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MkIII* forearm repair |
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Shamu ![]() Admin Group ![]() ![]() Logo Designer / Donating Member Joined: April 25 2007 Location: MD, USA. Status: Offline Points: 13034 |
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Pretty much what britrifles has said. If you go with the bedding compound I'd put a thin shim of greased plastic or sheet metal in between the binding side & the wood so it CAN't twist as it cures, then remove it after ensuring a clearance in that area?
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Don't shoot till you see the whites of their thighs. (Unofficial motto of the Royal Air Force)
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Xpert16 ![]() Groupie ![]() ![]() Joined: May 30 2010 Location: Tennesse, US Status: Offline Points: 55 |
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Thanks guys. I’m going to get back on the project Monday. Going to try and hunt turkeys this weekend.
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Shamu ![]() Admin Group ![]() ![]() Logo Designer / Donating Member Joined: April 25 2007 Location: MD, USA. Status: Offline Points: 13034 |
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Good idea take a break & see if some kind of inspiration comes to you.
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Don't shoot till you see the whites of their thighs. (Unofficial motto of the Royal Air Force)
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britrifles ![]() Senior Member ![]() ![]() Joined: February 03 2018 Location: Atlanta, GA Status: Offline Points: 2623 |
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Thats good advice. I think I spend more time thinking about how to fix something than it takes to do it. Usually at night when I’m trying to sleep...
I’ve yet to tackle a proper draws wood insert repair. The forend I repaired for the No. 4 Mk 1/2 Long Branch had worked loose and was shot that way too many times and hammered back the wood bearing surfaces a bit before I got it. The forend could be slid fore/aft at least 1/16 inch. So far, the bedding compound (epoxy) has held up well. ![]() I’ve shot thousands of rounds (probably over 15,000) thru my Fulton No. 4, which had a wood insert repair of the draws likely done by Fulton’s, and it’s still nice and snug. |
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MJ11 ![]() Senior Member ![]() ![]() Joined: September 18 2008 Location: A warm beach Status: Offline Points: 1600 |
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I have a similar repair to the OP's king screw support bushing area. ![]() This rifle has never been fired but the dry beach wood is fragile and at some point before it came too me someone forced assembly and caused this. This is one off three projects and a bit down the road. After the repair a deep treatment with 50/50 linseed and turpentine soaking over a long period I will risk shooting it for the first time with a reduced loading at first. I also will install the set of original brass recoil plates I have in stock. ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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The Spartans do not ask how many the enemies are but where they are
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Xpert16 ![]() Groupie ![]() ![]() Joined: May 30 2010 Location: Tennesse, US Status: Offline Points: 55 |
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Back on this project after being pulled away for a few days. I have worked on the parallel bedding surfaces and the tilt has definitely improved. Some trial and error to get it to the point that it doesn’t wobble. Question. Without draw contact forcing the stock back against the wrist area, how do you get it to push back before you apply the bedding compound?
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pisco ![]() Senior Member ![]() ![]() Joined: November 21 2018 Location: australia Status: Offline Points: 163 |
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I bed the back of the forend to fill the gap in front of the wrist
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Xpert16 ![]() Groupie ![]() ![]() Joined: May 30 2010 Location: Tennesse, US Status: Offline Points: 55 |
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Thank you, that should work fine.
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pisco ![]() Senior Member ![]() ![]() Joined: November 21 2018 Location: australia Status: Offline Points: 163 |
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how big of gap have you got
It made my forend tight I hang on to the wood around the action and use a plastic hammer to tap the metal off
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Xpert16 ![]() Groupie ![]() ![]() Joined: May 30 2010 Location: Tennesse, US Status: Offline Points: 55 |
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Not much. Only one to two one-thousands of an inch- I can see light where before trying to level out everything, there was none. I’m trying to get a chance to start back on this project this week. I’ve had a few home maintenance tasks take precedence.
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