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Lead projectiles ???

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evanguy View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote evanguy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December 25 2015 at 6:45am
i really like fast powders depending on what im doing, if im just squirrel/rabbit hunting, or shooting cans or playing around at 100m ill use fast powders since i only have to load 7gr per load and that gives me 1000 reloads per pound, only cast with fast powders (90-300gr bullets)

but when target shooting or coyote hunting and letting my kids shoot my rifles i use H-4895 and cast or jacketed, since it can be loaded to 40gr for a factory load power or down to 28gr for a nice 1750fps mild recoil.

i cast all my bullets large, i where i make my own molds they often are oval around .313-.314, they might get up to .315 in some molds but using near pure lead she fits without issue down the barrel

as for fillers, i dont use any, BUT i do buy powders that are known to be position insensitive, "flawless ignition with all types of primers and is not effected by powder position in large cases" is a quote from hodgdons website on titegroup

such as titegroup and alot of other fast powders


i find for loads 700-1300fps i use fast pistol powders, and for 1300-2500fps i use H-4895 (love this powder and easy to get around here)

fast pistol powder spike fast in pressure when you try and climb in the FSP,  but if your shooting around the 1000-1200fps range they are worth it since you can use about 3-4 times less powder per load, dont try and push them above 1600, thats going to be close to 13-15gr pistol powder

when i cast my own bullets and use pistol powders i can fire my 303 with 90-300gr bullets at 750-1300fps making 112ft-lb - 1100ft-lb    for a wopping 8 CANADIAN cents a round,

 .22lf cost me 8-12 cents each and they have about 120ftlb

and for filler, its not needed but some people like to use it, i read almost everywhere on earth that you do not use solid fillers with cases with a shoulder, its GREAT for straight wall cases like the 45-70, perfect for it with blackpowder or smokeless,  also the weight of the filler has to be added to the bullet weight for powder calculations

with slower powders and less then half full cases then YES use them, with slower powders you always want a good volume of powder in the case, but with the fastest pistol powders you can use a 3006 case with 1gr in it, it all lights at the same time, thats what you want when using fast pistol powders,  slower powders thats how you will blow your self up.



if you shoot lead and your not a member here http://www.castbulletassoc.org/forum/ you need to sign up and read for days lol.  also ED harris is a member on it too.
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DairyFarmer View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DairyFarmer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December 25 2015 at 6:46pm

You have to be careful with small amounts of powder regardless of the rate of burn.

 
You can get "detonation" rather than burning. This happens when there is a large surface area of powder exposed to the flash. Pressure builds far to quickly. In a normal round there is the flash that sets off a burning chain reaction in the powder and the pressure builds exponentially. There is no sudden spike.
 
Some people use TP as a filler. It is relativly light and can fill an area without being dense.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Von Gruff Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December 25 2015 at 8:39pm
I had Tom at Accurate make this mould for me for my Lee Speed and Martini Enfield
 
I have a gas check maker and with .014 alloy make all my own checks for everything under 1900fps but over that velocity have found that the copper checks work best. My alloy is one I mixed to use the different alloys I had with a 47-33-20 (ww-pure lead-lino) and have absolutely zero problems with lerading or any other type of fouling. I lube with a 60/40 bees wax/Vaseline lube 
I have found that Blue Dot is the very best powder out of the many that I have tried in the 303 with 17.3gn pushing the 190gn bullet to 1800fps. Blue dot is not position sensitive and does not need a filler . I have put many cans of blue dot through the 400 LS, 303, 7x57, 6.5G and 20 VT. It is a great powder for everything from the little fireball sized case up to the 404 Jeffery that a friend uses .
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote White Rhino Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December 25 2015 at 11:49pm
I like this !!!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Smokey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January 29 2016 at 3:32pm
I can't talk to the .303 British (yet) But the NOE316299 sized to 0.315 gives excellent results in a really beat-up (and repaired by me) Finned M91 using XMR5744. The bullets are dropped of wheelweights right out of the mold into a deep container of cold water. Per Quickload, I'm getting 2100fps with the 31 inch barrel. Groove diameter is 0.314. Shooting offhand I get 4 inch groups at 100 yards (the rifle holds very steady).
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Von Gruff View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Von Gruff Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January 29 2016 at 5:39pm
I have done my load testing for a better more suitble hunting load than the 1800fps I get with the Blue Dot and using H335 I load 36.4gn under the same 190gn bullet for 2200fps and decent 150-200yd hunting capability.
I cast up a great heap of the 316299 bullets and they were decently accurate and a great plinking bullet, but I like the meplat of my Acc 315-190N more for a hunting bullet and that is the essence of what I have my rifles for, even though much more lead is shot at paper than meat.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Smokey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January 30 2016 at 4:43am
My water-dropped WW slugs are essentially hardened, non-expanding solids. I recovered one that penetrated about 2 feet of stacked wood and imbedded in a log. It was not really deformed. There's a procedure for softening the forward portion of the bullet I haven't tried. You stand the bullets partially in water to preserve the part you want to remain hard. The exposed part is heated with an acetylene torch until a slight change in appearance occurs. You immediately move to the next bullet and let the heated one cool. If you delay the bullet will melt.

The heated bullets, after air-cooling, are supposed to be soft enough to expand at fairly low velocities (1000fps or less) right down to the "water line". I have a good supply of soft points so there's been no need to anneal bullets yet.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gun Nut 4 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January 30 2016 at 5:20am
I'm not a fan of fast burning powders, so I stick to the medium burning stuff. These are a couple of my hunting loads, with their respective rifles. The 205 gr is sized to .314, the 185 gr runs around .312.
If you are having trouble with accuracy and grouping you're probably best to have the bore of your rifle slug to determine it groove diameter.  I've found using Cream Of Wheat (COW) helps to cut down on leading problems, how ever it does up pressures . I do use gas checks on hard lead bullets, if you are staying near 1500 fps and below, wheels weight lead maybe hard enough.

P1914 rifle hunting load.

205 gr GC ( No.2 -lead mixture)    IMR 4895   37.5 grs         About 2000 fps

#4 Mk1
185 gr GC (No.2 - lead mixture)     H 335       33 gr + COW
 Turned in an impressive group with on a horizontal line about 1½ above the horizontal line    passing through the center of the target. Two landed in the 3" circle directly above center.  

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Von Gruff Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January 30 2016 at 8:23pm
In my 7x57 I have a two part bullet with a hard shank and a soft nose that I push to 2415fps over 39gn H4350 and excellent accuracy. A 5 shot group in an inch to an inch and a quarter is what I expect from this load. This is the bullet and the expansion I get from the 50-50 (ww-Pb) nose on the lino shank.
This will kill out to as far as I am prepared to shoot game.
 
 
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vegas303 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote vegas303 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March 31 2016 at 1:02pm
i get 30 cal gas checks off ebay for 23 bucks free shipping per 1000

http://www.ebay.com/itm/30-Caliber-Gas-Checks-COPPER-1000-PCS-30-308-30-06-7-62-/291720092174?hash=item43ebdf5a0e:g:nOkAAOSwv0tVB3cE




there is al-uminium ones for 17.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gun Nut 4 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August 24 2016 at 3:09pm
I use cast bullets in all my rifles. I tend to shy away from fast burning powders, preferring the medium burning stuff. IMR/H-4895, and H-335. I use either 185 or 205 GC bullet, which I drive somewhere around 2000 fps. I usually keep the powder charge within the 30 to 33 grain range, and top it up with Cream of Wheat, which reduces leading. When that 205 grain bullet passed through the chest cavity of whitetail it literally explosive both lungs. The trick with using cast is to get the right diameter bullet for your .303. There are a fair amount variance in groove diameter in .303's. The Pattern 1914 seem to run around .312 to .3135, so  if you own one you need a .314 GC bullet. The No.1 Mk III, run all over the map from .311 up to .3135 and sometimes smaller or larger. The No.4 Mk I, run pretty much around .311. One other point if you're switching from copper jackets to cast, and hoping to get reliable accuracy, you need to deep clean your bore to ensure you remove any copper residue from the lands and grooves. Good Luck!
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