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Sear engaging when bolt racked

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Armyfuel86 View Drop Down
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    Posted: March 13 2018 at 11:15pm
I just started to clean up and go over a 1915 SHT Mk III SMLE I acquired through a friend. Taking the trigger guard and assembly out to clean out some very old cosmoline, my sear spring fell out. I put it back in the proper position (it was a fight) as far as I can tell, but now the sear lever will not catch the bolt and cock. It is depressed anytime the trigger is installed and the bolt holding the trigger guard in, tightened down. Would anyone have any ideas? Should I try a new spring? the sear cocks the bolt if I don't put the trigger guard fully in, but once I put the trigger fully in, it depresses the sear.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Zed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March 14 2018 at 12:29pm
The shorter side of the spring goes to the magazine release. Don't think that you could fit it the wrong way around; but it does need to be in the recesses of both components. 
Did it operate properly before you removed the trigger guard for cleaning?
It would be worth getting a spare spring to test if you can't find anything obvious.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Shamu Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March 14 2018 at 1:22pm
It should have the long end snapped into the cut on the front of the trigger & the short end in the groove on the back of the magazine release.
If you remove the bolt & look down & forwards into the bolt raceway you should see the tip of the sear. it should drop below the flat bottom of the raceway as the trigger is pulled & "pop" back up about 1/16~1/8" proud as its released.

When assembling the trigger guard to the receiver & stock you have to "wiggle" the trigger to get it to seat properly, if you just slide it in the trigger can be on the wrong side of the sear, check that out too. Green to green is good, red to red not. (again this is my no4 Mk2 with the trigger bracket wot you don't got. But it lets me show the assembled parts together.)

This is a No4, but the No3 is close enough for it to work.



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