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No 4 MK1 - Some Basic General Questions

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turp182 View Drop Down
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    Posted: September 24 2017 at 9:16am
OK, I've started cleaning the metal on my #4 MK! and it's coming along nicely (quality synthetic gun oil and 0000 steel wool, markings becoming clearer).  Ran a snake down the barrel about 15 times.  Ordered linseed oil and a bore light, first experience with older firearms.

I found the site's search feature a bit difficult (mulitiple word searches with quotes didn't work) so I'm going to ask some basic questions (might make a good sticky post for newbies such as myself).

Wood treatment

Other than linseed oil, is there anything else I should do to the wood?  Should I remove it (hesitant, but one top piece is loose at the bolt end)?  Use a cleaner of some sort?

Butt Stock a Bit Loose

How do I tighten the butt stock?  I believe it is a long screwdriver into the butt plate movable bit.  Just want to verify before opening that up.

Snap Caps

I found these on Amazon but with mixed reviews, is there a better option?


Magzine and clips

What's the best place to obtain these?

Ammunition

What would you recommend regarding ammo?  Where to source from?

I recived a few other firearms from my grandfather's collection, I'll snap a photo some time, there are a couple of other cool items from the 1940's.

Thanks,
Jason
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englishman_ca View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote englishman_ca Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September 29 2017 at 5:44am
Boiled linseed oil is the correct method to refresh. I restore some pretty beat up and dirty rifles. I have a number of techniques from mild to aggressive to bring the wood back. 99% of the time, linseed oil and elbow grease is all that is needed.

If the wood is loose, take it off and see as to why. Get yourself a decent set of hollow ground screwdrivers as regular mechanic's blades tend to chew up the screw slots. The type with the replaceable magnetic tips is good.
There are simple fixes for loose hand guards.

Butt stock can be tightened with a long screwdriver up through the butt trap. Front wood should be removed first in case the bolt tip protrudes through the back of the butt socket. If it does it might press into the front wood as it is tightened, compress and crack the fore arm.
Removing the wood will also give you a chance to clean and oil all metal things under the wood line.

Snap caps are great, but the firing mechanism is pretty robust and will tolerate dry firing. I wouldn't worry too much about it unless you were to dry fire a lot, a lot, a lot.

Magazine and stripper clips? Buy a good used mill spec mag. Stay away from new made ones, they are lower quality. E.g. Promag fit and function but they are cheap and nasty. 
Stripper clips, best is to find well used and worn ones. There are some new condition ones on the market. New made for the Italian Navy and have a phosphated finish. They are stiff and the cartridges are gripped too tightly. The phosphate surface does not lend itself to allowing the cases to slide through easily, they are just too stiff when new.

Ammo? Try to stay away from mil surplus stuff. It can be corrosive and would rust the bore if not cleaned properly. Any modern commercial ammo would be fine. Different rifles prefer different brands, bullet weights, shapes. Different ammo = different point of impact.
Any brand would be good unless you intend to reload, in which case there is a whole debate about who makes the best brass.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Shamu Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September 29 2017 at 6:14am
Ditch the bore snake & get a good cleaning rod. Bore snakes are fine for a day in the field but they don't really deep clean. They DO cause cord wear on the bore though.
Raw Linseed oil was the original finish, but many now use boiled.
The stock may well swell & tighten as you oil, so try that first. If you must tighten remove the internal washer first so you can get to the bolt head.
Snap caps are a waste of time & money, the collar on the striker stops the pin anyway.
Magazine was issued one per rifle with the No4, & its designed that way. If you must try Liberty tree or e-bay, but understand they're removable but not freely interchangeable.
Chargers are on e-bay too or liberty tree again.

Best for price, quality & reloadable ammo is "Prvi Partizan" 180 gr.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Zed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September 29 2017 at 11:10am
Ditto all of the above. 
Regarding the charger clips; definitely avoid the horrible later production . The wartime ones are more sprung steel and the ammo will smoothly slide into the mag. The newer ones, as mentioned above will actually scratch the cases they are really that bad.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Shamu Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September 29 2017 at 2:09pm
I just discovered this today, so I'll share.

There are several versions of the chargers what you're looking for are the "Mk 4" with the oval hole adjacent to the spring loaded finger. The versions with the round hole are much tighter & harder to strip rounds from. (The top one in this pic.)
The teardropl Vs round "pips" don't matter that much, but I find the (maybe Indian-made) teardrop is a little better.


These horrors are the ones to avoid. Grey rough enterprising & marked as "VI" & a couple of letters, apparently at random. They are rumored to be Italian or Greek & you'll find lots of them on e-bay.



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Canuck Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September 29 2017 at 2:50pm
Those Greek/Italian chargers can be made to work smoothly with some emery cloth and then polishing compound. I've 'fixed' many of them in the past. But I agree with Shamu unless you want to have to work the GM VI units as I described.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Stanforth Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September 30 2017 at 6:23am
As far as snap caps and dry firing goes... Part of the procedure of the British military when proving a rifle 'Clear' is to dry fire it. I personally don't do it and it was a point of contention on my RCO course for military ranges some 30 years ago that I flatly refused to do it.
 
My answer to snap caps is to de-cap a couple of fired cases , fill the primer hole with epoxy resin and leave them a week to harden.
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