Cleaning up an old No.1 Mk3 |
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BF& F'n I
Newbie Joined: February 28 2010 Location: Alberta, Canada Status: Offline Points: 9 |
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Posted: March 01 2010 at 5:57am |
Hey all.
I have an old #1 Mk3 I want to clean up the wood furnature on, but do not want to lose the markings on the wood.
I've read this article, http://enfieldrifles.profusehost.net/ti11.htm but am a little confused.
If I use acetone, will the markings dissapear?
I'd rather ask ya'll before I attempted anything, so I don't ruin it.
Thanks in advance!
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"Brute Force, and F***ing Ignorance"
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BF& F'n I
Newbie Joined: February 28 2010 Location: Alberta, Canada Status: Offline Points: 9 |
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Oh..and 1 more thing...
I'd like the wood to be nice and shiney...any particular waxes or other finishing methods you guys use?
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"Brute Force, and F***ing Ignorance"
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Shamu
Admin Group Logo Designer / Donating Member Joined: April 25 2007 Location: MD, USA. Status: Offline Points: 17603 |
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Mostly the markings are stamped into the wood with an embossing die stamp. The problem for a restorer is to not remove enough material from the surface that the (sometimes very lightly) stamped marks are sanded away.
The chemicals dissolve the embedded cosmolene, dirt & so on, but in the process raise "whiskers" (wood fibers) in the wood. The usual removal method for whiskers is sanding. So the acetone isn't directly responsible for the marks being damaged, but it is tangentally as it caused the whiskers that called for the sanding that did. Personally I use denatured alcohol. It dissolves Cosmo with a very slight raising of grain, so it in turn calls for less sanding, which is less likely to remove markings. I also don't use sandpaper of any kind, even the very fine stuff. I prefer "Scotchbrite pads" the regular green ones you find in the supermarket, to anything else & I use almost no pressure when removing the whiskers. Finishing glossy: You have to replace the dirty old oil you removed first, the best thing for that is "BLO" Boiled Linseed Oil. You use a cotton patch, stuffed with cotton balls & just rub the heck out of it lots of times with something like hessian or hemp sacking (from Wally-world). The finish will come after the wood is re-filled with oil. Here's how to get a really shiny finish. It's called "Old London Oil" & is very tradditional. Make a 50-50 mix of BLO & Shellac. Shake the heck out opf it as it won't really MIX so you need to make a suspension. Now rub it in with the same cotton-stuffed rags as previously, but keep scrubbing till you feel the finish "GRAB". Now let it sit overnight & then wipe off excess oil on the surface. The "GRAB" is very distinctive, you'll have no problem feeling it the first time it happens. Repeat the rubbing in/letting stand/wiping off excess the next day till you have the amount of shine you'll want. It'll build up every time you apply a fresh coat. You can go from smooth thru "Parade ground" all the way to mirror slick glossy depending on how many coats you want to apply. Caution! Do NOT keep the mix & dispose of the rags promptly. Mixed Old London Oil can burst into flame spontaneously in storage, as can rags saturated with it! |
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Don't shoot till you see the whites of their thighs. (Unofficial motto of the Royal Air Force)
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BF& F'n I
Newbie Joined: February 28 2010 Location: Alberta, Canada Status: Offline Points: 9 |
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thanks for the input Shamu!
A co-worker dabbles in old school wood finishing using the BLO & Shellac technique you have described.
That is the method I'll most likely use, as I'm thinking this rifle will be used primarily for display purposes.
I'd really like to see a picture of a stock you've refinished using this method..preferably a shiney one.
Cheers!
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"Brute Force, and F***ing Ignorance"
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Cookie Monster
Special Member Joined: January 22 2006 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 7510 |
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Enjoy there is a post I started when I restored a 1818 BSA there is several links where you can find replacement parts
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Shamu
Admin Group Logo Designer / Donating Member Joined: April 25 2007 Location: MD, USA. Status: Offline Points: 17603 |
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I usually do not go to a high gloss with Lee Enfields, just a semi-gloss buffed BLO.
Here's a laminate-stocked Remington 700 that I went shiny on if that helps any. |
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Don't shoot till you see the whites of their thighs. (Unofficial motto of the Royal Air Force)
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BF& F'n I
Newbie Joined: February 28 2010 Location: Alberta, Canada Status: Offline Points: 9 |
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fantastic looking Rem there Shamu!
That is the finish I'm going for, thanks for the pic!
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"Brute Force, and F***ing Ignorance"
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LE Owner
Senior Member Joined: December 04 2009 Status: Offline Points: 1047 |
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I would add that 0000 steel wool removes furring better than scotchbrite and is less damaging to the wood.
Trisodium phosate solution is a better way to remove oil stains and draw oil out of wood, since it soaks in then recystalizes pushing ground in grease and dirt from between the fibers to the surface.
Theres difference of opinion on use of laquers or shellac, Museums used these at one time to preserve markings, but most collectors prefer the original linseed oil finish.
An oil finish can become very shiny and slick over many years of use.
End Dust spray wax has been recommended to protect gun stock finishes. I sometimes use paste wax which dulls after awhile but quickly regains its shine when polished.
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BF& F'n I
Newbie Joined: February 28 2010 Location: Alberta, Canada Status: Offline Points: 9 |
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I've been doing a lot of thinking about this rifle. Basically..what is it?
It's a 1920 Lithgow No.1 MkIII Sht. LE
All the wood furnature is not original to the rifle, I purchased it from a local L.E. guy, who tells me that the stock's markings are from India... which, as I understand, a lot off Lithgow Lee's ended up there back in the 20's.
I also have a 1917 Bayonet for it and am really considering making this one into a decorative wall hanging...but, I can't bare to make a perfectly serviceable SMLE non fireable. Basically, my No.4 MkII is my hunter, and I have the No.1 kicking around, and taking up space.
So, here is what I am thinking.
I might give the action, barrel and stock a thourough cleaning, fire a few rounds thru it, then maybe Varathane or Polyurethane the stock to a mirror finish, and just hold on to the thing.
Any opinions?
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"Brute Force, and F***ing Ignorance"
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Tony
Moderator Group Moderator Joined: April 18 2006 Location: United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 3256 |
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Personally I'd use a mix of turpentine beeswax and BLO. It gives a lovely finish looks antique but polishes up to a gloss finish with some hard work and the beauty of it is if it gets scratched the polish will cover it easily whereas with Poly coats you have to flat it down and start again.
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Rottie (PitBulls dad.)
“If electricity comes from electrons, does morality come from morons Born free taxed to death!!! |
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Shamu
Admin Group Logo Designer / Donating Member Joined: April 25 2007 Location: MD, USA. Status: Offline Points: 17603 |
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Avoid the poly whatever you do. Like Tony says its much harder to fix dings & scratches.
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Don't shoot till you see the whites of their thighs. (Unofficial motto of the Royal Air Force)
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LE Owner
Senior Member Joined: December 04 2009 Status: Offline Points: 1047 |
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Since you plan to hang it on the wall the protective qualities of synthetic finishes are of no value. A shiney rifle isn't necessary for a wall display either.
Best to just clean it a bit to remove built up grease and dirt then wax it.
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A square 10
Special Member Donating Member Joined: December 12 2006 Location: MN , USA Status: Offline Points: 14452 |
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wow - shamu - now thats a sexy looking rifle
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Shamu
Admin Group Logo Designer / Donating Member Joined: April 25 2007 Location: MD, USA. Status: Offline Points: 17603 |
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Yeah, I wish I still had that one.
It would hold 1/2MOA out to 300yds. |
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Don't shoot till you see the whites of their thighs. (Unofficial motto of the Royal Air Force)
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