muzzle question |
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Shamu
Admin Group Logo Designer / Donating Member Joined: April 25 2007 Location: MD, USA. Status: Offline Points: 17603 |
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Posted: May 19 2020 at 7:25am |
Stand oil is the original heat treated linseed oil. The stuff sold in the U.S. (mainly at home improvement stores & so on) is a blends linseed that may, or may not be boiled, but it does have other things & chemical dryers added. You may also find it sold as PURE linseed oil.
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Don't shoot till you see the whites of their thighs. (Unofficial motto of the Royal Air Force)
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Zed
Special Member Donating Member Joined: May 01 2012 Location: France Status: Online Points: 5585 |
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In Paris I found Clarified Linseed oil in an Art shop. I used that on one of my No8 rifles. The clarified oil is slightly lighter colour than the standard pressed linseed oil; so handy if you have a beech stock that wants to stay blonde.
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It's nice to be important, but it's more important to be nice!
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Stumpkiller
Senior Member Joined: April 03 2020 Location: Port Crane, NY Status: Offline Points: 254 |
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First round is on me.
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Charlie P.
Life is not about how fast you run, or how high you climb, but how well you bounce. |
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englishman_ca
Senior Member Joined: September 08 2009 Location: Almaguin Status: Offline Points: 1089 |
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Cold pressed linseed oil is the best stuff if you can find it and is the most expensive. Again, a visit to the art store.
Stand oil is processed and is a little thicker, yes, but no driers added, it is pure. Maybe they do boil it in which case, I stand corrected. |
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. Look to your front, mark your target when it comes! |
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Stumpkiller
Senior Member Joined: April 03 2020 Location: Port Crane, NY Status: Offline Points: 254 |
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Are you sure? "Stand Oil" is heat treated linseed oil. It's aka "Boiled Linseed Oil". Though boiled linseed oil usually has additional drying agents. The other name for raw linseed oil is "cold-pressed" linseed oil.
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Charlie P.
Life is not about how fast you run, or how high you climb, but how well you bounce. |
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Donald303
Groupie Joined: September 27 2018 Location: Tennessee Status: Offline Points: 85 |
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Englishman and Shamu, I have a pretty good health food store here in town. I will go by and take a look. Only wish I had a good 100 yard range closer to home....
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You can lead a horse to water but a bullet must be lead...
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Shamu
Admin Group Logo Designer / Donating Member Joined: April 25 2007 Location: MD, USA. Status: Offline Points: 17603 |
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Yup! thats the stuff, but stand oil is actually boiled.
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Don't shoot till you see the whites of their thighs. (Unofficial motto of the Royal Air Force)
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englishman_ca
Senior Member Joined: September 08 2009 Location: Almaguin Status: Offline Points: 1089 |
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Pure raw linseed oil.
Art store, it is called Stand Oil. Health food store, it is called Flax Oil.
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. Look to your front, mark your target when it comes! |
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Donald303
Groupie Joined: September 27 2018 Location: Tennessee Status: Offline Points: 85 |
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Britrifles, I agree totally. I will try to locate the said linseed oil. I would rather not do even any minor sanding if I don't have to.
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You can lead a horse to water but a bullet must be lead...
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britrifles
Senior Member Joined: February 03 2018 Location: Atlanta, GA Status: Offline Points: 6539 |
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If the rifle groups well, I would not attempt any major surgery, other than application of some RLO or BLO. Particularly if the draws and rear receiver bearings are good.
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Donald303
Groupie Joined: September 27 2018 Location: Tennessee Status: Offline Points: 85 |
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Britrifles, if I remember correctly (it has been several months since shooting it) it initially printed slightly high and left. I believe on my second to last outing I had to ever so slightly move the foresight to the left. Functionally though, it is superb. It has a great barrel and bolt action is very smooth.
Shamu, I will see where I can find some linseed oil. My understanding is that the wood on these old rifles can indeed dry out and warp slightly over time.
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You can lead a horse to water but a bullet must be lead...
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Shamu
Admin Group Logo Designer / Donating Member Joined: April 25 2007 Location: MD, USA. Status: Offline Points: 17603 |
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Second thought. (to try first?) If the wood seems very "dry" Get some real Raw Linseed Oil. Real, not the cheap home improvement store rubbish. Take down the fore end & rub 2 or 3 light coats in, one a day, inside & out & let it sit for a couple of days. Reassemble & see if the problem went away! Old, dry wood shrinks & warps but re oiling it swells it back up again. If that doesn't work thy the above. |
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Don't shoot till you see the whites of their thighs. (Unofficial motto of the Royal Air Force)
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britrifles
Senior Member Joined: February 03 2018 Location: Atlanta, GA Status: Offline Points: 6539 |
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Shamu gave a much more complete answer. How does the rifle shoot?
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Donald303
Groupie Joined: September 27 2018 Location: Tennessee Status: Offline Points: 85 |
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Thank you for your instructions. I will print and follow. There is also a video on Youtube that (I hope) also explains this but as I am not a Lee expert I can only hope it is adequate. I am not aware of anybody in this area who works on these so I appreciate the help. Except for this issue the rifle is beautiful. The only part that does not number match is the magazine which sports 7565A.
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You can lead a horse to water but a bullet must be lead...
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Shamu
Admin Group Logo Designer / Donating Member Joined: April 25 2007 Location: MD, USA. Status: Offline Points: 17603 |
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There should be tip concact over the bottom third of the barrel circumference, It should take 5~7 Lbs of force (use a trigger pull gauge) to move it. Now you have to identify WHY it pushed to the side. That problem may not be AT the tip though. That may be a symptom, not the disease. Take the handguards off do you can access he barrel channel. Look inside them for any contact points (shiny or black ones). This means the handguards are contacting the barrel, which they shouldn't. With some moderately fine sandpaper wrapped round a dowel to mimic the barrel sand them down carefully. Now reassemble & see if its fixed. If it is take it down oil lightly to re seal with Linseed & reassemble. While you have it down slip a dollar bill under the barrel between it & the forend wood. It should slide freely the length of the barrel from breech to muzzle & back. Except for 1 ~1/14" at the bottom center at the breech & a 1~1/12" section at the tip of the forend bottom dead center. If it doesn't remove the barreled action from the stock & do the same in the bottom 1/2 of the barrel channel,also. Sand those points also. Huge gaps aren't needed, or wanted. a sheet or 2 of paper is plenty.
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Don't shoot till you see the whites of their thighs. (Unofficial motto of the Royal Air Force)
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britrifles
Senior Member Joined: February 03 2018 Location: Atlanta, GA Status: Offline Points: 6539 |
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Handguards should not touch the barrel and allow upward movement of the barrel. Forend wood muzzle bearing should contact lower third of barrel, not the full height of the forend.
Check that the metal nose cap (forend and upper handguard) is not touching the foresight protector.
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