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Replacement Bolt Assembly

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AJ Dragon View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AJ Dragon Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March 10 2016 at 4:24pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Shamu Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March 11 2016 at 5:40am
Yes they'll work as well. The critical dimension is the 0.074".
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AJ Dragon Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March 13 2016 at 8:34am
Hi
 
Well I got the bolt assembly in, and I seem to have a problem.  I can put the bolt in, calk it and then rotate the assembly to lock it just fine but when I go to try and rotate it without it calking " it wont rotate.  Would not having the trigger and trigger guard be the problem?
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AJ Dragon Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March 13 2016 at 9:43am
Hi
 
Never mind I figured it out, every thing is nice and tight on the bolt assembly and the calking piece needed to be broken in.  I just wasn't applying enough pressure to cause the calking piece to move backwards to allow the bolt assembly to rotate. 
 
On another note, only one locking lug is making contact with the bolt assembly fully locked and cocked.  So the next step will be to get the gauges and stone so I can properly seat the bolt.  The gauges were easy to find but I have know idea what to look for when it comes to the stone.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Zed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March 13 2016 at 11:33am
Here is a link to one supplier for Arkansas stone. The triangular shape is good for this job. The one I have is square section; so I wrapped some thin tin can metal around the bolt next to the lug to avoid scuffing it.
You need to get the very fine one and use oil with it.

http://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/Triangle-Arkansas-File-P376C105.aspx

The figure showing the lugs and receiver in an earlier post seems incorrect to me; the long lug is on the right hand side of the receiver when the bolt is closed and the short one is on the left hand side.

You need to check that with your new bolt you have some margin to work with. Which is why the 3 gauge set is useful.
 Luckily for me the new bolt would not close on the 70 thou gauge by a reasonable margin, so with the Field gauge limit being 74 thou; I knew I had a couple of thou to work with; without getting too close to the Field limit.
My original bolt would stop the on Field gauge about 2mm from full closure when measured at the wrist. 
Which was getting too close for comfort.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Shamu Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March 13 2016 at 11:53am
If you pull the trigger & hold it (or push UP on the sear inside the receiver) as you close the bolt it wont cock.

The drawing of the bolt is correct, it just looks odd because of the angle & the fact the bolt handle is raised, turning the bolt body.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Zed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March 14 2016 at 8:27am
It was the description of lug A and B that appear to be inversed. The long lug is on the RH side when the bolt is closed.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Shamu Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March 14 2016 at 12:41pm
You're right, I was busy looking at the image & missed it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AJ Dragon Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March 15 2016 at 8:09pm
Hi
 
Thank you for the link and I will be getting the gauges next month along with the stone file.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote halsem Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March 19 2016 at 7:25am
I am also looking at headspace.  I pull the trigger when closing the bolt to release tension on the bolt. 
I fear that the tension to close the bolt, without doing this, would prevent me from feeling resistance on the gauge.
Is there a problem with this approach?
I a concerned because the bolt 'almost' closes on the field gauge.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AJ Dragon Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March 30 2016 at 10:40am
Hi
 
Will this stone also work or is it too fine of a stone.
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Zed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March 30 2016 at 11:30am
That's a similar type of stone  to the one that I use. A very fine stone will give you a polished finish; and not remove too much !
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Shamu Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March 30 2016 at 1:28pm
Probably fine, "slower finer & smoother" with minimum removal of material is the goal.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AJ Dragon Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April 05 2016 at 5:18pm
Hi
 
I got the gauges today, I still need to get the file to seat the bolt properly but here are some pictures of the bolt fitment as is.
 
With out any gauges.
 
With Go gauge
 
With No Go Gauge
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Shamu Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April 06 2016 at 8:36am
It looks to me like the rifle passes with the NO GO gauge?
Maybe its the angle of the picture though.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AJ Dragon Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April 06 2016 at 9:56am
Hi
 
I found this YouTube video showing how to use the gauges.
 
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