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1949 No.4, Mk2

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devrep View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote devrep Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November 09 2020 at 7:07pm
60 year old Linspeed Oil that belonged to my dad.  refined BLO.  they still make this stuff.  best I've used and I've used about everything.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote devrep Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November 09 2020 at 7:11pm
used it on my 870 Police which had a thin poly finish originally.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote devrep Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November 09 2020 at 7:11pm
.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote A square 10 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November 10 2020 at 8:05am
thats about what i was imagining , i have a similar bottle from my father , ive used it sparingly as well as its the best i have ever found , 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Shamu Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November 10 2020 at 8:09am
I really like way just a trace of the stain remained, thats a sweet looking finish. Mines unstained & looks drab next to that!
Yes they were never "shiny".
Try burlap or Jute sacking as a rubbing abrasive.
Its even less harsh than steel wool & gives a really nice "eggshe!!" like finish.

Don't shoot till you see the whites of their thighs. (Unofficial motto of the Royal Air Force)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote devrep Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November 10 2020 at 9:02am
Originally posted by Shamu Shamu wrote:

I really like way just a trace of the stain remained, thats a sweet looking finish. Mines unstained & looks drab next to that!
Yes they were never "shiny".
Try burlap or Jute sacking as a rubbing abrasive.
Its even less harsh than steel wool & gives a really nice "eggshe!!" like finish.

man that rifle looks brand new, beautiful.  I tried the burlap to just dull the old urethane and it wouldn't even touch it.  I will try it to take the sheen off my new oil finish before I go to OOOO steel wool though.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote devrep Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November 10 2020 at 9:27am
so the process I used to remove the horrible finish installed by the previous owner may be interesting to some.

I have reason to believe that the polyurethane finish installed by the previous owner was fairly recently done.  for one thing there wasn't a mark on it, also it came off easier than I thought it would (still took some hours).  It was hardened though as I was not able to put fingernail marks in it.

I had to use N0. 2 steel wool to break the urethane.  it did a nice job of powdering it.  I don't like to use sandpaper on stocks as my intent is to not lose any wood.  I was able to take the urethane off and realized that there was a thick, brush applied layer of a red wood stain underneath.  it was so thick that it entirely covered not only the F stamp on the wrist but a lot of small dings and scratches that had happened over the decades.  the No. 2 steel wool did not take off any of the stain during the urethane removal.

here's what I found interesting.  the stain was not able to penetrate the wood or even cure properly as it was trapped between the cured urethane topcoat and decades of linseed oil treatment done by who knows how many young soldiers.  this is why the stain didn't come off with the urethane, it was soft and gummy.  I used 00 fine steel wool to rub off the stain.  really had to work it and it took about 6 pads to get it all off.  that included me pulling them open repeatedly to expose clean fibers as it was packing up with the gummy wood stain.

as I was pushing the steel wool I could feel the old linseed oil underneath and could also feel it with my hands.  the fore-end and handguard seemed to have more oil in the wood than the buttstock did.

although the 00 steel wool did not remove any wood it did a great job of polishing it.  

the routine for Linspeed oil is a double application.  you rub it in thoroughly, let it sit for 3 or 4 hours (up to 6 is ok) and then you rub in another coat while the previous coat is still tacky.  so when I said previously that I did 4 coats it was technically 8.  the double coats are really the key to the system.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Honkytonk Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November 10 2020 at 11:33am
The old bottle in the pics looked cool. I checked out, and you can still buy Lin-speed (although I suspect, like the three original bottles of 98% Deet Muskol I have squirreled away!) the original stuff like you still have is a far better product than the current Lin-speed. As with all good products of the past, government steps in and replaces things that work to things that don't just to protect the galatically stupid!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote devrep Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November 10 2020 at 1:13pm
on their website they claim it is the same old formula.  says you can do 6 rifles from that little bottle and I believe it.  takes only a tiny amount.  the bottle had some used when I got it and I have done a rifle and 2 shotguns and there is plenty left.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote devrep Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November 10 2020 at 1:14pm
one of us sucks at this, me or my phone.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote devrep Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November 11 2020 at 5:29pm
I know there is a tool for adjusting the fore sight blade but can it be done with a brass drift?  or is that a bad idea?  thanks.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Goosic Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November 11 2020 at 5:50pm
A brass drift will work. Tap gently.  If your rifle has the front sight base with the grub screw you can use a Schrader Valve tool to loosen the sight base and adjust the blade accordingly. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Shamu Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November 11 2020 at 5:59pm
It depends on the type.
Some you can tap gently with a brass drift & a small hammer, others need the "reversed screw" slackening.
If you need the reverse screwdriver go the the car parts store & get a "Schraeder valve core removal tool", its a perfect fit.
https://cdn.sram.com/sites/default/files/images/products/accessories/rockshox_acc_shrder_valve_removal_tool_lrg.jpg
Don't shoot till you see the whites of their thighs. (Unofficial motto of the Royal Air Force)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote devrep Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November 11 2020 at 6:26pm
cool.  don't have the Schrader type set screw.  thanks guys.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Zed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November 12 2020 at 10:43am
It's worth working out how far you have to move the blade before you start tapping it. Also, measure the blade position as is, so you know where it was originally.
Use a vernier caliper depth gauge to measure the blade from either side of the protection ears.
This will help prevent knocking it left and right and wasting ammo.

To calculate the required adjustment of the blade:
 Error of POI versus POA on the target in inches muliplied by the distance between the front and rear sight. The divide the result by the distance from muzzle to target in inches.

Example! 4" error; 27" sight radius and 100 yards (3600") to target.

 4 X 27 = 108 
108" divided by 3600" = 0.030" ; That's 30 thousandths of an inch error.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Shamu Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November 12 2020 at 1:12pm
One thing to add Make a "witness mark" simply a small scratch that is on both the sight base & the sight mount. That way if anything goes wacko you can just get back the the original position by lining them up again!

--- original
-_- moved
--- set back to original.
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Don't shoot till you see the whites of their thighs. (Unofficial motto of the Royal Air Force)
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