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Jonnybravo View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jonnybravo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July 22 2020 at 6:10am
.....and then there is a parkerizing!


Interesting stuff....I hope someone here can recommend a true to original/accurate finish .
Thanks,
Dave
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Jonnybravo View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jonnybravo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July 22 2020 at 6:28am
here is an example of the Parkerizing finish. It is on the barrel, receiver and mag. Does his seem to be close to an original finish/color?
Thanks,
Dave
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jonnybravo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July 22 2020 at 8:10am
it is hard to find anything on the original color and finish on a 1943 BSA......would appreciate help on this. As with my 69 Mach 1 parts restoration.....if I have to paint it....might as well paint it the original color/ sheen.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jonnybravo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July 22 2020 at 8:13am
to answer a previous question.....yes it is 24.5” long barrel, and yes it has bayonet lug.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Shamu Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July 22 2020 at 8:19am
This is a much later (1955) rifle but the paint is exactly the same.
Its a semi-matte or eggshe!! black.
A friend of mine did a restore with either Ceramakote or Duracote (I forget which) & it was perfect. They ARE a heat cured paint though so you'd need some way of heating the painted parts.
I don't believe you can Parkerize over existing Parkerising & it's very tough to remove in a non-destructive way. You may be better off just cleaning the surface & over painting it.
Don't shoot till you see the whites of their thighs. (Unofficial motto of the Royal Air Force)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Goosic Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July 22 2020 at 8:52am
Originally posted by Jonnybravo Jonnybravo wrote:

it is hard to find anything on the original color and finish on a 1943 BSA......would appreciate help on this. As with my 69 Mach 1 parts restoration.....if I have to paint it....might as well paint it the original color/ sheen.

Shamu had stated earlier that the rifles were painted with a hard to find Suncorite. The closest you will get to matching that is by using VHT header paint or Barbecue Grill paint. 
Another finish the rifles used was to have them heated to a glowing orange color and then dipped in oil. 
Oil Blackened and Suncorite paint are your two old school original forms of finishes.
 In my supplied photo, I used four bottles of Birchwood Casey Super Blue to get as close to as possible to an oil blackened finish on my 1943 No4Mk1* Savage without having to resort to heating the rifle to 750-900 degrees farenheit and then dipping it in used engine oil.
You can go with Parkerizing or whatever finish you prefer,the choice is ultimately yours to begin with. 


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote britrifles Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July 22 2020 at 9:55am

[/QUOTE]

So are these pictures of your refinished job or are you showing the phosphate finish? I’ve done cold bluing that has lasted 30+ years.....is there anything that allows for a black phosphate looking finish?
[/QUOTE]

Dave, the phosphate is a dull grey finish.  The photos are the Perma Blue finish, and quite black as shown in the photo.   The Perma Blue instructions call about complete removal of the old finish system, down to bare metal.  


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Jonnybravo View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jonnybravo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July 22 2020 at 11:28am
thanks for the pictures! Called DuraCoat’s firearm dept and decided that their standard color called “Parker #6” is a very close match for the BSA enfield . It is a parkerized color....and not their Parkerized coating which is a little different . About a week and a half till paint arrives. Will post progress pics as it happens. 

Last paint question......which parts should be the same color? Magazine, bolt parts, swivels forend bands and screws?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Shamu Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July 22 2020 at 12:36pm
Pretty much all the metal except the magazine spring & follower (blued) & the bolt head (in the white). The cocking piece is blued as well.
Don't shoot till you see the whites of their thighs. (Unofficial motto of the Royal Air Force)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote englishman_ca Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July 22 2020 at 2:31pm

I have had good luck with oil blackening. But the temperature I take the metal up to is only to around 450f (straw to brown colour) well below critical temp for having any effect on the heat treatment. Multiple passes will get it as black as I want.

Oil blackened repop nose cap on left.

Oil blackening is as tough as nails. Once it is on there, it needs blasting or sanding to get it off. There is a technique to getting it evenly dark without streaks or spots. With careful preparation (linnishing) and done right it is impossible to tell from a factory finish.

The other finish that I use is slow rust browning (bluing).

Nothing out of a bottle or can will replace elbow grease and patience.

Two great finish techniques to have in your tool kit.
I can use either finish to make a part look mint condition, or can be taken back to replicate age and honest wear.

Now that being said, I own more than one rifle that has a temporary coating of black rattle can paint (Tremclad) as corrosion protection fr om the elements and hard use in the bush. Been temporary for about ten years now.



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Look to your front, mark your target when it comes!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote The Armourer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July 22 2020 at 11:58pm

Here is how it was originally done on the SMLE.
Many of the original ingredients are carcinogenic so it would be very difficult today to be able to recreate the 'witches-brew'



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jonnybravo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July 23 2020 at 3:28pm
so...parts came in and went on this morning. I am dry impressed with the action on this piece. Very smooth. Also ran it to a gunsmith for a once over and headspace check....turns out he didn’t / couldn’t find the gauzes he thought he had. However, he did think the finish (Gray) was original. He also suggested trying the go/no go gauge first. I’m not sure where to get one(I’d be willing to pay shipping both ways if one is up for loaning out).  I still need to the 2 screws for the rear charging handle to set the firing pin. Is the a special tool for screwing the firing pin in or does that get screwed in all the way by hand?
Thanks,
Dave
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Shamu Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July 23 2020 at 4:40pm
Its screwed in till the "stop collar" contacts the internal shoulder in the bolt head.
Uncocked the pin should protrude between 0.040" & 0.50".
Remember the "scallop' should align with the locking screw head. in the back end
Don't shoot till you see the whites of their thighs. (Unofficial motto of the Royal Air Force)
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