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Black finish on no4 metalwork

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    Posted: May 07 2020 at 9:35am
he!!o all

I’m new to this forum and wondered if anyone could help
I’ve stripped my beech woodwork ready for finishing because the previous owner had varnished it! While I was on I got carried away and thought I’d do the metal work because bad touch up work had been done not the barrel though as this is in good condition. I’ve bought the Birchwood Casey gun bluing kit and stripped the bands, sight guard and trigger guard bit I’ve tried to strip the metal parts on the wooden hand guards and it seems more like a paint than bluing. I’ve got it off now but have I made a massive blunder as these parts were not blued? If I blue them will this look rubbish? If so how can I refinish them?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote A square 10 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May 07 2020 at 7:21pm
paint was the original finish , not just any paint tho - dont think its available anymore but others more knowledgeable on the topic can enlighten further , 

oh , and welcome - great topic , 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Stumpkiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May 07 2020 at 8:31pm
I keep my No4 Mk 1/2 in the scratched up and dinged condition with the remaining paint in place but the wear spots "toned" with Brownell's 44/40 Cold Bluing.  The color is close but it's obviously not the same and is not a smooth surface as it is "thinner" than the painted areas.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote The Armourer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May 08 2020 at 12:27am
Originally posted by A square 10 A square 10 wrote:

paint was the original finish , not just any paint tho - dont think its available anymore but others more knowledgeable on the topic can enlighten further , 

oh , and welcome - great topic , 


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote britrifles Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May 08 2020 at 4:55am
 I’ve just refinished my No. 4 Mk 1/2 with Birchwood Casey Perma Blue (cold blue).  You must completely remove the old finish, including the phosphate, by sanding.  I doubt the blue will take over the base phosphate treatment.  On top of that is the black enamel.  

Follow the instructions exactly.  It will come out a deep black.  The receiver took the most work to remove the old finish and did not take the Perma blue as easily as the barrel and other parts.  I ended up heating the receiver with a hair dryer then applying the blue on the third or fourth application.  If I was to do it again, I would have done that on the first coat, then follow with application at room temp.  Took about 7 coats on the receiver, 2 or 3 on the rest of the metal (barrel, barrel bands, trigger guard, front sight protector, etc.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Canuck Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May 08 2020 at 7:33am
That looks great!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Marco1010 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May 08 2020 at 2:09pm
If you are trying to replicate the original suncorite paint finish I would suggest that you follow the following steps:

Note- The original suncorite is no longer available as some of its ingredients were carcinogenic.

1. Carefully degrease all the parts to be painted, you may need to used solvent based degreaser, so be careful and read all product instructions.

2. Sand all parts to remove all existing coatings (including any blueing as this is a form of corrosion product itself). Even better get the parts abrasive blasted to a fine uniform Matt surface. If you want to be technical a surface profile of about 35 microns. Coatings need a clean surface profile to adhere to.

3. Solvent clean again (remove any skin oils from handling the items).

4. Apply a thin film epoxy primer (this will be a 2-pack product).

5. Over this your black (or other color if you wish) 2 - pack polyurethane finish (this could come in different gloss levels).

Remember high gloss finishes will show up all marks in the steel (including maybe the one you don't want to see). A semi-gloss finish tends to hide marks).

Important don't go overboard with the paint ! too much will increase the chances of it failing. use one coat of the primer at recomended thickness, and at most 2 coats of the finish.

I would recomend spraying the coatings to get an even finish, this can be done with a small disposable 2-pack spray unit (about $20) if you can't find or borrow spray gear.

I'm a paint company tech rep and NACE coating inspector , so this is recomended industry standard for best results, but completely do-able for DIY.

If you don't quite get the finish you want, sand back and repaint again.

Most 2 - pack polyurethane finishes can be polished and buffed once they are fully cured (leave about 7 days to cure) if you really want a bright finish.

The generic system I outlined above will stand temps up to 120 Degress Celcius before the coatings get stressed., I suspect the Lee Enfield would need to driven real hard at the range to get that hot.
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