Ishapore 2A1 - Navy Arms conversion foregrip

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   New here…not sure what sub category to post this in lol. 
So I am in love with this thing. I picked it up this weekend. It’s a conversion of course to look like a Jungle Carbine. I know it’s not. I always wanted a Lee Enfield in 7.62. Trigger is the best I have on any of my Garands, Enfield P14, of course a mosin and a A3. It’s in great condition and a sharp bright bore. The forend where the trigger guard goes in is cracked where the stock screw sits against the fore end. I’ve done bedding on rifles and prepped it awaiting the Acraglass. Assuming it it should old, but if it doesn’t what’s the best route for a bottom forend to get it back to shooting? Should I fill in the dimple with acraglass? See the link below for pictures. 

https://imgur.com/a/riVtJ6R

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Left_to_lobster_2020 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Newbie Joined: March 31 2024 Location: Michigan Status: Offline Points: 4	Post Options Post Reply Quote Left_to_lobster_2020 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Topic: Ishapore 2A1 - Navy Arms conversion foregrip Posted: April 01 2024 at 6:10am
	New here…not sure what sub category to post this in lol. So I am in love with this thing. I picked it up this weekend. It’s a conversion of course to look like a Jungle Carbine. I know it’s not. I always wanted a Lee Enfield in 7.62. Trigger is the best I have on any of my Garands, Enfield P14, of course a mosin and a A3. It’s in great condition and a sharp bright bore. The forend where the trigger guard goes in is cracked where the stock screw sits against the fore end. I’ve done bedding on rifles and prepped it awaiting the Acraglass. Assuming it it should old, but if it doesn’t what’s the best route for a bottom forend to get it back to shooting? Should I fill in the dimple with acraglass? See the link below for pictures. https://imgur.com/a/riVtJ6R

Shamu Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Admin Group Logo Designer / Donating Member Joined: April 25 2007 Location: MD, USA. Status: Offline Points: 20510	Post Options Post Reply Quote Shamu Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: April 01 2024 at 4:16pm
	Those are symptoms of poor bedding further back in "the draws" where the wood is "drawn up into the metal" of the action. Its one of the reasons why stocks & bolts are serial numbered to each other, because of the hand fitting. The rear of the forend is also split, this because the stock bolt with its square section front end has forced the wood apart , splitting it. These are serious faults, but fixable! There are several threads down in "Gunsmithing" detailing re bedding of SMLE stocks, each has slightly different techniques so I'd suggest poking about over there before going further & letting them guide you to your best techniques & materials. I have the complete disassembly guide if you need a .PDF of it & I'd suggest reading through that also as there are pitfalls to disassembly errors. It's too big to post to host here as either a regular post or a file upload, but if you PM me your e-mail I'll gladly send it to you direct.
	Don't shoot till you see the whites of their thighs. (Unofficial motto of the Royal Air Force)

Mayhem Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Senior Member Joined: February 06 2016 Location: Australia Status: Offline Points: 335	Post Options Post Reply Quote Mayhem Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: April 01 2024 at 4:33pm
	Biggest thing to know is not to try and 'lever' off the forestock. I has to come off parallel to the barrel/action. You may need to gently tap the wood down around the receiver. It can be one of those jobs where you wish you had three hands!
	.303 - Helping Englishmen express their feelings since 1889

Shamu Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Admin Group Logo Designer / Donating Member Joined: April 25 2007 Location: MD, USA. Status: Offline Points: 20510	Post Options Post Reply Quote Shamu Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: April 01 2024 at 4:35pm
	That & removing the forearm before the butt-stock screw! That's a very common cause of fracturing the back of the forend. Years back I made a tool for removing forends it was just 3 pieces of wood, 2 long & 1 shorter. the short one "bridged" the action & the 2 long ones were the very blunt "tines" on a 2 prong fork. The tops were exactly even, I glued & screwed them then used a chop saw to trim the top that way. The 2 long ones went up against the left & right top sides of the forend & you belted the top with a rubber mallet!
	Don't shoot till you see the whites of their thighs. (Unofficial motto of the Royal Air Force)

shiloh Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Senior Member Joined: January 08 2019 Location: Ontario, Canada Status: Offline Points: 3049	Post Options Post Reply Quote shiloh Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: April 02 2024 at 9:46am
	I like the looks of that rifle, with the rear sight and top wood left on. Very different in a cool way. Be careful, you might start a trend...

Shamu Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Admin Group Logo Designer / Donating Member Joined: April 25 2007 Location: MD, USA. Status: Offline Points: 20510	Post Options Post Reply Quote Shamu Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: April 02 2024 at 12:45pm
	The very short sight radius is a bit of a bear I'm told. Maybe a Lyman or similar rearsight further back?
	Don't shoot till you see the whites of their thighs. (Unofficial motto of the Royal Air Force)

Left_to_lobster_2020 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Newbie Joined: March 31 2024 Location: Michigan Status: Offline Points: 4	Post Options Post Reply Quote Left_to_lobster_2020 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: April 06 2024 at 4:46pm
	Well it went really well with the stock repairs. I repaired a couple of areas while I had everything out. I didn’t bed the rifle. I did it in sections and then hand filed / dremeled with a carbide bit carefully where I didn’t want the build up. Here is a example: https://imgur.com/a/n20z8F0 I used painters tape and it pulled some finish off, which is surprising. How do I blend it or what should I use? https://imgur.com/a/KV7qbKC I took everything down individual parts and put them in the sonicator and oiled everything back up. What beautiful engineering- by far the easiest gun to disassemble and reassemble. I watched videos on re-assembly. I didn’t torque anything just soy boy hand tight. Should I toque anything down? I’m shooting it tomorrow. I found some m80 X-tac loads. I’m going to shoot at 50, working up to 100 yards for groups. I’ll try 200y and 300y for gongs. I’ll report back. Thoughts?

Left_to_lobster_2020 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Newbie Joined: March 31 2024 Location: Michigan Status: Offline Points: 4	Post Options Post Reply Quote Left_to_lobster_2020 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: April 07 2024 at 8:24am
	Here is how I did on paper. The “x” is point of aim on the pictures. We had 1 gong hit at 200y out of 20 or so shots. https://imgur.com/a/13R6rQs