New member from NY, USA, with a question. |
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toivo
Newbie Joined: July 06 2020 Location: NY, USA Status: Offline Points: 3 |
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Posted: July 06 2020 at 11:38pm |
he!!o, all -- looking forward to participating in this forum. I'm mostly a recreational shooter -- .22 pistol and rifle target leagues, trap and sporting clays, that kind of thing. I've picked up a few milsurps along the way -- a Garand, a few Mosins, and a Swiss K31. I just got my C&R FFL and the Enfield bug along with it.
So now I am the new owner of a No. 4 Mk. I. It's from RTI -- I know the scary stories, but it looks OK so far. From the serial number, it seems to be a US-made Savage, but I haven't seen a "US Property" mark on it -- maybe I haven't looked hard enough. Anyway, here's what I'm wondering:
With previous milsurps, I usually just field strip and clean the bolt and easily accessible parts, then brush and swab the bore, and then wipe the worst of the crud off the stock before I go out and shoot it. I'm tempted to do the same with this one, but something in me wants to detail strip it and really clean it up nice. However, I've heard/read that this can be tricky with these rifles. There are horror stores of split forends and so on, and warnings that No. 4 Enfields are "tuned" and that sloppy reassembly can harm accuracy. So ... field strip or shoot, or detail strip and get down to deep cleaning? Looking forward to hearing other people's experiences. |
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Goosic
Senior Member Joined: September 12 2017 Location: Phoenix Arizona Status: Offline Points: 8792 |
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Welcome from Phoenix Arizona.
First and foremost. What is the serial number please. This will give us more to go on and tell you exactly what you have. Pictures will also speak volumes here as well. As far as completely tearing the rifle down to clean it? I would not. Yes,it is a bolt action rifle but, if you are not familiar with the nuances of the removal or refitting technique of the furniture,you can in fact, degrade the accuracy of the rifle. Again,the reason I have asked that a serial number be supplied is that we here can give you a definitive answer. Examples: Maltby AB15407 Fazackerly Y25731 BSA Shirley B33549 Long Branch 17L854 Savage 73C2642 Some folk tend to be uneasy about sharing serial numbers and that is understandable. If this is the case with you but would still like the confirmation as to if it is a Savage made Enfield, supply the first four of the serial number. IE: 73C2***. The rifle in the photo is a 1943 made No4Mk1 Savage. The serial number is 73C2642...
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Shamu
Admin Group Logo Designer / Donating Member Joined: April 25 2007 Location: MD, USA. Status: Offline Points: 17603 |
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The split forends are unique to the earlier No1 MkIII (SMLE) rifles & don't apply to the No4 because the internal bolt is different. However there are a few tricks for it as well. Probably the biggest is to NOT bend the forend down at the tip to remove it. That will cause internal damage. I have a step-by-step illustrated guide to complete dismantling with instructions. Unfortunately its too big a file to send to the site but if you have an e-mail address that can take largish .PDF files, PM it to me & I'll send it to you there. |
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Don't shoot till you see the whites of their thighs. (Unofficial motto of the Royal Air Force)
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Whitjr
Senior Member Joined: September 09 2018 Location: Piedmont, NC Status: Offline Points: 426 |
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welcome from NC,
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Honkytonk
Senior Member Joined: December 30 2017 Location: Brandon Mb Status: Offline Points: 4770 |
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Welcome from Brandon, Manitoba, Canada!
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toivo
Newbie Joined: July 06 2020 Location: NY, USA Status: Offline Points: 3 |
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Wow, quick responses! You guys are great! Thanks for all the helpful info.
Serial #34C4288. Under the serial number is a letter that could be an "S" or a "5". There is a mark that appears to be an asterisk after the "No. 4 MK I" marking. It is marked "U.S. Property" -- I was looking in all the wrong places. Right now I'm leaning towards a quick clean and then shoot it. Maybe I'll leave the detail stripping for a winter project.
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Goosic
Senior Member Joined: September 12 2017 Location: Phoenix Arizona Status: Offline Points: 8792 |
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That is definitely a Savage serial number, late 42'. The s/5 under the serial number is a Square S. Your rifle is a No4Mk1*. It has been simplified by having a slot cut into the bolt raceway just behind the breaching area for quicker bolt removal. When you do get to testing it out,do yourself a favor and check each case for any start of a separation about a 1/4" from the rim of the cartridge case. You will want to have the headspace gauged at some point as well...
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Shamu
Admin Group Logo Designer / Donating Member Joined: April 25 2007 Location: MD, USA. Status: Offline Points: 17603 |
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Your manual has been sent.
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Don't shoot till you see the whites of their thighs. (Unofficial motto of the Royal Air Force)
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tharruff
Groupie Joined: July 07 2020 Location: Dayton Ohio Status: Offline Points: 23 |
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Shamu,
Would you mind sending me the .pdf file as well ? I'm also a new member, coincidentally, also from New York and further coincidentally working on a Savage Arms No 4, Mk 1 riffle at the moment.
I'll send you a PM with my email address. Thank you. |
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Zed
Special Member Donating Member Joined: May 01 2012 Location: France Status: Offline Points: 5585 |
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Welcome to the forum. If the rifle is in apparently good condition, test the rifle for accuracy. If it's really good; (around 2 or 3 MOA) don't remove the wood. If the accuracy is horrible (over 5 MOA) then it probably needs the wood setting up properly anyway. Obviously assuming that the barrel is in reasonable condition.
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It's nice to be important, but it's more important to be nice!
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Shamu
Admin Group Logo Designer / Donating Member Joined: April 25 2007 Location: MD, USA. Status: Offline Points: 17603 |
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Yours is sent too.
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Don't shoot till you see the whites of their thighs. (Unofficial motto of the Royal Air Force)
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britrifles
Senior Member Joined: February 03 2018 Location: Atlanta, GA Status: Offline Points: 6539 |
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Welcome from Atlanta GA.
Other than damaging the wood bearing surfaces by trying to pry the forend off by pulling it down at the muzzle (DONT do it), it’s pretty tough to damage a No. 4 rifle by fully disassembling it. If you do want to remove the forend, pull the forend down from the receiver at the rear end, if it’s really tight, you may need to take a small block of soft wood and tap along the upper horizontal surfaces of the forend just in front of the butt socket. This way, you can remove the sear etc., but certainly not necessary before you go shoot the rifle. I suggest removing the trigger guard and see if the forend is loose front to back. It really should not move at all, but a very small movement is OK and you should repair that if you intend to shoot the rifle a fair bit. No reason to remove the butt. Checking headspace is wise, and absolutely should be done if bolt serial number does not match the serial number of the action body On the left side of the butt socket. But even it it does, there is a possibility the bolt head was replaced which affects headspace. Doing what Goosic suggested is wise. The Enfield is forgiving of case head separations, I’ve had several occur. Gasses will vent out the hole on the left side of the receiver where the barrel screws in. If you reload, having minimum headspace prolongs brass life. Let us know how it shoots. I’m a junkie for getting Range reports. What every you do, don’t fire the rifle with the bolt head removed! I know that sounds dumb, but it has happened before, and it has wrecked actions. |
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A square 10
Special Member Donating Member Joined: December 12 2006 Location: MN , USA Status: Offline Points: 14452 |
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welcome , glad yyou have joined us ,
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