Notch on bolt head |
Post Reply | Page 12> |
Author | |
DeeCeeTee
Newbie Joined: November 01 2017 Location: San Diego, Ca. Status: Offline Points: 7 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Posted: November 06 2017 at 7:10am |
Hi Guys. I am new to No 1 Mk3*s and in pursuit of minimilizing the head space I ordered several head bolts from Liberty Tree and some are notched and some are not. What is the deal with the notches? The ones with out the notches seem to be very tight and do not 'clock' correctly. What is the deal with bolts marked DP? I have one of those also. Can you help me? Thanks.
|
|
A square 10
Special Member Donating Member Joined: December 12 2006 Location: MN , USA Status: Offline Points: 14452 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
the DP marked is "drill purpose" only but i would not think it would affect the use of a bolt head if it headspaced correctly ,
|
|
Shamu
Admin Group Logo Designer / Donating Member Joined: April 25 2007 Location: MD, USA. Status: Offline Points: 17608 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
I'd honestly not use the DP stamped ones. See if they'll swap them for non DP.
Can you show a pic of this "notch" |
|
Don't shoot till you see the whites of their thighs. (Unofficial motto of the Royal Air Force)
|
|
Bear43
Special Member Donating Member Joined: August 11 2010 Location: Doland, SD Status: Offline Points: 3059 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Are you referring to notched and non-notched like the ones in the following picture? If so, the notched one was an earlier design meant to facilitate removal of the striker. Since that was deemed unnecessary eventually the non-notched design came about. They don't necessarily interchange either. I have found that non-notched bolt heads tend not to work on earlier bolt bodies and I have seen notched bolt heads that wouldn't turn into a later bolt body. You just have to keep at it until you find one that works with your bolt body. Also, please do not use a DP marked bolt head. They were marked DP for a reason, don't risk your life with DP marked pressure bearing parts.
|
|
Shamu
Admin Group Logo Designer / Donating Member Joined: April 25 2007 Location: MD, USA. Status: Offline Points: 17608 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Well I'll be. . .
learn summat every day round here. |
|
Don't shoot till you see the whites of their thighs. (Unofficial motto of the Royal Air Force)
|
|
DeeCeeTee
Newbie Joined: November 01 2017 Location: San Diego, Ca. Status: Offline Points: 7 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Hi, Thanks for the reply. The original bolt/bolt head that came with the rifle has a notch in it and the replacement bolt/bolt head that I ordered from Liberty Tree does not and the bolt and the Cocking Piece have DP stamped on them, not the bolt head. Here are pictures of the two bolts. Any help on the letters/symbols on the bolt heads would be wonderful. Or is there a place to go on the web that explains the manufacturers stamps on the web?
|
|
DeeCeeTee
Newbie Joined: November 01 2017 Location: San Diego, Ca. Status: Offline Points: 7 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Here are some more pictures. I did not know how to attach multiple photos.
|
|
DeeCeeTee
Newbie Joined: November 01 2017 Location: San Diego, Ca. Status: Offline Points: 7 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Bear43,
The silver headbolt is .643" and the blue headbolt is .634". The blue bolt/headbolt combo close on NG and do not close on the FIELD. I have not tried on the okie headspace gauges yet. I thought if I put silver headbolt on my bolt I would close the headspace down by .009" and be back in the G-NG area. When I tried it the silver bolthead was really tight when screwed in and I would have had to use some muscle to get it to align (clock) at 1200 for installing it. So i stopped and wrote in. Thanks again for the info and thoughts. DeeCeeTee
|
|
Canuck
Special Member Donating Member Joined: January 17 2012 Location: Agassiz BC Status: Offline Points: 3535 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
I had no idea a notched bolt head for the #1 rifle even existed. Thanks for enlightening us, Bear!
|
|
Castles made of sand slip into the sea.....eventually
|
|
Zed
Special Member Donating Member Joined: May 01 2012 Location: France Status: Offline Points: 5586 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
I had noticed the notch on a couple of the bolt head's that I have for the No1 rifle. I did no the reason for it. So thank you Bear! it's nice to learn something new.
|
|
It's nice to be important, but it's more important to be nice!
|
|
Bear43
Special Member Donating Member Joined: August 11 2010 Location: Doland, SD Status: Offline Points: 3059 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Glad to be of some help! Stuff like this has to be shared about so we don't lose it.
|
|
Shamu
Admin Group Logo Designer / Donating Member Joined: April 25 2007 Location: MD, USA. Status: Offline Points: 17608 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
I'd be really, really nervous about using those DP marked parts.
Seriously how do you know they aren't out of gauge, or haven't been softened for example? |
|
Don't shoot till you see the whites of their thighs. (Unofficial motto of the Royal Air Force)
|
|
Bear43
Special Member Donating Member Joined: August 11 2010 Location: Doland, SD Status: Offline Points: 3059 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
DeeCeeTee, I think you are overthinking the headspace. Do not go by Go/No Go, go only by the Field gauge and only use the proper military field gauge. If you were using SAAMI spec gauges, they are all wrong for these rifles. Also, the Go/No Go is only used for fitting barrels while the Field is used to check serviceability. So first, get the Okie gauges. Second, return those DP parts to Liberty Tree, do not use any pressure bearing DP parts including bolt body and head. Even the DP cocking piece raises overall safety concerns. We will help you get this sorted, just take your time in all of this.
|
|
DeeCeeTee
Newbie Joined: November 01 2017 Location: San Diego, Ca. Status: Offline Points: 7 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Hi Bear43,
I will follow your advice and send the DP bolt assy back and ask for a non-DP one. I had ordered a set of the Okie gauges and they just showed up yesterday, I will try those on my original bolt and let you know. I also ordered 4 bolt heads to try and find a longer one, they are in the mail right now. Right now I am shooting military surplus brass, but plan to reload as I accumulate my brass. Is headspace more critical on military ammo or reloads? Or am I being OCD about the issue. Thanks, Dave
|
|
Shamu
Admin Group Logo Designer / Donating Member Joined: April 25 2007 Location: MD, USA. Status: Offline Points: 17608 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
H/S is about longer brass life.
I think you are being a little OCD with it. Its a simple pass/fail option. Bolt closes on an 0.074" FIELD = FAIL, everything else = GOOD. To put it into perspective I'd rather have a non DP that just barely passes than a DP that passes with flying colors. |
|
Don't shoot till you see the whites of their thighs. (Unofficial motto of the Royal Air Force)
|
|
Zed
Special Member Donating Member Joined: May 01 2012 Location: France Status: Offline Points: 5586 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Shamu; I think you've got it the wrong way around!
If the bolt closes on the "Field" gauge it's a FAIL. Because head space is over 0,074". If it does not close on the "Field" gauge the the head space is GOOD, because it's less than the 0,074" limit. The 0,064 No Go is only really useful if changing a barrel or new bolt body. |
|
It's nice to be important, but it's more important to be nice!
|
|
Post Reply | Page 12> |
Tweet
|
Forum Jump | Forum Permissions You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot create polls in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum |