Wooden Stock Dryness

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   I have a sportarized Lithgow Mark III*
manufactured in 1941 that I owned and used deer hunting beginning in the late 50s. I
have no background in cleaning & maintaining guns, but am spending a lot of
time and effort learning about it trying to develop common sense instincts.
I only shoot at paper targets these days about 250 - 300 rounds per year, but that is subject to increasing. It has been several decades since I hunted outdoors where the gun could be subjected to rain, sleet, or snow.

 I had trouble removing the forestock for
routine maintenance recently, but through good advice from this Forum's members, I
successfully removed it. The interior
of the wooden forestock seemed awfully dry.

 Should I treat the interior of the wood with
something for the dryness that I perceived? E.g., trying to replace or
substitute something for natural oils? I am referring to the interior of the
forestock, but of course, I am interested in the exterior of the wood as well. My
concern is preventing deterioration and preserving the wood for future generations.

 I have seen the following recommended for
wooden stock maintenance:  Tung Oil,
Boiled Linseed Oil, Tru – Oil (Birchwood Casey), Carnuba Wax, Johnson's Paste Wax, and Rem Oil (for
poly coated stock exteriors).  On a TV
snippet, Larry Potterfield demonstrated the use of gun waxes, specifically using Renaissance Wax to the interior of
wooden barrel channels (as well as exterior of the wood and metal).

The literature for of these products appears say they protect AGAINST
moisture, not to cure dryness or replenish the wood. My highly recommended,
experienced, and apparently knowledgeable gunsmith said he uses Tung Oil to
refresh old wood, but recommended that I use True - Oil (Birchwood Casey) because
I would have to buy Tung Oil in such large quantities. Again, that product (Tru - Oil) appears
to protect against moisture. Its literature says nothing about adding oils to refurbish the wood.

What are your recommendations for the interior
(and exterior) of my 303's wood? Should I just leave it alone? Could the dryness that I perceived simply be a bunch of baloney? 
Please give me your thoughts. Thanks.

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The Rattler Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Groupie Joined: August 13 2013 Location: North Texas Status: Offline Points: 67	Post Options Post Reply Quote The Rattler Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Topic: Wooden Stock Dryness Posted: August 14 2014 at 8:23am
	I have a sportarized Lithgow Mark III* manufactured in 1941 that I owned and used deer hunting beginning in the late 50s. I have no background in cleaning & maintaining guns, but am spending a lot of time and effort learning about it trying to develop common sense instincts. I only shoot at paper targets these days about 250 - 300 rounds per year, but that is subject to increasing. It has been several decades since I hunted outdoors where the gun could be subjected to rain, sleet, or snow. I had trouble removing the forestock for routine maintenance recently, but through good advice from this Forum's members, I successfully removed it. The interior of the wooden forestock seemed awfully dry. Should I treat the interior of the wood with something for the dryness that I perceived? E.g., trying to replace or substitute something for natural oils? I am referring to the interior of the forestock, but of course, I am interested in the exterior of the wood as well. My concern is preventing deterioration and preserving the wood for future generations. I have seen the following recommended for wooden stock maintenance: Tung Oil, Boiled Linseed Oil, Tru – Oil (Birchwood Casey), Carnuba Wax, Johnson's Paste Wax, and Rem Oil (for poly coated stock exteriors). On a TV snippet, Larry Potterfield demonstrated the use of gun waxes, specifically using Renaissance Wax to the interior of wooden barrel channels (as well as exterior of the wood and metal). The literature for of these products appears say they protect AGAINST moisture, not to cure dryness or replenish the wood. My highly recommended, experienced, and apparently knowledgeable gunsmith said he uses Tung Oil to refresh old wood, but recommended that I use True - Oil (Birchwood Casey) because I would have to buy Tung Oil in such large quantities. Again, that product (Tru - Oil) appears to protect against moisture. Its literature says nothing about adding oils to refurbish the wood. What are your recommendations for the interior (and exterior) of my 303's wood? Should I just leave it alone? Could the dryness that I perceived simply be a bunch of baloney? Please give me your thoughts. Thanks.

Canuck Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Special Member Donating Member Joined: January 17 2012 Location: Cochrane, AB Status: Offline Points: 4021	Post Options Post Reply Quote Canuck Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: August 14 2014 at 8:46am
	I use raw linseed oil. I have found it takes quite some time to sink into the wood grain but once there it is sure to protect as well as nourish that dried out wood stock. Others I know use boiled linseed oil and I have used it as well with success.
	Castles made of sand slip into the sea.....eventually

SW28fan Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Special Member Donating Member Joined: July 02 2007 Location: Texas Status: Offline Points: 3389	Post Options Post Reply Quote SW28fan Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: August 14 2014 at 9:50am
	I use Boiled Linseed Oil on my rifles, raw linseed oil as Canuck says works very well but does take longer to dry. I have never tried tung oil but have heard good reports about it.
	Have a Nice Day If already having a nice day please disregard

DairyFarmer Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Senior Member Joined: July 19 2014 Location: In The South Status: Offline Points: 560	Post Options Post Reply Quote DairyFarmer Report Post Thanks(1) Quote Reply Posted: August 14 2014 at 6:23pm
	As far as possible I try not to get cleaning oil onto the stock. When I'm finished cleaning my rifles and put them into the safe, I give the a rubdown with Tru-Oil. It leaves quite a heavy residue on the stock but, after a few days, cannot be felt. Makes the safe smell great too. I have 2 Sauer 90's (.243 and .375H&H) that I have had for close on 30 years (the .375 was my late fathers). Since new I have only used Tru-Oil on them. They are, bar a few hunting dents, in perfect condition. About 20 years ago I re barrelled a Portuguese Mauser (the one in my avatar) to a 7x57. The gunsmith removed the bayonet mount off the front and sanded down the stock then treated with linseed oil. That got rid of the varnished finish of the stock and made it a darker brown rather than a yellow. I give this the same treatment as the others.

Shamu Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Admin Group Logo Designer / Donating Member Joined: April 25 2007 Location: MD, USA. Status: Offline Points: 20510	Post Options Post Reply Quote Shamu Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: August 14 2014 at 8:53pm
	I use 2~3 coats of Boiled Linseed oil internally. I avoid the Birchwood-Casey because it dries too fast, way too fast. BLO will dry overnight, but true oil is actually drying as you apply it, you can feel it getting sticky as you rub it in.
	Don't shoot till you see the whites of their thighs. (Unofficial motto of the Royal Air Force)

Sarge Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Senior Member Joined: April 20 2013 Location: England Status: Offline Points: 495	Post Options Post Reply Quote Sarge Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: August 15 2014 at 1:01am
	Our armourers always used 'Boiled Linseed Oil'... applied sparingly. Using a damp lint free cloth, apply two or three coats... maybe more, dependant upon the dryness of the weapons furniture. Allow to dry thoroughly between each application. In excessive heat conditions, the excess linseed oil will have a tendency to leach to the surface. All that is required is to wipe the surface clean. I follow the same procedure as our armourers.
	This is MY rifle, there are many like, but this one... is MINE!

Shamu Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Admin Group Logo Designer / Donating Member Joined: April 25 2007 Location: MD, USA. Status: Offline Points: 20510	Post Options Post Reply Quote Shamu Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: August 15 2014 at 4:54am
	Internally I just keep putting on a light coat till it is no longer absorbed totally overnight. 2~3 coats usually does the trick. I wipe any excess of in the morning & scrub with a harsh cloth like hessian or burlap, to burnish it & heat the surface for better curing. Externally I go "old school". I think someone way back when empirically worked out how to get the beast combination of filling sealing & drying. That is possibly the origin of the "Once a day for a week, once a week for a month, once a month for a year & then once a year for life." technique. As the wood became more filled the dry time was extended to allow a thick, even, cured surface to gradually build up while minimizing seepage.
	Don't shoot till you see the whites of their thighs. (Unofficial motto of the Royal Air Force)

mike16 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Groupie Joined: June 19 2014 Location: Bisbee Arizona Status: Offline Points: 83	Post Options Post Reply Quote mike16 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: September 04 2014 at 7:46am
	I have used boiled linseed oil on my Isreali Mauser's Birch stock. darkened it and yellowed it a bit . It looks good and all but it has lost a bit of the beautiful birch charm it had when it was much lighter. I found a quart can of real authentic Tung oil dating back to the 60's , came from Herters. Used it all up about 6 years ago. cant find any more. everything called Tung Oil now adays has got everything in it but Tung Oil. Where can you get real authentic pure Tung Oil?

Bear43 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Special Member Donating Member Joined: August 11 2010 Location: Doland, SD Status: Offline Points: 3500	Post Options Post Reply Quote Bear43 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: September 04 2014 at 10:31pm
	Pure Tung oil (and not "tung oil finishes") can still be found. Good alternative when you don't want to darken an original stock with BLO. Check this out on Amazon.

Shamu Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Admin Group Logo Designer / Donating Member Joined: April 25 2007 Location: MD, USA. Status: Offline Points: 20510	Post Options Post Reply Quote Shamu Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: September 05 2014 at 12:14am
	I just ordered a Boyds enfield forend. So far customer service has been lackluster, we'll see how the product shapes up when it arrives.
	Don't shoot till you see the whites of their thighs. (Unofficial motto of the Royal Air Force)

Bear43 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Special Member Donating Member Joined: August 11 2010 Location: Doland, SD Status: Offline Points: 3500	Post Options Post Reply Quote Bear43 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: September 05 2014 at 12:17am
	Boyd's has not had the best customer service ever since they moved to Mitche!!, SD several years back. They just lost some ground once they moved into a larger facility, I honestly think they tried to grow a bit too quickly. They were simply amazing back when they were located in Geddes, SD.

Shamu Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Admin Group Logo Designer / Donating Member Joined: April 25 2007 Location: MD, USA. Status: Offline Points: 20510	Post Options Post Reply Quote Shamu Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: September 05 2014 at 12:20am
	That's a shame. Hopefully the product is still good.
	Don't shoot till you see the whites of their thighs. (Unofficial motto of the Royal Air Force)