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R-P brass

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Zed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December 09 2015 at 11:42am
I believe Shamu's rifle is a No4Mk2 which are generally the best quality of the No4 series as they were not war time production. So I would expect the chamber to better than the majority of No4Mk1's.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Shamu Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December 09 2015 at 1:03pm
Yes its one of the "RAF contract" 1955 Fazakerlys with the infamously tight chamber & bore.Cool
Gratuitous pic.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote evanguy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December 09 2015 at 1:58pm
Wow! Now thats a rifle.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Shamu Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December 10 2015 at 5:49am
I got it still in the mummy wrap. So its as close to a "new unissued, unfired" rifle as its possible to get.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Muddly Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May 09 2016 at 9:51am
Quenching is necessary with brass. Its the opposite of steel.
Quenching hardens steel, but softens brass. Also, allowing the cases to air cool allows the heat to travel to the rest of the case and possibly effect areas you don't want it to.
I heat my brass until I get a bluish tint and then quench. Heating it red ruins them.I also anneal prior to residing.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Shamu Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May 09 2016 at 1:10pm
Old post but new reply so I'll explain.
It gauges to just pass an "Okie" 0.067" NO GO, (bolt handle is about 1/4" shy of closed.) so I'll guess H/S is real close to 0.066".
Its a #3 bolt head, & the original factory issued one as it was a mummy when I got it.
PPU/nny & HXP brass run through it without problems so I'm pretty sure the rifle is good, but not the brass.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Zed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May 09 2016 at 1:19pm
I'll second the fact that RP brass is not great! and getting worse!
My No4Mk1/2 has a No3 head and head space is just on the NO-GO 0,067" thou. I inspect the brass after every firing and trim, anneal etc.
 But recently I've had a batch of RP that split lengthways down the neck, because it's so thin (when compared to PPU).
Also had a case fall in two as the classic seperation; but ejected ok, it fell apart as I picked it up afterwards.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DairyFarmer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May 09 2016 at 9:16pm
Brass anneals at 345C but needs minutes at that temperature with no variance (i.e. air flow not at 345). By increasing the temperature to around 400C you can quickly anneal the top of the case without much heat transfer to the lower parts of the case. The heat transfer directly below the area of annealing (we talking mm here) will not reach the 400 degree mark, nor will it reach the 345 degree mark for a long enough period.
The annealing process of brass is not affected by quenching or the lack of quenching.  The temperature and duration of temperature dictates annealing of brass. Quenching is a matter of preference or convenience.
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