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MK1/2?

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devrep View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote devrep Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October 30 2020 at 7:33am
so if the the forend has upward pressure to keep it off the barrel (similar to my M1A) it should have some give pressing down on it.

anyone know what kind of wood this one has?  I read last night that several species were used.  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Honkytonk Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October 30 2020 at 7:46am
Excellent point on repo magazines. I've had of different designs and both were junk. One was very angular and bottom plate was a slide on/off design, which would fall off when it felt like it. Original magazines for a No4 are about $75 up here in Canada.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Goosic Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October 30 2020 at 7:47am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Honkytonk Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October 30 2020 at 8:04am
Goosic. Does this company ship to North America? I notice their five round No4 magazines are currently not available.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Goosic Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October 30 2020 at 9:37am
Yes they do. I have two ten round magazines and two five round magazines from them.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Shamu Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October 30 2020 at 10:22am
Originally posted by devrep devrep wrote:

so if the the forend has upward pressure to keep it off the barrel (similar to my M1A) it should have some give pressing down on it.

anyone know what kind of wood this one has?  I read last night that several species were used.  

I'm afraid theres still some confusion.
The forend pushes UP on the underside of the barrel with 5~7Lb of force, internally its relieved along the length except for a short section at the breech end & a "pad" which does the pushing at the muzzle end. The handguard does not contact it at all.
Your test to check this is to brace the stock & pull UP with a fishing scale or trigger pull gauge. It should lift from the wood at 5~7 Lbs indicated & drop back to bottom dead center when released.

Check forend fit better?
Won't hurt as detailed ^^  but the HANDGUARD is the big concern.
The thing is that Lee-Enfield bedding is critical. something "odd" at the muzzle may well indicate a problem elsewhere further back in the stock.

Magazine, yeah, see if he'll knock off $30 for the cost of replacement.
"Pro Mag" is the aftermarket brand to avoid like the plague.

The wood used looks like stained beech to me the "fish scale" grain at the wrist is characteristic of beech.
Don't shoot till you see the whites of their thighs. (Unofficial motto of the Royal Air Force)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote devrep Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October 30 2020 at 1:11pm
we were talking about the same thing, I was using the wrong terminology.  handguard is the 2 pcs on top.  thanks.
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devrep View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote devrep Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October 30 2020 at 1:20pm
just watched this video about the stock.  interesting.    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=073noIUERZU

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Goosic Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October 30 2020 at 4:15pm
I have a No4Mk1 that I did some forend stocking up to. As Bloke on the range indicated, there are contact points that might require some attention and there are non contact points that also might require some attention to.
If you do end up purchasing the rifle, check the condition of the rifling first and foremost. Secondly have the headspace checked by a proper gunsmith.  Once you have those sorted out then work on seeing how the rifle shoots and learn where it shoots. Make sure the upper and middle barrel bands are tight to the stock and that the upper handguard is not touching the front sight protector. Do not jump the gun and immediately go to trying to do any bedding to the forend. 
The following photos show a stocking up similar to what Bloke on the Range described. The contact point that the barrel makes just past the reinforce and at the muzzle are my preferred method.  I used a small 2x2 gauze strip and some epoxy to get the lightest of contact while still allowing for absolutely no contact between those points...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote britrifles Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October 30 2020 at 4:31pm
Originally posted by devrep devrep wrote:

the barrel was pretty dirty and I would like to run a brush thru it so I can see what is going on in there.  I guess my 7.62 brush will work.  and I will bring a small flashlight.  I'm hoping to slap my lathe back together in a few days and try to make a stepped bore gauge, if not the 7.72 round will have to do.

so here's what I need to check per all of your input:

1.  check that bolt serial number matches.  if not forget this rifle.
2.  check barrel for excessive wear and corrosion.  ideally should be .3025  to .3035.  5 groove barrel would be nice.
3.  check forend fit better but it's not a deal breaker.
4.  look at magazine better but it's all he has so not a deal breaker.

For the price he is asking, and by the looks of the rifle. the only deal breaker for me would be a shot out or badly pitted barrel.  The rest can be fixed, even incorrect headspace.  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote devrep Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October 30 2020 at 4:33pm
def seems more complex than many other rifles.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote A square 10 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October 30 2020 at 6:18pm
ok - now that we have all agreed that 762 and 308 and 3006 are all the same but 303 is not , please explain the early posts regarding the first three with relation to the latter , ive missed this connection in my lack of knowledge regarding accuracy that others here are proficient in , i suspect there might be others similarly confused 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Goosic Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October 30 2020 at 6:32pm
Originally posted by devrep devrep wrote:

and are you saying that the mag has to be matched to the rifle?  I would think you could use another mag as long as it was for this model but again I know nothing.
All Lee Enfield magazines were matched to the rifle during production. The magazine you have pictured was originally matched to a No1Mk111/* rifle and is not designed to work with a No4Mk1 rifle. If you find a correct No4 magazine, a small amount of fitting to the rifle may be needed to get it to feed properly. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote The Armourer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October 31 2020 at 12:29am
Armourers instruction for fitting a forend



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote The Armourer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October 31 2020 at 12:30am
Instructions page 2


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote britrifles Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October 31 2020 at 4:58am
Originally posted by A square 10 A square 10 wrote:

ok - now that we have all agreed that 762 and 308 and 3006 are all the same but 303 is not , please explain the early posts regarding the first three with relation to the latter , ive missed this connection in my lack of knowledge regarding accuracy that others here are proficient in , i suspect there might be others similarly confused 

Yes, I know it sounds rather confusing.  The reason I suggest using a .308 bullet rather than .311 bullet as a muzzle gage is that the .308 bullet is smaller and will more easily reveal badly worn lands of the rifling.  If a .308 bullet completely enters the muzzle the bore is badly worn (I.e it will be larger than .308 in diameter) and will not shoot well.  Reject that barrel. 

It is better to use proper gages as I stated, they are not expensive, about $5.00 each off amazon.  You can use them to check the minimum bore dimension by pushing them down the bore with a cleaning rod.  Be careful, they are hardened steel.  Clean and wipe with light oil first and stop pushing at the first feel of resistance.  

There are two classes of pin gages, a + and a - gage that will measure slightly larger than the diameter etched on the gage (by usually .0001 inch) and a gage that will measure slightly smaller.  It’s not necessary to have both sets for this purpose.  



This is a photo of the LB Mk 1/2 I purchased from A Square 10, after I removed approx .1 inch off the muzzle.  The edges of the rifling were worn to about .306 in right at the end of the barrel (pull thru cord wear, this barrel did not get much shooting, but it got a lot of cleaning, probably used in training) but the rest of the bore was .3025 with sharp rifling evident. 


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