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Bolt closing resistance

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    Posted: May 26 2021 at 10:05pm
When I close the bolt,on my No.4Mk.1 it seems overly stiff....REALLY stiff,as in nearly having to slam it forward.
Is there an adjustment for that?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote A square 10 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May 27 2021 at 10:29am
not sure im getting exactly what you mean but these do cock-on-closing , you need to overcome that resistance , unlike the mauser type that do the opposite 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Shamu Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May 27 2021 at 10:32am
Not as far as I know, but there is a simple test to see if its cocking spring tension on closing or something else. Like an improperly assembled safety dragging on the bolt.
Open the bolt fully.
Pull & hold the trigger.
Keeping the trigger pulled close the bolt & lock it.
If the resistance vanishes when doing this you're feeling the 13 & change pound spring compressing. If not start looking for damaged poorly assembled parts & so on.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote britrifles Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May 27 2021 at 10:36am
That doesn’t sound right.  Yes, as A square said, you do compress the striker spring on closing the bolt, so there is spring pressure when the cocking piece engages the sear.  I don’t recall how much force that is, maybe 12 - 15 lbs. There should not be any resistance to rotating the bolt for lock up. 

Try this:  open bolt.  Pull back on trigger and hold it in that position.  Push bolt forward, it should move freely and lock with very little resistance.  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote britrifles Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May 27 2021 at 10:37am
Sham beat me to it...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Goosic Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May 27 2021 at 12:17pm
Make sure that the bolthead is screwed all the way into the bolt assembly. Check that there is no crud built up inside the bolt that may cause the spring to not move rearward completely by grasping the cocking piece firmly with pliers and pulling back. Wrap the cocking piece with a thin strip of leather so to not damage the serrations. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Zed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May 27 2021 at 12:31pm
First question! Are you closing the bolt with the chamber empty ? or is this when loading a round into the chamber?

If it's when chambering a round; is it Factory ammo or reloaded brass?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JD 303 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May 27 2021 at 3:19pm
Empty chamber.
Bolt closes smoothly,with trigger pulled.
  It's probably because I haven't used an  Enfield in 12 or so years,and forgot about "Cock-on closing"...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote baltimoreed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May 27 2021 at 4:04pm
I’ve shortened [lightened] the firing pin springs on my Krags and ‘03 Springfields which makes them much easier to run and not had any light primer issues, in fact I only use CCI primers which are harder than the other commercial primers. The military mentality tends to over engineer everything to make it as robust and unbreakable as possible, springs too. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Zed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May 28 2021 at 10:23am
It would be worthwhile stripping down the bolt to remove the spring and see if it's full of crap.
If the inside of the bolt and spring a properly clean and lubed, you should not have an issue compressing the spring. 
Saying that; my 10 year old daughter does struggle a bit to close the bolt on our 1918 SMLE .22 Wink
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Shamu Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May 28 2021 at 11:59am
^^^ this!
I don't totally strip the bolt, but what I do is unscrew the bolt head & hose the insides out with something like "WD-40" or "PB Blaster" & then manually pull & release the cocking piece to "pump it through" the insides. Maybe a couple of times if its really bad. Then i stand it vertically over newsprint over night to let the penetrants out & out Blow it out with an air compressor & put in a few drips of gun oil.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JD 303 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June 05 2021 at 7:20pm
I don't  know if it would affect the bolt resistance ,but I was able to dis assemble the bolt and there was a "spacer"between the spring,and the rear ledge of the spring seat!
I reassembled it,WITHOUT the spacer,and checked the firing pin protrusion,and it's fine(1.103 mm).
Actually seems to close easier,also.
Why would someone put a spacer in there ?

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote britrifles Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June 06 2021 at 4:11am
Was the spacer between the spring and back of the bolt? How long was the spacer?


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JD 303 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June 06 2021 at 7:06am
Yes it was between the spring,and back of the bolt.
It was about 3/16" thick.
It isn't listed on any diagrams I've seen,so I left it out.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Shamu Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June 06 2021 at 9:46am
That would certainly add resistance. It shouldn't be there If you find light primer strikes without it replace the spring.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JD 303 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June 06 2021 at 9:58am
Yes,...I wondered about that,so I fired a coule of rounds.
They're virtually the same .as the rounds I fired ,before removing the spacer.
Puzzling.
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