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I need a safety spring, what kind?

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Shamu View Drop Down
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    Posted: April 03 2008 at 6:21am
I now have the Cad Technik mount in my hot, sweaty hands, and, just like they say you need to replace the safety spring to get the safe to not bind up when the mount is attached.
Can someone please tell me the difference between a "flat" & "box" type?
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lithgow Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April 03 2008 at 9:02am
I take it you are refering to the No1 Mk111 rifle.
There are two types of spring that I have seen. One is the traditional "Dumbell" and the other is a flat spring like a slightly heavier clock spring with parallel sides. It almost looks home made.
This is probably the sort you want by the sounds of things.
You could always make one.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Shamu Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April 03 2008 at 10:07am
I'm sorry I should have been clearer.
Its a #4 Mk1*, Savage made.
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote A square 10 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April 03 2008 at 11:00am
i have used these they are nice mounts , but id installed them on my single shot 22cal trainers and found the safety insignificant at the time so i cant help
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Shamu Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April 05 2008 at 9:54pm
I tried hand fitting the mount just to see if I could determine what the problem without the safety spring might be. Here is what I discovered.
 
For anyone not familliar with the mount it uses the ejector screw & the safety retaining screw as it's attachment points. One of the published advantages of this method is that you can leave the rear sight in place as it does not use the pivot for it as an attachment point.
 
The mount is in 3 pieces. A block to attache to the reciever left hand flat wall.  A piece that is "L" sectioned to give a flat horizontal mounting surface over the breech/magazine area.  A rail that is bolted to the flat horizontal surface.
 
The installation instructions are a bit vague in several areas, so after reading them several times I started the install.
 
These are the results, together with some things I discovered that the instructions neglect to mention.
 
First raise the rear sight & remove the bolt.
Now remove the ejector screw & the safety retaining screw, taking care to not dislodge the safety spring which is free once the bolt has been removed,  & put them somewhere safe as you'll need them to convert the rifle back to original condition.
 
The mounting block has 2 holes for the longer replacment hex headed bolts, unlike the factory parts these are identical in size & shape. The mount block thickness seems to have been designed this way.
 
Insert & hand tighten both the new bolts with the block in position. Once this is done check that the block is square to the reciever side & the top is horizontal with the rifle level. If it is canted there are 2 very small bolts under the 45 degree flange where the block matches the junction of the big vertical & small horizontal faces of the reciever left side wall. If it isn't then adjust these to make the block parallell both horizontally & vertically.
(this part is not in the instructions)
 
Once this is all lined up re-install and check for function of the bolt & safety after re-installing them also. NOTE: the safety will tighten up as the bolt is tightened, you'll need to check this frequently.
 
Now the "L" piece is attached to the rail. this is secured with the two big thumbscrew bolts that are supposed to be usable by hand. They aren't. You'll need to use a hex key to tighten them enough.
 
At this point the mount is assembled to the rifle. There are 2 bolts attaching the rail to the flat horizontal surface. One is a round hole & the other is oval to allow for windage adjustments in the mount. Take care that the rail's rear face does not extend out behind the "L" piece. If it does you need to reverse it as it will foul the battle sight on the rifle & prevent mounting the unit.
 
Here's where it gets interesting! There are 3 threaded holes in the "L" plate, and 3 holes in the rail. IF you install the rail so that all 3 holes line up the rail will be backwards, & foul. The rail has to be installed so the middle holes do NOT line up. There is no 3rd bolt with the kit & when I called Brownells' tech supoort line I was told this is the correct way to install, & that the middle holes are not supposed to line up! Huh?
 
Once everything is hand alligned & tightened remove the complete assembly from the rifle. re install the bolt, and lower the rear sight again. Now apply loctite (blue is reccomended) to the bolts going into the reciever & retighten. Check the bolt & safety function again.
 
Once I'd done this (after a few false starts because of the spotty instructions) I could find absolutely nothing wrong with the operation or function of the safety, even with the "wrong" spring!
 
The only thing I did note  is that with the existing Savage safe the lever itself is hard to move from "Fire" to "Safe" because it is flush with the rear face of the mounting block. If I used something to help grip the lever the movment was full in both directions, the detents engaged at both ends of the movment & the internal parts moved fully "IN" & "OUT", & the striker & bolt were fully locked on 'SAFE" & free moving with no interference on "FIRE".
 
Based on this I think that the only problem with the Savage type spring & lever is the positioning of the lever in "FIRE" & that it's another case of lawyer-proofing in the directions.
 
If anyone here has a different experience pleas feel free to correct my findings.
 
 
PitBull, spawn of Rottie!
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