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Head space

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Guests Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February 22 2007 at 5:36am
I took the extractor off, but thats all I did.  Whats the trick in making the tool?

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TomcatPC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February 22 2007 at 11:25am
I ordered my bolt/striker removal tool from Gun Parts Corp. a few years back. It was a little under $10 (US). A little bonus is that it has a "reverse screw head" screwdriver head on one end of the "T" handle, that came in handy when removing the striker set screw on my No.4Mk.I*.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ed Hill Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February 22 2007 at 11:25am
CJ Rock, your math is off somewhere... if it closes on a .070, and you think you have .080, and you add .089, it'll be too tight ?  Anybody in the Southern hemisphere that is awake with coffee and doesn't have a cold , please chip in...  The .074 is the absolute max and where the military pulled them out of service, but it is considered safe to shoot. However, tighter is usually more accurate. As noted above, to use the gauge, you are feeling for the slightest resistance, you may be able to force it closed when in fact it passes. This is easier to feel with the bolt stripped.
Ed
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ed Hill Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February 22 2007 at 11:31am
I have a lovely diagram on how to make a bolt tool out of a 6mm 1/4 inch drive socket. but I'm not gonna learn how to post pictures tonight! If someone wants to post it, send me a email address and I'll send you the pictures.
Ed
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Guests Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February 23 2007 at 7:22am
well i think i am close to the .074 tolerance with a .070 field gage i can stick a piece paper in between the bolt head and the gage and it will tighten on the paper when closed.  not hard enough to make a mark on the paper so it must be close.  so if i get a bolt head that is .006 longer it should make my head space .074 or .072 .  It shouldn't be able to close on that .070 gage. anyway. 

Just thought I would record th progress, for history! 

Now I am going home to make Gumbo!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ed Hill Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February 24 2007 at 5:39am
Several people offered to post the diagram, but I managed to delete my private mail. I sent a copy to CJ Rock to post, thanks to everyone else!
If you want a copy sent to your home email, let me know and I'll send them.

Ed 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tony Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February 24 2007 at 8:58am
I figured headspace was the gap between Hoadies ears!  Now you got me confused.   Cry
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote hoadie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February 24 2007 at 9:25am
Originally posted by Ed Hill Ed Hill wrote:

Several people offered to post the diagram, but I managed to delete my private mail. I sent a copy to CJ Rock to post, thanks to everyone else!If you want a copy sent to your home email, let me know and I'll send them.Ed

If aint too much trouble, Ed - I'd like a gander @ that diagram
Hoadie
P.S: No Tony, its the open space within the cranium!(Twit!)
Loose wimmen tightened here
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tony Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February 24 2007 at 9:39am
Thats what I said ! Gap between the ears!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Cookie Monster Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February 24 2007 at 9:40am
Tony could also be called dead air space???
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ed Hill Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February 24 2007 at 10:24am
Hoadie, (and CM) PM me your email and I'll ship them out. The one diagram is quite large, and I haven;t been able to shrink it.
Ed
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tony Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February 24 2007 at 9:31pm
Ed can you send me a copy too please? Lad is studying engineering and it will be useful to him as well as me.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nomad660 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February 25 2007 at 11:22am

Earlier, Ed Hill posted "If it won't turn to the vertical position it needs some adjustment.."  I just picked a Savage No.4, and the bolt head is a #2.  The bolt is very resistant when closing with a round, and I tried swapping the entire bolt from my other Enfield with a #0.  It closes just fine.  If head space is the solution, I then noticed that when I change to other bolt heads, none turn past the vertical on the original bolt.  Only the bolt head that came with it does, yet presents the apparent head space issue.  So, what is the specific "adjustment"?  Why is it that this bolt is different and will not accept these other bolt heads? 

Thanks! 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote hoadie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February 25 2007 at 11:31am
Does ur bolt serial # match your barrel # ?
Hoadie
Loose wimmen tightened here
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ed Hill Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February 25 2007 at 12:02pm
Nomad 660, if you look at CJRocks photo on the 1st page of the thread, you'll see the photo that says "offset". This shows the bolt head going past the vertical when tightened. I suspect the threading is a little different on the new bolt. If the bolt head will only tighten to the vertical position, it will be be difficult to close the bolt ( turn down the bolt handle) because this will result in the bolt head being past the vertical position it is in when the bolt is open. Look at it a bit and it will make sense. The fix, (and if you are not experienced working on guns please have all work done or checked by a competent gunsmith) is to remove small amounts of material from the back of the bolt head where it mates against the bolt (Do Not Grind The Bolt) by grinding lightly on a flat surface. Just a small amount and then trying again on the bolt for fit. One problem with this is by removing material, you are decreasing the length of the bolt head slightly which increases headspace, which is what you were trying to fix in the first place. I'd check the new rifle for headspce with the # 1 bolthead, it sounds like someone just threw a bolt head on, or a different bolt if the #s don't match.

I hope this makes sense, I've been fight a viral crud ( the Drs. term) for about three weeks and the various medicines and cough syrups make me a little fuzzy. Ask if you have questions.
Ed   
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nomad660 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February 25 2007 at 3:36pm
No, it is not a matching SN, but I don't know that is that unusual for these old guns, is it? 
 
Ed, the bolt that came with the rifle, and only the #2 bolt head that it came with, DO turn past the vertical, and it is "offset", as shown in that picture.  But, only this one bolt head.  When I try other bolt heads, such as another #2 recently bought from Numrich, and also a #0 off my other Enfield's bolt, both of these bolt heads tighten on this bolt BEFORE getting to vertical.  Since I need the smaller bolt head anyway (the other bolt with its #0 closes fine), I can have a local gunsmith do as you suggest.  Or, I suppose I can buy another bolt and hope it is not threaded goofy like this one.   As mentioned, it is not a matching SN anyway.
 
Still, I don't understand why this bolt would be different in the first place.  Is there a known difference of these between any of the Enfields, whether Savage or British?  Somehow, the head bolt supplied with this bolt tightens properly.  I'm not aware of any differences between the Mk1* and others No4 Mk1's in this regard, so all No 4 bolts and any of the bolt heads should be totally interchangable, no?
 
Thanks again!
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