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MK1 LEC restoration

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Von Gruff View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Von Gruff Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June 17 2016 at 8:49pm
Originally posted by englishman_ca englishman_ca wrote:

The most difficult process in making a butt stock is drilling the bolt hole throgh accurately. 

I am making a jig mounted with two opposing drill presses to drill the two diameters. Another project amongst projects, but when I get it up and running, I'll be able to run one off for you no prob.
 
I have to say that I found drilling the bolt hole is rather a simple matter and have done near a dozen now on Lee Enfields (Lee Speed styled sporting rifles) and Martini's
 
A length of 12mm mild steel and another at 20 mm and getting someone with a lathe to do a little turning to drill the 20mm piece for the 12mm guide stud, with the 12mm piece having half its dia milled away for a about 50mm on one end and it is all set for you to finish making the cutting edges, chucking it in a drill and setting the blank for drilling. I had the ends of mine turned down for a 10mm drill chuck but use a 12mm drill now so it was only necessary to have had the 20mm piece turned down to fit the chuck.
 
 
The 20 mm length has a hacksaw cut made accross the face so the cutting edges can be filed in after the 12mm hole is made for the guide stud.
Simple set-up is with a 75x50 cramped to the back of the bench. I fixed a piece of 10mm material to the back of the 75x50 so it would be paralell to the back of the bench when cramped into position. With the 12mm drill bit having a half of its dia milled away and the cutting edge filed on it has a flat face that can be measured to so that the butt blank can be cramped into position (shimmed up to meet the center if the drill bit) so that the entry and exit points for the hole are also in line with the rear edge of the bench. With the long drill bit cradled at the rear and the front it has to go in a straight line. I have the front (short) guide block screwed to the back guide 75x50 with the longer one being a sliding guide which can be removed as it comes up to the fixed guide, which is also removed as the drill chuck reaches this point .
 
 
 
This is the end of the 12mm drill bit
The trailing edge is filed in shorter than the leading edge so it will cut propperly
 
This pic shows what I use for the bolt hole drills. On top is the headless bolt I set into the actions to facilitate the fitting of the stock socket stub. Then there is the 20mm counter bore with the 12mm guide stub and with the stock in the vise it is a simple matter to drill down to where I have marked the end of the counterbore length according to the length of the main action bolt. Next is the main drill bit and the counter bore bit for the bolt/socket thread thimble.
All in all a simple thing to do and very quick way to set up and accomplish the bolt hole ACCURATELY.
 
Von Gruff

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Von Gruff View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Von Gruff Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June 17 2016 at 9:04pm
One thing I forgot to mention is that I shaped a fillet of wood that is taped to the underside of the drill handle so the centerline of the drill remains constant right out to the end of the handle otherwise you can get a torque against the straight line of the drill bit if the handle gets out of the same plane. This is a very accurate way to get the holes drilled, is simple to set up and best of all cost very little to put the drill set together. The mild steel is very good and I have only given them one sharpen after about 10 holes drilled.
One thing I did do after the first few was to come back from the cutting edges of the 20mm bit and reduce the dia so there was not so much heat generated but that was a simple process and was done by spinning the bit in the drill and holding it against the belt grinder. I do give the bits a blast  with silicon spray which helps as well. but regular cleaning out of the hole is essential and as well as clearing the bit I give the hole a blast with the air gun to clear what stay in there as the bit is removed.
Von Gruff

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evanguy View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote evanguy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June 18 2016 at 5:04am
Englishman_ca, i see exactly what your saying, Thanks man, I'm glad you want to see this rifle as nice as i hope it can be, i would love a butt stock made by you from the same wood as the rest of the parts.

wow Von Gruff, good work on making the drill bits. also the jig, that seems like it would work very well. Thanks for the pics, it definitely gives me something to keep in my mind if i ever have to do this task, now that ive seen it, im sure i can do it (thats how i learn)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote englishman_ca Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June 19 2016 at 2:26pm
This is a first fit up for Evan's new front wood and one of his CNC made nose caps. The wood had been inletted to fit an original nose cap, this one just slide into place with one stiff tap to bring it home.

 
Fits like a charm. Now the wood can go on a diet and slim down to match the nose cap.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Canuck Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June 19 2016 at 2:35pm
It's such a pleasure seeing the handiwork of a true craftsman, I must say I am very impressed!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote evanguy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June 25 2016 at 8:05am
wow that nosecap and wood look great together, i cant wait for the forearm, hand guard and butt stock with fitted butt plate to show up, after that, its a mag cutoff and ill start browning the parts and assembling it. i cant believe how this has come together, if i was to omit the mag cut off, i could finish the rifle when the wood gets here.

wow, what a short time frame that was compared to what i expected

 and in the process i was able to help englishman_ca complete 5 carbines he had, some where waiting for parts for over ten years.

feels good man
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote PRB Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January 18 2021 at 11:58pm
I too have a LEC 1 1899 without the hole for the cleaning rod. I have a sportized version but I am in the hunt for the nose cap and the barrel band. I will worry about the wood later. I would really love to have one of the nose caps. Could you please help me out. It would be appreciated. I should mention that I am also in Nova Scotia. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jackfree Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July 11 2021 at 8:04pm
Originally posted by evanguy evanguy wrote:

wow that nosecap and wood look great together, i cant wait for the forearm, hand guard and butt stock with fitted butt plate to show up, after that, its a mag cutoff and ill start browning the parts and assembling it. i cant believe how this has come together, if i was to omit the mag cut off, i could finish the rifle when the wood gets here.

wow, what a short time frame that was compared to what i expected

 and in the process i was able to help englishman_ca complete 5 carbines he had, some where waiting for parts for over ten years.

feels good man
Amazing work! I am trying to restore my LEC Carbine as well, very helpful info and impress job. Wondering do you have more nosecap left over or is it possible to make some more? Very appreciate if you could help me out. 
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