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Notch on bolt head

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DeeCeeTee View Drop Down
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    Posted: November 06 2017 at 7:10am
Hi Guys. I am new to No 1 Mk3*s and in pursuit of minimilizing the head space I ordered several head bolts from Liberty Tree and some are notched and some are not. What is the deal with the notches? The ones with out the notches seem to be very tight and do not 'clock' correctly. What is the deal with bolts marked DP? I have one of those also. Can you help me? Thanks.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote A square 10 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November 06 2017 at 7:44pm
the DP marked is "drill purpose" only but i would not think it would affect the use of a bolt head if it headspaced correctly , 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Shamu Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November 07 2017 at 5:24am
I'd honestly not use the DP stamped ones. See if they'll swap them for non DP.
Can you show a pic of this "notch"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bear43 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November 07 2017 at 6:01am
Are you referring to notched and non-notched like the ones in the following picture? If so, the notched one was an earlier design meant to facilitate removal of the striker. Since that was deemed unnecessary eventually the non-notched design came about. They don't necessarily interchange either. I have found that non-notched bolt heads tend not to work on earlier bolt bodies and I have seen notched bolt heads that wouldn't turn into a later bolt body. You just have to keep at it until you find one that works with your bolt body. Also, please do not use a DP marked bolt head. They were marked DP for a reason, don't risk your life with DP marked pressure bearing parts.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Shamu Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November 07 2017 at 9:05am
Well I'll be. . .
learn summat every day round here.Thumbs Up
Don't shoot till you see the whites of their thighs. (Unofficial motto of the Royal Air Force)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DeeCeeTee Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November 07 2017 at 9:09am
Hi, Thanks for the reply. The original bolt/bolt head that came with the rifle has a notch in it and the replacement bolt/bolt head that I ordered from Liberty Tree does not and the bolt and the Cocking Piece have DP stamped on them, not the bolt head. Here are pictures of the two bolts. Any help on the letters/symbols on the bolt heads would be wonderful. Or is there a place to go on the web that explains the manufacturers stamps on the web?   
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DeeCeeTee Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November 07 2017 at 9:14am

Here are some more pictures. I did not know how to attach multiple photos.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DeeCeeTee Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November 07 2017 at 9:24am
Bear43,
     The silver headbolt is .643" and the blue headbolt is .634". The blue bolt/headbolt combo close on NG and do not close on the FIELD. I have not tried on the okie headspace gauges yet. I thought if I put silver headbolt on my bolt I would close the headspace down by .009" and be back in the G-NG area. When I tried it the silver bolthead was really tight when screwed in and I would have had to use some muscle to get it to align (clock) at 1200 for installing it. So i stopped and wrote in. Thanks again for the info and thoughts.
   DeeCeeTee
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Canuck Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November 07 2017 at 11:06am
I had no idea a notched bolt head for the #1 rifle even existed. Thanks for enlightening us, Bear!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Zed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November 07 2017 at 12:08pm
I had noticed the notch on a couple of the bolt head's that I have for the No1 rifle. I did no the reason for it. So thank you Bear! it's nice to learn something new.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bear43 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November 07 2017 at 1:03pm
Glad to be of some help! Stuff like this has to be shared about so we don't lose it. Thumbs Up
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Shamu Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November 07 2017 at 1:54pm
I'd be really, really nervous about using those DP marked parts.
Seriously how do you know they aren't out of gauge, or haven't been softened for example?
Don't shoot till you see the whites of their thighs. (Unofficial motto of the Royal Air Force)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bear43 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November 07 2017 at 6:22pm
DeeCeeTee, I think you are overthinking the headspace. Do not go by Go/No Go, go only by the Field gauge and only use the proper military field gauge. If you were using SAAMI spec gauges, they are all wrong for these rifles. Also, the Go/No Go is only used for fitting barrels while the Field is used to check serviceability. So first, get the Okie gauges. Second, return those DP parts to Liberty Tree, do not use any pressure bearing DP parts including bolt body and head. Even the DP cocking piece raises overall safety concerns. We will help you get this sorted, just take your time in all of this.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DeeCeeTee Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November 07 2017 at 10:16pm
Hi Bear43,
     I will follow your advice and send the DP bolt assy back and ask for a non-DP one. I had ordered a set of the Okie gauges and they just showed up yesterday, I will try those on my original bolt and let you know. I also ordered 4 bolt heads to try and find a longer one, they are in the mail right now. Right now I am shooting military surplus brass, but plan to reload as I accumulate my brass.  Is headspace more critical on military ammo or reloads? Or am I being OCD about the issue.
   Thanks, Dave
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Shamu Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November 08 2017 at 5:14am
H/S is about longer brass life.

I think you are being a little OCD with it. Its a simple pass/fail option. Bolt closes on an 0.074" FIELD = FAIL, everything else = GOOD.

To put it into perspective I'd rather have a non DP that just barely passes than a DP that passes with flying colors.
Don't shoot till you see the whites of their thighs. (Unofficial motto of the Royal Air Force)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Zed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November 08 2017 at 11:41am
Shamu; I think you've got it the wrong way around! 
If the bolt closes on the "Field" gauge it's a FAIL. Because head space is over 0,074". 
If it does not close on the  "Field" gauge the the head space is GOOD, because it's less than the 0,074" limit.
The 0,064 No Go is only really useful if changing a barrel or new bolt body.

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