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R-P brass

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Shamu View Drop Down
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    Posted: August 16 2015 at 8:35am
Reloaded exactly 3 times. Neck sized only, annealed. Minimum charge weight of H335 used 150 Gr pill @ 2450 FPS!

Case head separation Angry

 

I swear this stuff is now a poor as Winchester used to be!Dead


It's not the rifle PPU/nny & HXP run perfectly after 6 reloads.


PitBull, spawn of Rottie!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Canuck Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August 16 2015 at 9:41am
Thanks for the heads' up report, Shamu.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MJ11 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August 16 2015 at 9:43am
So familiar. I often have to toss 4~5 out of every ten.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SW28fan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August 16 2015 at 11:17am
I wonder if U.S. brands are now buying S&B brass with their headstamp
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote paddyofurniture Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August 16 2015 at 12:12pm
Not good.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Zed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August 16 2015 at 12:27pm
I've just sorted through and thrown out a lot of Remington cases because they are showing the ring prior to seperation. May have about 4 reload's with being neck sized and annealed twice.
Don't have much choice of ammo here so just have to go with what we've got!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DairyFarmer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August 16 2015 at 9:32pm
I don't think annealing will effect the head separation as you are annealing the neck. Maybe you are getting the cases too hot and the heat is reaching the end of the case. Try 3 rounds of new cases. Reload by neck sizing only. Fire them off until you see signs of head separation. If you get more reloads before signs of separation then you know where the problem is.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Zed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August 17 2015 at 10:11am
I only anneal the neck area, by spinning the neck of case in a blowtorch flame; using an adaptor socket on a battery operated drill. As soon as the colour change reach's the shoulder, it gets flicked into a bucket of water.
I have recently improved the head space of my No4 rifle so I am hoping it will increase the life span of the brass
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Shamu Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August 17 2015 at 1:39pm
Pretty much the same here. I use an electric screwdriver with a chuck adapter as its more consistent at low speed.
The case is shielded by the deep well socket & I use the temp indicating stick to stop at 450 just behind the neck. (Usually 5~6 secs with a very low flame). The SS bowl is normally full of water, not brass because I drop the cases into it to quench fast before the heat can travel back in any quantity to the harder rear section.





I don't think I'm overdoing anything partly because of the shielding & temp indicator, but mainly because the same technique works perfectly with HXP & PPU/nny brass.

Sadly its just rubbish brass.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Canuck Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August 17 2015 at 2:23pm
Nice set-up, I like it. Think I'll copy your method Shamu if you don't mind?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DairyFarmer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August 18 2015 at 4:53am
You don't need to quench brass. It can cool on its own.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Shamu Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August 18 2015 at 5:14am
Canuck:
Parts list:
Stand.
3" "Y" junction
31/2" wall flange.
(doesn't need to be waterproof so they are actually assembled reversed & glued together.)
Wood base from scrap.
thin sheet plastic for holder of temp sticks.
scrounged food mixer bowl.
(Any metal container will do.)

holder (for .303 Brit, change sizes as needed for other calibers.
Kobalt deep well 14mm socket.
31/2" X 1/4-20 carriage bolt.
1/4 washers.
1/4 fender washers
lock washer
1/4 hex nut.

1/4" chuck adapter for hex shaft electric screwdriver from Home Despot.

"Templistick" heat indicator crayon. 2 temps 450 for case shoulder, 600 for case mouth. It depends which caliber I'm annealing which one I use where. I only use it at the beginning to set up time/temp, after that I use the same time for every case. Flame as low as you can get it & about 5~7 secs a case depending on flame & brass thickness.

Match the carriage bolt to the socket by head size, it stops in the neck portion of the socket to limit case insertion.

I do water drop, but not as part of the annealing just so I don't have hot brass everywhere as I do it indoors with cats & dogs watching.



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Canuck Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August 18 2015 at 8:33am
Excellent, thank you!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gun Nut 4 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December 08 2015 at 3:26pm
Your shooting these out of a No.4 Mark I rifle aren't you? Looking at the necks of the cartridge and the amount of blow back on them. I'm only guessing but you may have an excessive head spacing problem. What is the number on your bolt head 0,1,2 or 3. See if you can find another bolt head with the next number higher. The R-P cases are heavier walled that the nny cases they don't stretch as much and therefore fracture. If you are firing these out of a No.1 Mark III or Pattern 1914, then I agree the cases must be the problem.  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Shamu Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December 09 2015 at 6:47am
It passes the NOGO gauge at 0.067" & the problem is only happening with R-P brass.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gun Nut 4 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December 09 2015 at 9:49am
The  No. 4 Rifle Bolthead  Sizes run as follows:

0 - .620 to .625
1 - .625 to .630
2 - .630 to .635
3 - .635 to .635

So what did you say was the number on your bolthead? See I was dump, and didn't measure for the No Go and just substitute the next bolthead, and the bolt had no problem closing. You might she if you can find someone who has a rifle with the next size up and try it. You might be surprised. I thing on my one rifle I went from 0 up to a 2, so the head space was quite excessive. An increase of .003 of an inch is not much but it may cure your blow back, and prevent the cartridge head fractures.


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