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Lee Enfield Bolt

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mausernut View Drop Down
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    Posted: September 11 2019 at 6:09pm
What kind of stone do you use to stone the bolt on a Lee Enfield  when fitting a new bolt?

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Zed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September 11 2019 at 11:36pm
I used  a fine "arkansas" stone. Used in jewelery. You can buy them on line.
I used a 10mm square section stone; its about 10 cm's long. With light oil to lubricate it a little.
It is better to go slowly with a fine stone such as this and do constatnt checks along the way. You may be looking at just 0.001" to make a difference.
I wrapped a piece of beer can around the shaft of the bolt to prevent sctratching it with the side of the stone.
"Engineers blue" paste for checking the contact area as you probably already know.
Pulling the bolt back into the lugs by hand can give a slightly off reading if there's some play in the bolt channel. So better to use an empty case add some tape to the head to just take up the head space and have the load going straight down the bolt.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Canuck Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September 12 2019 at 6:40am
In the past on such a task I have used 'candling', the soot from a burning candle instead of engineers' blue.   
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Shamu Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September 12 2019 at 7:17am
That works, so does "Sharpie". Basically anything you can put on that will stay put but abrade off cleanly.
Do protect the bolt BODY though as Zed mentions.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mausernut Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September 13 2019 at 6:01pm
Thanks guys
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Wiking5th Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September 22 2019 at 2:23pm
he!!o, new to this forum and also new to Enfields. I hope this will be the right place for this question.

I have a No1, Mk3. When I first try to open the bolt it is very hard to break over the bolt head from the bolt assembly. I have taken the bolt out and cleaned the head and front of the assembly good. Have applied a light amount of oil. The head when fully seated goes very slightly past the guide (sorry if my terminology is not correct). I have read where this is acceptable. As I try to hand break the head over there is an initial stick same as when the bolt is locked in place.

Any suggestions or ideas on what I need to check to see if I can't get a smoother bolt operation?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Shamu Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September 23 2019 at 7:41am
Let me see if I understand this correctly.
You are removing the bolt HEAD from the bolt BODY after its out of the rifle?

Or are you referring to "popping" the bolt head up to vertical so you can remove the whole thing from the action?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Wiking5th Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September 23 2019 at 7:59am
Originally posted by Shamu Shamu wrote:

Let me see if I understand this correctly.
You are removing the bolt HEAD from the bolt BODY after its out of the rifle?

Or are you referring to "popping" the bolt head up to vertical so you can remove the whole thing from the action?


The root problem is when I try to turn the cocking handle to chamber a round, the bolt head sticks in the locked down position. You have to really force it to pop up to slide the bolt assembly back.

Once the bolt assembly is removed from the rifle. When I turn the bolt head to remove from the rest of the bolt assembly there is a "sticking point" that have to exert pressure to get past at the very first.

I hope this better explains the problem.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote englishman_ca Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September 23 2019 at 8:22am
Just guessing by your description.Sticky jumpy bolt when you open and close it? Something feels like it is catching or sticking?

Make sure that rear of extractor claw spring is assembled correctly and is not sticking out too far out the back and catching on the bolt body as it goes past.

Cocking piece and bolt cam tracks. I refer to the two machined grooves at the back of the bolt underneath. There is a lot going on here when you open the bolt. The cams retract the striker slightly on opening.
The corresponding tab on the cocking piece needs to be in good condition too, not worn away and miss shapen. Same as with the pointed shape at the merge of the cam tracks in the bolt body. Not much can be done if worn, other than replacement. 
Wear here can make the bolt feel like it is catching on something and extra effort is needed to pop the bolt past and fully open. 

But it could be a number of other things too. Give us another description in your own words of what happens. You'll eventually learn the terminology. Take some pics if you can


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Shamu Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September 23 2019 at 9:10am
OK I misunderstood, thanks for clarifying.
Does it happen regardless of firing status (fired, unfired, empty chamber)? I assume it does from you description of the sticking point.
Let me check something though as your description is a bit vague.
This happens
as you lift the bolt handle UP (in the forward position & turned down) to extract a round?
or
with the bolt open & at the rear & you're trying to strip a round from the magazine to chamber it?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mausernut Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October 05 2019 at 10:41am
How much contact should the lugs have?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Shamu Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October 05 2019 at 3:11pm
I usually figure anything more than 30% but even on each lug is GTG.
You'll never get 100%, it has to do with the camming geometry of the lugs & recesses.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mausernut Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October 06 2019 at 9:50am
Kind of thought it would be hard to get full engagement.

Thanks for the info;

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Zed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October 06 2019 at 1:06pm
It's difficult to get equal contact on both lugs.
I checked the bolt contact on my No4Mk1 which is totally original; the No4Mk1/2 which is Fulton's regulated.
Both have slightly more contact on the long lug than the short one.
I fitted a new bolt to my No1MkIII* and achieved similar results with careful stoning.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Shamu Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October 06 2019 at 1:40pm
Yes it will never be a perfect match, just get as close as you can.
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