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MkIII* forearm repair

Printed From: Enfield-Rifles.com
Category: Enfields
Forum Name: Enfield Gunsmithing
Forum Description: Submit any how-to's or other gunsmithing suggestions here.
URL: http://www.enfield-rifles.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=10524
Printed Date: August 04 2020 at 5:07am
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Topic: MkIII* forearm repair
Posted By: Xpert16
Subject: MkIII* forearm repair
Date Posted: April 24 2020 at 1:17pm

I have started a repair on a damaged MkIII stock with some serious issues.  The area around the front trigger guard screw had a chunk missing and the left recoil lug has cracked front to rear and separated. I fixed the screw area with a new block of walnut and epoxied in place. The left recoil lug is not so straight forward. I tapped out the broken piece and cleaned good with acetone.  I am thinking I should epoxy it back in place then bed that area with JB Weld.  Not sure if the traditional fix with wood blocks and peg would work in this case. Thoughts?




Replies:
Posted By: pisco
Date Posted: April 24 2020 at 1:38pm
i know it’s not traditional fix but it works when i glue wood in like that i drill and pin then glue the pins in place i clean up the stock bolt keeper and glue it in place if need be cramp the wood together
and yes i do bed the action 
the wood on my smles has had a hard life and my wife would nut me if i lashed out on new wood at $500 a set i use 2 of my rifles quite offen with cast bullets and have no problems


Posted By: Honkytonk
Date Posted: April 24 2020 at 4:02pm
As you only need one nut, it's easier to ask forgiveness than it is to get permission!


Posted By: pisco
Date Posted: April 24 2020 at 10:56pm
she reckons i’m finished with both of them


Posted By: Xpert16
Date Posted: April 29 2020 at 1:34pm
While doing this project I noticed that the rear inside edge of the forearm wood is very close on one side to the sear assembly. It’s not actually touching and doesn’t affect the trigger pull but it seems a bit odd. I placed a shim on top of the opposite side of the draws to no effect. Not sure that it matters as the barrel appears to be perfectly straight in the forearm channel and nothing is moving. Could I possibly be  missing something that is wrong and needs attention?


Posted By: Goosic
Date Posted: April 29 2020 at 2:11pm
That should not matter once the trigger guard is in place...


Posted By: Shamu
Date Posted: April 29 2020 at 2:53pm
As long as the sear resets you should be fine. BUT it should be tested assembled. Just remove the bolt, look down in the raceway & play with the trigger, you should see it raise & lower both slowly & fast.


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Don't shoot till you see the whites of their thighs. (Unofficial motto of the Royal Air Force)


Posted By: Xpert16
Date Posted: April 29 2020 at 4:57pm
Thanks guys. I appreciate your feedback. It does work without issue. I was just a little thrown back when I first noticed it.


Posted By: britrifles
Date Posted: April 29 2020 at 5:18pm
It looks to me that the action body is slightly rotated in the forend.  Is it evenly sitting on the rear horizontal receiver bearing points?  You may need to scrape the right side a hair or two.  See how it aligns with the trigger guard and front screw snugged down as Sham suggested. 


Posted By: Stumpkiller
Date Posted: April 29 2020 at 7:16pm
I'm new here; but hopefully I bring new insights.  And I'm 60 and have made do with lots of things.  I'll use a relevant comparison.

I have a 1956 Ford 640 tractor. Some folks restore them to "issue" and use as much original to make a restoration for parades and displays.  Some folks, like me, recognize an old tractor can be made to soldier on - improved even - because they have life left in them and cost 1/6 of what a new tractor of similar capabilities could do.  Mine is converted to 12v (originals were 6v) and 100% functioning even though I have a modern ignition coil and parts from before and after the 640 was sold (many 8N, Jubilee and later New Holland components will do).

I use mine to mow a field with a 5' deck, trails and a shooting range on my property, and shag firewood; sold the two bottom plow after I got the garden area worked.  And, happiest duty of all, bring a field-dressed deer off the hill in the carry-all.  I don't use it as a museum display of the 1956 Ford 640 or to pull floats in parades.  It still earns a living.

What will your rifle be and do?  


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Charlie P.

Life is not about how fast you run, or how high you climb, but how well you bounce.


Posted By: Xpert16
Date Posted: April 30 2020 at 7:22am
 Hi Stumpkiller. That’s a very good analogy. I am not a target shooter. I enjoy shooting my Enfields for pleasure and want to be able to maximize their accuracy within limits. I want to keep the rifles as original as possible-that’s part of my enjoyment.  My primary concern with this rifle is restoring reasonable accuracy while preventing the stock from breaking again. I epoxied the broken piece back in place and all looks fine but I’m thinking I should bed that surface with something like JB Weld to protect it.

I’m going to reassemble today and see if tightening everything up makes a difference as Shamu suggested.

I agree with Britrifles that it appears to be cocked to one side. I actually placed a cardboard shim on the opposite side of the bearing surface of the trigger guard to see if it would pull it over but I now realize based on his comments, that’s not the surface I need to address. The barrel does appear to be sitting straight in the channel, however I did notice that when fully assembled and snug, the muzzle barely touches the opening of the nose cap at approximately 1:00 position instead of 12:00. Thanks to all for the comments.



Posted By: Xpert16
Date Posted: April 30 2020 at 12:40pm
So I have been looking at this issue today and it all points to uneven bearing on the draws. I can kick myself now for ever swapping stocks on this rifle as the stock I had initially was most likely fitted by an armorer.

Any way, the draw on the right side was apparently not making contact which is most likely what broke the draw on the left side. I shimmed the right side and experimented with differing thicknesses and the off-centered sear corrected.

The issue now is how to address the bearing surfaces. Can these be shimmed then shot or is the only way to address is cutting them out and glueing in new wood? How is the best way to determine if the bearing pressure is equal side to side?


Posted By: Shamu
Date Posted: April 30 2020 at 2:03pm
I think you're misunderstanding the bedding of the L-E a little.
Yes, that will solve the rotational issue. However it will create a different action bedding one & may effect your trigger pull too.
It may work, but you probably need to also have shims on the same side of the action along the side of the magazine well (in, or on, the wood) you will also need to shim the front adjacent to the magazine well, & the area round the "King Screw" & at the rear of the action to match it.
Then see if you still have a first & second pressure you can live with.
You MAY be better removing from the other side, instead?


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Don't shoot till you see the whites of their thighs. (Unofficial motto of the Royal Air Force)


Posted By: Goosic
Date Posted: April 30 2020 at 2:22pm
If you do intend to keep that shim in place shown in the photo, expect that stock to crack. There is a specific way to bed the stock on a No1Mk111 and that is not the correct  way.  There are folk on here that can assist with that so you can get the most out of what you currently have.


Posted By: Xpert16
Date Posted: April 30 2020 at 2:29pm
Thanks Shamu. You’re right. I feel like I’m chasing my tail now. Question. If I take wood off the left side to evenly distribute recoil pressure, won’t this further loosen everything up? The stock easily comes off now without any need to tap it down. The shim has tightened it up. I just shimmed it to see if that was the issue and it appears to be. If I took off wood on the left side to even it up, how could I make it tighter against the back?


Posted By: britrifles
Date Posted: April 30 2020 at 6:16pm
No. 1 and No. 4 rifles you want firm and even contact of the forend bearing on left and right receiver lugs (draws) and the rear surface of the forend on the receiver wrist.  You should not be able to slide the forend fore and aft on the barreled receiver with the main screw removed.  These surfaces are not parallel and act as a wedge to securely hold the barreled action in to the forend when the front trigger guard screw is snugged down.  

Now, I think your other issue with the sear not centered into the slot in the forend may be related to the horizontal bearing surfaces of the receiver to the forend, nothing to do with the draws.   But before you start slicing or scraping the high side with a chisel, bring the receiver in firm contact with the forend with the front trigger guard screw.  Make sure you feel no drag pulling the trigger with the bolt removed.  If there is a problem, you won’t fix it by messing with the draws lug contact, this has nothing to do with this problem.  

It’s quite easy to fix a problem of uneven recoil lug (draws) contact with bedding compound, and you can also deal with the rear angled vertical surface of the forend at the same time.  When you apply bedding compound, don’t overly tighten the front trigger guard screw.  Then chisel our any “squeeze out” of the bedding compound.  






Posted By: Shamu
Date Posted: May 01 2020 at 7:28am
Pretty much what britrifles has said.
If you go with the bedding compound I'd put a thin shim of greased plastic or sheet metal in between the binding side & the wood so it CAN't twist as it cures, then remove it after ensuring a clearance in that area?


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Don't shoot till you see the whites of their thighs. (Unofficial motto of the Royal Air Force)


Posted By: Xpert16
Date Posted: May 01 2020 at 12:53pm
Thanks guys. I’m going to get back on the project Monday. Going to try and hunt turkeys this weekend. 


Posted By: Shamu
Date Posted: May 01 2020 at 1:39pm
Good idea take a break & see if some kind of inspiration comes to you.


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Don't shoot till you see the whites of their thighs. (Unofficial motto of the Royal Air Force)


Posted By: britrifles
Date Posted: May 01 2020 at 2:09pm
 Thats good advice.  I think I spend more time thinking about how to fix something than it takes to do it. Usually at night when I’m trying to sleep...

I’ve yet to tackle a proper draws wood insert repair.  The forend I repaired for the No. 4 Mk 1/2 Long Branch had worked loose and was shot that way too many times and hammered back the wood bearing surfaces a bit before I got it.  The forend could be slid fore/aft at least 1/16 inch.  So far, the bedding compound (epoxy) has held up well.  




I’ve shot thousands of rounds (probably over 15,000) thru my Fulton No. 4, which had a wood insert repair of the draws likely done by Fulton’s, and it’s still nice and snug. 



Posted By: MJ11
Date Posted: May 03 2020 at 1:07pm
I have a similar repair to the OP's king screw support bushing area.


This rifle has never been fired but the dry beach wood is  fragile and at some point before it came too me someone forced assembly and caused this.

This is one off three projects and a bit down the road. After the repair a deep treatment with 50/50 linseed and turpentine soaking over a long period I will risk shooting it for the first time with a reduced loading at first. I also will install the set of original brass recoil plates I have in stock.






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The Spartans do not ask how many the enemies are but where they are


Posted By: Xpert16
Date Posted: May 08 2020 at 7:57pm
Back on this project after being pulled away for a few days. I have worked on the parallel bedding surfaces and the tilt has definitely improved. Some trial and error to get it to the point that it doesn’t wobble. Question. Without draw contact forcing the stock back against the wrist area, how do you get it to push back before you apply the bedding compound?


Posted By: pisco
Date Posted: May 17 2020 at 12:04pm
I bed the back of the forend to fill the gap in front of the wrist


Posted By: Xpert16
Date Posted: May 17 2020 at 1:40pm
Thank you, that should work fine.


Posted By: pisco
Date Posted: May 18 2020 at 12:01am
how big of gap have you got
It made my forend tight I hang on to the wood around the action and use a plastic hammer to tap the metal off


Posted By: Xpert16
Date Posted: May 18 2020 at 6:15am
Not much. Only one to two one-thousands of an inch- I can see light where before trying to level out everything, there was none. I’m trying to get a chance to start back on this project this week. I’ve had a few home maintenance tasks take precedence.



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