Enfield-Rifles.com Homepage
Forum Home Forum Home > Enfields > Enfield Gunsmithing
  New Posts New Posts RSS Feed - MkIII* forearm repair
  FAQ FAQ  Forum Search   Events   Register Register  Login Login

MkIII* forearm repair

 Post Reply Post Reply Page  12>
Author
Message
Xpert16 View Drop Down
Groupie
Groupie
Avatar

Joined: May 30 2010
Location: Tennesse, US
Status: Offline
Points: 55
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Xpert16 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: MkIII* forearm repair
    Posted: April 24 2020 at 1:17pm

I have started a repair on a damaged MkIII stock with some serious issues.  The area around the front trigger guard screw had a chunk missing and the left recoil lug has cracked front to rear and separated. I fixed the screw area with a new block of walnut and epoxied in place. The left recoil lug is not so straight forward. I tapped out the broken piece and cleaned good with acetone.  I am thinking I should epoxy it back in place then bed that area with JB Weld.  Not sure if the traditional fix with wood blocks and peg would work in this case. Thoughts?

Back to Top
Sponsored Links


Back to Top
pisco View Drop Down
Senior Member
Senior Member
Avatar

Joined: November 21 2018
Location: australia
Status: Offline
Points: 136
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pisco Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April 24 2020 at 1:38pm
i know it’s not traditional fix but it works when i glue wood in like that i drill and pin then glue the pins in place i clean up the stock bolt keeper and glue it in place if need be cramp the wood together
and yes i do bed the action 
the wood on my smles has had a hard life and my wife would nut me if i lashed out on new wood at $500 a set i use 2 of my rifles quite offen with cast bullets and have no problems
Back to Top
Honkytonk View Drop Down
Senior Member
Senior Member
Avatar

Joined: December 30 2017
Location: Brandon Mb
Status: Offline
Points: 2975
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Honkytonk Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April 24 2020 at 4:02pm
As you only need one nut, it's easier to ask forgiveness than it is to get permission!
Back to Top
pisco View Drop Down
Senior Member
Senior Member
Avatar

Joined: November 21 2018
Location: australia
Status: Offline
Points: 136
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote pisco Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April 24 2020 at 10:56pm
she reckons i’m finished with both of them
Back to Top
Xpert16 View Drop Down
Groupie
Groupie
Avatar

Joined: May 30 2010
Location: Tennesse, US
Status: Offline
Points: 55
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Xpert16 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April 29 2020 at 1:34pm
While doing this project I noticed that the rear inside edge of the forearm wood is very close on one side to the sear assembly. It’s not actually touching and doesn’t affect the trigger pull but it seems a bit odd. I placed a shim on top of the opposite side of the draws to no effect. Not sure that it matters as the barrel appears to be perfectly straight in the forearm channel and nothing is moving. Could I possibly be  missing something that is wrong and needs attention?
Back to Top
Goosic View Drop Down
Senior Member
Senior Member
Avatar

Joined: September 12 2017
Location: Phoenix Arizona
Status: Offline
Points: 3634
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Goosic Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April 29 2020 at 2:11pm
That should not matter once the trigger guard is in place...
Back to Top
Shamu View Drop Down
Admin Group
Admin Group
Avatar
Logo Designer / Donating Member

Joined: April 25 2007
Location: MD, USA.
Status: Offline
Points: 12041
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Shamu Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April 29 2020 at 2:53pm
As long as the sear resets you should be fine. BUT it should be tested assembled. Just remove the bolt, look down in the raceway & play with the trigger, you should see it raise & lower both slowly & fast.
Don't shoot till you see the whites of their thighs. (Unofficial motto of the Royal Air Force)
Back to Top
Xpert16 View Drop Down
Groupie
Groupie
Avatar

Joined: May 30 2010
Location: Tennesse, US
Status: Offline
Points: 55
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Xpert16 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April 29 2020 at 4:57pm
Thanks guys. I appreciate your feedback. It does work without issue. I was just a little thrown back when I first noticed it.
Back to Top
britrifles View Drop Down
Senior Member
Senior Member
Avatar

Joined: February 03 2018
Location: USA
Status: Online
Points: 1824
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote britrifles Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April 29 2020 at 5:18pm
It looks to me that the action body is slightly rotated in the forend.  Is it evenly sitting on the rear horizontal receiver bearing points?  You may need to scrape the right side a hair or two.  See how it aligns with the trigger guard and front screw snugged down as Sham suggested. 
Back to Top
Stumpkiller View Drop Down
Senior Member
Senior Member
Avatar

Joined: April 03 2020
Location: Port Crane, NY
Status: Offline
Points: 119
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Stumpkiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April 29 2020 at 7:16pm
I'm new here; but hopefully I bring new insights.  And I'm 60 and have made do with lots of things.  I'll use a relevant comparison.

I have a 1956 Ford 640 tractor. Some folks restore them to "issue" and use as much original to make a restoration for parades and displays.  Some folks, like me, recognize an old tractor can be made to soldier on - improved even - because they have life left in them and cost 1/6 of what a new tractor of similar capabilities could do.  Mine is converted to 12v (originals were 6v) and 100% functioning even though I have a modern ignition coil and parts from before and after the 640 was sold (many 8N, Jubilee and later New Holland components will do).

I use mine to mow a field with a 5' deck, trails and a shooting range on my property, and shag firewood; sold the two bottom plow after I got the garden area worked.  And, happiest duty of all, bring a field-dressed deer off the hill in the carry-all.  I don't use it as a museum display of the 1956 Ford 640 or to pull floats in parades.  It still earns a living.

What will your rifle be and do?  
Charlie P.

Life is not about how fast you run, or how high you climb, but how well you bounce.
Back to Top
Xpert16 View Drop Down
Groupie
Groupie
Avatar

Joined: May 30 2010
Location: Tennesse, US
Status: Offline
Points: 55
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Xpert16 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April 30 2020 at 7:22am
 Hi Stumpkiller. That’s a very good analogy. I am not a target shooter. I enjoy shooting my Enfields for pleasure and want to be able to maximize their accuracy within limits. I want to keep the rifles as original as possible-that’s part of my enjoyment.  My primary concern with this rifle is restoring reasonable accuracy while preventing the stock from breaking again. I epoxied the broken piece back in place and all looks fine but I’m thinking I should bed that surface with something like JB Weld to protect it.

I’m going to reassemble today and see if tightening everything up makes a difference as Shamu suggested.

I agree with Britrifles that it appears to be cocked to one side. I actually placed a cardboard shim on the opposite side of the bearing surface of the trigger guard to see if it would pull it over but I now realize based on his comments, that’s not the surface I need to address. The barrel does appear to be sitting straight in the channel, however I did notice that when fully assembled and snug, the muzzle barely touches the opening of the nose cap at approximately 1:00 position instead of 12:00. Thanks to all for the comments.

Back to Top
Xpert16 View Drop Down
Groupie
Groupie
Avatar

Joined: May 30 2010
Location: Tennesse, US
Status: Offline
Points: 55
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Xpert16 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April 30 2020 at 12:40pm
So I have been looking at this issue today and it all points to uneven bearing on the draws. I can kick myself now for ever swapping stocks on this rifle as the stock I had initially was most likely fitted by an armorer.

Any way, the draw on the right side was apparently not making contact which is most likely what broke the draw on the left side. I shimmed the right side and experimented with differing thicknesses and the off-centered sear corrected.

The issue now is how to address the bearing surfaces. Can these be shimmed then shot or is the only way to address is cutting them out and glueing in new wood? How is the best way to determine if the bearing pressure is equal side to side?
Back to Top
Shamu View Drop Down
Admin Group
Admin Group
Avatar
Logo Designer / Donating Member

Joined: April 25 2007
Location: MD, USA.
Status: Offline
Points: 12041
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Shamu Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April 30 2020 at 2:03pm
I think you're misunderstanding the bedding of the L-E a little.
Yes, that will solve the rotational issue. However it will create a different action bedding one & may effect your trigger pull too.
It may work, but you probably need to also have shims on the same side of the action along the side of the magazine well (in, or on, the wood) you will also need to shim the front adjacent to the magazine well, & the area round the "King Screw" & at the rear of the action to match it.
Then see if you still have a first & second pressure you can live with.
You MAY be better removing from the other side, instead?
Don't shoot till you see the whites of their thighs. (Unofficial motto of the Royal Air Force)
Back to Top
Goosic View Drop Down
Senior Member
Senior Member
Avatar

Joined: September 12 2017
Location: Phoenix Arizona
Status: Offline
Points: 3634
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Goosic Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April 30 2020 at 2:22pm
If you do intend to keep that shim in place shown in the photo, expect that stock to crack. There is a specific way to bed the stock on a No1Mk111 and that is not the correct  way.  There are folk on here that can assist with that so you can get the most out of what you currently have.
Back to Top
Xpert16 View Drop Down
Groupie
Groupie
Avatar

Joined: May 30 2010
Location: Tennesse, US
Status: Offline
Points: 55
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Xpert16 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April 30 2020 at 2:29pm
Thanks Shamu. You’re right. I feel like I’m chasing my tail now. Question. If I take wood off the left side to evenly distribute recoil pressure, won’t this further loosen everything up? The stock easily comes off now without any need to tap it down. The shim has tightened it up. I just shimmed it to see if that was the issue and it appears to be. If I took off wood on the left side to even it up, how could I make it tighter against the back?
Back to Top
britrifles View Drop Down
Senior Member
Senior Member
Avatar

Joined: February 03 2018
Location: USA
Status: Online
Points: 1824
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote britrifles Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April 30 2020 at 6:16pm
No. 1 and No. 4 rifles you want firm and even contact of the forend bearing on left and right receiver lugs (draws) and the rear surface of the forend on the receiver wrist.  You should not be able to slide the forend fore and aft on the barreled receiver with the main screw removed.  These surfaces are not parallel and act as a wedge to securely hold the barreled action in to the forend when the front trigger guard screw is snugged down.  

Now, I think your other issue with the sear not centered into the slot in the forend may be related to the horizontal bearing surfaces of the receiver to the forend, nothing to do with the draws.   But before you start slicing or scraping the high side with a chisel, bring the receiver in firm contact with the forend with the front trigger guard screw.  Make sure you feel no drag pulling the trigger with the bolt removed.  If there is a problem, you won’t fix it by messing with the draws lug contact, this has nothing to do with this problem.  

It’s quite easy to fix a problem of uneven recoil lug (draws) contact with bedding compound, and you can also deal with the rear angled vertical surface of the forend at the same time.  When you apply bedding compound, don’t overly tighten the front trigger guard screw.  Then chisel our any “squeeze out” of the bedding compound.  




Back to Top
 Post Reply Post Reply Page  12>
  Share Topic   

Forum Jump Forum Permissions View Drop Down

Forum Software by Web Wiz Forums® version 12.01
Copyright ©2001-2018 Web Wiz Ltd.