Barrel To Fore End Fitment No4 MK1 |
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BMP
Senior Member Joined: October 25 2015 Location: Iowa Status: Offline Points: 133 |
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Posted: September 20 2017 at 10:37am |
I've done a little research on this and have read quite a few opinions on how the barrel should fit. I was going to center bed my rifle and float the rest of the barrel. All input would be greatly appreciated on this practice! Thanks!
Oh, currently the barrel on my No4 is touching the right side of the fore end tip and sits with a slight down tension. Kind of a 4:00 position. The rest of the barrel is floated and looks pretty good. I am assuming the stock has warped to the left which put the barrel in contact with it. Thanks again gents! Brad |
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1917 NO1. MKIII ShtLE
1942 NO4. MK1 four digit BSA |
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Zed
Special Member Donating Member Joined: May 01 2012 Location: France Status: Offline Points: 5585 |
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A poor fit at the recoil lugs can throw the wood left or right.
I had this issue on my No1 mkIII* I was able to shim the recoil lug's. Not being a master carpenter; I decided to use brass shims instead of a hard wood repair. I made shims out of an old .303 case; opened up and flattened out. It has varying thickness depending where you select the brass from. So you can have different thickness each side to help center the barrel. You need to start from the rear and work forward. My No4 Mk1/2 is centre bedded; it was done by Fulton's. It shoots very well; actually better than I can shoot it
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Shamu
Admin Group Logo Designer / Donating Member Joined: April 25 2007 Location: MD, USA. Status: Offline Points: 17603 |
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I'd stock it up normally & only if its still lacking go back & add the center bedding. You can always go back in later & pack for central if its needed.
If its a little off center you could try a few coats of Linseed, sometimes when wood drys it warps & adding the liquid might just move it back. You might also try thin shims under the knoxx, about 1 1/2" long & 3/4" wide, covering the bottom slightly off center. & at the front center of the receiver to make them both have contact equally. You'll need very little something like a cut & cleaned piece of a soda can may be enough! Oiled business cards used to be popular but I prefer something that can't trap or hold moisture. I've frequently found that more really is less with Enfield barrels. Other than the green areas I'd have zero contact inside the forend, except for at the pad in the bottom front of the nose piece. It should have 5~10 pounds of up force there. One of the big issues seems to be handguard contact at the join or the center "web" of the forend making contact. |
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Don't shoot till you see the whites of their thighs. (Unofficial motto of the Royal Air Force)
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Canuck
Special Member Donating Member Joined: January 17 2012 Location: Agassiz BC Status: Offline Points: 3535 |
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Like a lot of old wood (like Hoadies'), it needs help for proper fitment . Most are not 'plug and play' so to speak. Restoring these rifles and encountering this issue makes it more fun for me and my hobby.
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Castles made of sand slip into the sea.....eventually
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BMP
Senior Member Joined: October 25 2015 Location: Iowa Status: Offline Points: 133 |
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Thanks for the info guys.
I ended up making two shims out of pop can material. Adding these to the left side recoil lug brought the fore stock back and centered the barrel. Now I have something else to tune! I believe the bottom barrel tension I was feeling when it wasn't centered was the barrel hitting the lower/side 1/4 radius of the barrel inletting. With the barrel centered, it is now sitting slightly above the bottom of the inletting at the tip with a slight gap. Have any of you guys added a pressure bed under the tip? Thanks in advance! Brad |
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1917 NO1. MKIII ShtLE
1942 NO4. MK1 four digit BSA |
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Shamu
Admin Group Logo Designer / Donating Member Joined: April 25 2007 Location: MD, USA. Status: Offline Points: 17603 |
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You can shim there too, but it shouldn't contact the handguard at all, so a little careful positioning or sanding may be needed.
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Don't shoot till you see the whites of their thighs. (Unofficial motto of the Royal Air Force)
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Zed
Special Member Donating Member Joined: May 01 2012 Location: France Status: Offline Points: 5585 |
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Getting all to work perfectly is quite a challenge (but very satisfying). The fit of the wood and trigger guard will also effect the trigger action.
To get the up pressure at the muzzle end; you should first try refreshing the linseed oil treatment . As the oil is soaked up the wood may swell up if it has been allowed to dry out. If this does not do the trick. You can shim between the trigger guard and the fore end around the main screw. Make sure the spacer can pass through the shim. This will help lift the front end. I would not recommend shortening the spacer; as it will effect the trigger pull. (Unless you need to sort the trigger).
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It's nice to be important, but it's more important to be nice!
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Shamu
Admin Group Logo Designer / Donating Member Joined: April 25 2007 Location: MD, USA. Status: Offline Points: 17603 |
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Yes baby steps, little ones. one at a time. That trigger can be badly effected if you go overboard.
If the oil doesn't work after 3 or 4 light coats one a night for each night, you might want to try either removing one set of shims from the front, or adding one on the two top flats at the rear. (red squares), obviously you'll fit to match the wood not just squares. This will tilt your barrel down slightly possibly reestablishing contact with the pad. |
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Don't shoot till you see the whites of their thighs. (Unofficial motto of the Royal Air Force)
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BMP
Senior Member Joined: October 25 2015 Location: Iowa Status: Offline Points: 133 |
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Great advice guys! I totally appreciate it! I will let you know how things work out.
How do you go about getting an accurate weight of downforce on the barrel stock tip? Brad |
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1917 NO1. MKIII ShtLE
1942 NO4. MK1 four digit BSA |
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Zed
Special Member Donating Member Joined: May 01 2012 Location: France Status: Offline Points: 5585 |
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upper handguard removed. Fore end fitted and tight. Slip a strip of paper betwwen barrel and point of contact with the fore end (at the muzzle znd). I use a spring balance (fishing scale) with a strap around the end of the barrel. Pull it upwards and read the load when the paper slips out freely.
About 5 to 7 lbs is good. You may need help holding the rifle if you don't have a rig to hold it. |
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It's nice to be important, but it's more important to be nice!
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BMP
Senior Member Joined: October 25 2015 Location: Iowa Status: Offline Points: 133 |
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^^^VERY GOOD^^^ Brad |
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1917 NO1. MKIII ShtLE
1942 NO4. MK1 four digit BSA |
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Shamu
Admin Group Logo Designer / Donating Member Joined: April 25 2007 Location: MD, USA. Status: Offline Points: 17603 |
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I use a trigger pull gauge simply because I own one!
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Don't shoot till you see the whites of their thighs. (Unofficial motto of the Royal Air Force)
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BMP
Senior Member Joined: October 25 2015 Location: Iowa Status: Offline Points: 133 |
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Me as well. I have a Lyman. I'm going to go shoot it this afternoon and get a baseline in its full free float state. Its a little windy but consistent. All I have is 180gr PPU. The 8Z devil ammo is staying home! LOL Brad |
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1917 NO1. MKIII ShtLE
1942 NO4. MK1 four digit BSA |
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Zed
Special Member Donating Member Joined: May 01 2012 Location: France Status: Offline Points: 5585 |
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Let us know how it shoot's as is; then keep a track of the improvements (if it needs any!)
Just encouragement; here are two targets from my No1MkIII* rifle. One taken before fitting the wood properly, and one after getting it sorted. This was my first time at stocking up the woodwork, so I read everything I could before starting. I'm happy with the improvement. (it was awful to start with) |
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It's nice to be important, but it's more important to be nice!
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BMP
Senior Member Joined: October 25 2015 Location: Iowa Status: Offline Points: 133 |
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That was a major improvement with your No1 Zed!
Mine seems to be doing good in a full floated state. I only had 5 rounds of PPU 180gr BTSP's. First shot went super high as I forgot to dial the micro rear sight down. OOPS! I set the rear sight at 200. Off my ballistics software it should be printing 2" high of center. The group was about 1" right and averaged 1/4" high of point of aim. I'm getting more ammunition in this week and will get a few more targets shot after then. Oh, the target was at 50 yards. This is the most fun I have had with a rifle in years! Brad |
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1917 NO1. MKIII ShtLE
1942 NO4. MK1 four digit BSA |
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Zed
Special Member Donating Member Joined: May 01 2012 Location: France Status: Offline Points: 5585 |
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The barrel on the No1 rifle is more flexible than the No4; so it is a bit more prone to flexing if not set up correctly. I still have one issue; which I may have to live with! that's when shooting competitions; the elevation of the second set of 10 rounds will change due to the heat already in the barrel. Unfortunately I don't have easy access to a 200 metre range to practice and work out exactly what's happening. Obviously the time taken to patch targets depends on number of competitor's; factor in ambient temperature etc and there are lot's of variables.
Look's like you have a good rifle there.
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It's nice to be important, but it's more important to be nice!
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