How To: Inspect cases |
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DairyFarmer
Senior Member Joined: July 19 2014 Location: In The South Status: Offline Points: 555 |
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Posted: August 10 2014 at 11:36pm |
Most of these steps can be done before and/or after you have cleaned and resized your cases. It all depends on how you like to do your reloading.
Remember to keep your cases in batches as you may find that a problem with one case may be present in more cases in that batch. Especially relevant when cases get used more and more times. Batch you cases by calibre, manufacturer, times loaded and specific load. You need to check the outside of the case for any damage that occurred from firing. In fact this should be done as soon as you eject the case after firing. Sometimes it is not practical, i.e. while hunting. This is a very important step as it can save both your life and the life of your firearm. The first place I look at is the head of the case. Now some idiot decided that a case goes (from top to bottom) Mouth, Neck, Shoulder, Body and then Head. The head is the part that normally is stamped with the calibre, hence the name "head stamp". A whole lot can be told by a quick look and feel of the head. Look at the head stamp. Bad head spacing and pressure can deform the head stamp. The primer also tells a story. Deformed primers, loose primers, punctured primers and abnormal strikes are all warming signs that something is wrong. Pressure, head spacing, too soft a primer, warn primer pocket and a faulty firing pin. Next is to look at the rim, the part around the head that the extractor grips. Look out for gouges caused by the extractor. And then above the rim, this is normally where head separation takes place. Look out for cracks. Next we work our way up the case, up the shoulder to the neck and finally the mouth. Look of dents, bulges, crack, stretch marks, rough patches and donuts. These can be caused by everything from worn out brass, to head spacing, to too much oil left over from cleaning, to dirt, to over/under lubing while reloading. I good idea is to have a form fired case for your firearm that you keep as a reference. Anything that doesn't right probably isn't. And lastly we need to inspect the inside if the case. Did you bring back half the shooting range with you? Is the case one of Satan’s Berdan primer cases? Yes the one with two flash holes instead of one. And last of all check the inside wall of cracks. What?? Yes you need to buy a very small and very expensive HD camera. Just kidding. A paperclip will work, or make your own tool. I took a braising rod. Bent the top into a handle. The tip I ground down to a sharp point and bent it 90 degrees. Use this to feel inside the case for any ridges. All of the above can be done before resizing and deprimimg. While lubing my cases I have a good "feel" of the case. Then, after depriming, a check in the flash hole and another look around the case. Clean and/or tumble. Then one last look. We will look into primer pockets, flash holes and case length in the next "How To" regarding case preparation. Just remember: If it doesn't look right, it probably isn't. |
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Shamu
Admin Group Logo Designer / Donating Member Joined: April 25 2007 Location: MD, USA. Status: Offline Points: 17603 |
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Here you go, inside & outside just before it cuts loose!
This is a little further up the case length than normal, probably because its a nickle-plated case. |
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Don't shoot till you see the whites of their thighs. (Unofficial motto of the Royal Air Force)
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DairyFarmer
Senior Member Joined: July 19 2014 Location: In The South Status: Offline Points: 555 |
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Thanks for the pics.
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