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Looking for a No4 bolt head

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Bear43 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bear43 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December 05 2013 at 1:26am
If I remember correctly the allowable overturn is 10 degrees. As far as shimming, I have no idea how effective that would be.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Canuck Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December 05 2013 at 1:51am
Thanks Bear! Now I need to get out my old high school protractor and start taking a reading on one of my #4's.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Alan de Enfield Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December 05 2013 at 3:21am
The actual allowable overturn is not to overturn by more than 20 degrees when assembled to the bolt.
The 20 degrees may be measured as 4.76mm (3/16”) from the left corner of the bolt head lug to the left corner of the bolt column.
 
Any overturn will lead to an increase in headspace - this is due to the fact that when the bolt head is bought back into line (when the bolt is closed in the action) there will be a 'gap', this gap means that the recoil is taken onto the threads, eventually the threads will peen over and the headspace will increase.
 
Think about the shaft of a chisel after repeated hammering
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Zed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December 05 2013 at 4:14am
I'm not sure if it would be possible or practical to shim behind the shoulder as it is not very large. A shim would have to be made of steel; brass would squash too easily in my opinion. We use very fine steel shims to adjust on certain car parts, but it would be difficult to get the correct size.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Canuck Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December 05 2013 at 4:14am
I see, that makes total sense. The bolt head I have measured almost 5/16th from the left corner of the lug to the bolt column but the threads look not peened over yet using a 10x power magnifying loupe. The .064 head space gauge will allow the bolt to be closed and locked but any gauge larger won't close at all. This #2 bolt lug measures .635 from the face to the rear of the lug and when installed onto the bolt shaft can be moved fore and aft very little at all. Both mating surfaces do not show any excessive wear and the bolt face that meets the she!! casing doesn't have that 'ring' produced from lots of firing. I cleaned then checked the threads on the lug and found very little if any 'peening' of the threads. The gun fires normally and the she!! casings don't show excessive deformation. The locking lugs look just fine too. Should I be concerned with this situation of the over clocking being past 3/16"? I should mention the gun is a #4/Mk1 1943 Maltby with non-matching bolt to action serial numbers.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Alan de Enfield Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December 05 2013 at 4:38am
Canuck - dont worry - shoot it. Ideally you'd replace the bolt head but nothing serious will happen if you dont
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Canuck Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December 05 2013 at 4:40am
Thanks Alan, I'll do just that.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jessehh Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December 06 2013 at 12:18pm
I really did luck out on this one. My overturn was about 18 degrees (didn't know to measure the distance from point A to point B) and my headspace was getting long in the tooth. I also needed a butt stock in the darker colour and ordered one from Apex that was discribed as coming off a rifle and might have dings and dents. No prblem I thought. What I got was an unissued butt stock with no dings in it and that needed to be fitted. All the edges of the wood were sharp and the socket needed to be filed to fit. I made a cheek rest for it that I used the original prints for and mounted that. It looks good but just don't look to close as you can see on the underside where I got a little careless. I still haven't made up my mind if I'm going with an old Weaver scope or a new Swift 1.5-4.5 scope. Opinions on which I should go for?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote petes Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December 06 2013 at 10:44pm
you got mags for nothing. your one lucky man.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jessehh Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December 07 2013 at 4:00am
I did. But to be fair, I have acquired two of his four Enfields through trades. Some were good for me and others were good for him. I have picked up a No1mk3*, a No4mk1* that was Indian refurbed in 1963, a 1938 Mauser k98, and a P-14. I had some patch collectors books that he needed and he had some unissued mags I sort of needed. I'm now trying to get his other No4 from him...I'm like a meth junkie when it comes to Enfields.
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