1918 BSA Enfield |
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petebwity
Groupie Joined: January 04 2012 Location: WI Status: Offline Points: 10 |
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Posted: January 04 2012 at 8:50am |
Newbie here. I have a 1918 BSA Enfield but that is all I know about it. I have taken a bunch of pics this rifle has more hieroglyphs than an egypt tomb. I tried uploading them but get an error. Let me know what I am doing wrong. The Pic size is less than 5Mb and is jpeg but still wont upload. I really want to know what all the markings mean.
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muffett.2008
Senior Member Joined: December 09 2011 Location: scone. nsw Status: Offline Points: 751 |
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Try loading only a couple, we don't mind if the display is spread. You may be just exceeding what it can handle.
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Eric
Admin Group Moderator Joined: October 23 2005 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 724 |
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There was an issue with the upload utility for the site. I think I've fixed it. Try uploading your pics again. Sorry about the trouble.
Eric |
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petebwity
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petebwity
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petebwity
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petebwity
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petebwity
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petebwity
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Let me know if I need to post more. There are more markings on the barrel, the trigger guard, the bolt and the clip but they were harder to photograph but i could try again if need be.
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Alan de Enfield
Senior Member Joined: November 01 2009 Location: Eastern England Status: Offline Points: 241 |
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1st Picture :
England = US Import mark prior to 1968 showing country of origin I75117 = serial number The following markings are all UK civilian proof marks showing it was in use in the UK Civilian market prior to getting to the USA NP = Nitro Proof 2,22" = Cartridge length in inches 18 1/2 tons = proof pressure 303" = calibre
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petebwity
Groupie Joined: January 04 2012 Location: WI Status: Offline Points: 10 |
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Thank you so much for that info!! Can you tell where the gun was used? What does P.W. on the butt mean? What does Nitro Proof mean? I would like to know if this can is still able to be shot but I don't think its been touched in 50 years. I think there is suppose to be some kind of barrel cleaner and oiler for it at least that is what I think goes into the butt of the gun. Do you know of any place I could get those 2 pieces? also its missing the center bracket and the strap any idea where I could get replacements? Sorry for all the questions but it feel like I am unearthing a 100 year old puzzle and its been fun yet driving me crazy. By the way the pics looked much better when I uploaded them guess I will need to crop down the size if I need to upload more. Thanks again!!
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petebwity
Groupie Joined: January 04 2012 Location: WI Status: Offline Points: 10 |
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Sorry the last post should say " I want to know if this gun can still be shot"
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LE Owner
Senior Member Joined: December 04 2009 Status: Offline Points: 1047 |
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A friend has a very nicely made BSA 1918.
The machining, fitting of parts, and metal finish is the best I've seen of any MkIII* I've examined. The bluing is as good or better than that of a commercial sporting rifle of that era. Not knocking the OP's rifle, but the metal of the rifle my friend has shows a lot better workmanship.
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Tony
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You should be able to use the rifle ok BUT for your own safety I would suggest you get it checked over by a competent gunsmith. He can check headspace and look for any signs of damage to the action. Before you use it. It may cost you a few dollars but it's better than getting hurt.
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Rottie (PitBulls dad.)
“If electricity comes from electrons, does morality come from morons Born free taxed to death!!! |
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Shamu
Admin Group Logo Designer / Donating Member Joined: April 25 2007 Location: MD, USA. Status: Offline Points: 17603 |
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There aren't a lot of needed accessories for the Lee-Enfields, but here are most of them (excluding exotic armorer's tools you wouldn't be allowed to use anyway.)
The 2 circled items, a "pull through" & an "oil bottle" fill the space in the stock. If you roll & fold the pull through just right it fits neatly & stops the oil bottle rattling so the dastardly Hun can shoot at the sound. By all means collect them & put them in the butt trap for completeness, but never use them. Really, pull throughs & the use thereof is something you just don't want to get into. Depending on year you might have needed a brass or bakelite oil bottle & the kit comes with a piece of wire screen mesh also. If you think not using the pull through is important don't even think about the mesh! (Unless you like red faced sweaty RSM's bellowing at you from a range of about 3"~4") *Warning* Gratuitous RSM bawling out follows to add authentic flavour to the post. "You 'Orible little man! Why, oh why did Her Gracious Majesty the Queen allow such a person as you borrow one of her rifles to let you mess it up this 'orrribly? What do you think she was thinking when she did this? Her Majesty is a kindly soul, she doesn't require much of you, but even if you aren't asked to clean the rifle (or your brass) you might want to think about weeding the bleeding thing occasionally! *sorry, got a bit carried away, all in fun.* |
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Don't shoot till you see the whites of their thighs. (Unofficial motto of the Royal Air Force)
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LE Owner
Senior Member Joined: December 04 2009 Status: Offline Points: 1047 |
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Hesketh-Pritchard wrote that use of the pull through caused bore damage, and that sniper rifles should only be cleaned using a cleaning rod.
There were some rather extreme methods used to clean these rifles before effective solvents and bronze brushes came into common use. Cupro-Nickel fouling was so tough to remove that annealed iron brushes were sometimes used. A method suggested to armorers was to place a small bundle or thin iron wire in the loop of a cleaning rod, push it into the bore to fold the wire back then pull it backwards so the cut ends of the wire could dig into the fouling . Various non imbedding polishing compounds impregnated with solvents were sold to target shooters, these were much like the J B Bore Paste we know of today. The deep Enfield pattern rifling came in handy for more reasons than resisting cordite erosion. Rough or careless cleaning of rifle bores destroyed more barrels than any number of rounds fired.
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