Have a new toy that I found in a trash can. Trying to bring it back to life! It’s a M47 / 1943 : No4 MK1.

It needs a Complete bolt And magazine. So far I located a NOS bolt for $38 , repo firing pin $17, original bolt head(Complete and used ) $22. One big question I have is what size bolt head to get.(0,1,2,3,)? Also, is an NOS bolt the way to go or just get a used one in very good condition? The rifle was coated in basement storage rust but cleaned up with a good soak in evaporust. 

If anyone has parts or good place to source parts, let me know. 

Thanks,

Dave

Both the bolt & the bolt head need fitting, they aren't "drop in" parts.

The bolt has 2 recoil lugs & they must bear equally on the recesses in the receiver to be safe.

There are a couple of tutorials on how to do it on here.

https://enfield-rifles.com/lee-enfield-bolt_topic10006_post109412.html?KW=bolt+fitting#109412" rel="nofollow - https://enfield-rifles.com/lee-enfield-bolt_topic10006_post109412.html?KW=bolt+fitting#109412

https://enfield-rifles.com/enfield-headspace_topic10592_page2.html?KW=headspace" rel="nofollow - https://enfield-rifles.com/enfield-headspace_topic10592_page2.html?KW=headspace

There's no "right" head number either.

What you're trying to do is have the bolt close fully & lock with both lugs bearing to handle firing stresses & the gap between the front of the bolt head face & the rear of the barrel between 0.067" & 0.074" but longer than 0.064" absolute minimum. You also want the ribs to align but not go past 15° maximum.

Why was it missing the bolt and what does it actually look like now? Can you supply photos of this trash can find?

Before I recommend anything I would like to know the condition of the receiver first and foremost and what the chamber and bore look like.

Make sure that rifle is safe to fire first.  As Shamu has explained.  

Also, the barrel grooves are very prominent and nice looking. Even though the outside was rusty(but cleaned up after soaking in evaporust) , the barrel has a lubricant running out of the end.

They were never actually blued in service.

The standard finish was a hard to find paint called 'Suncorite 151? IIRC" over parkerising.

Please tell us you didn't pull the front of the forend down to remove it! That's a bad thing.

They're not really picky, but there is ammo & there is rubbish ammo.

I'd suggest in no  particular order.

Privi Partizan 180 & 150 gr.

HXP greek surplus (if you can find it)

South African A 80 (or 81) RiM3Z

I tend to avoid Indian & Pakistani ammo "POF" headstamps is the kiss of death to me.

Be suspicious of WW2 surplus. Its storage has been poor & it may be click . . .BANG, or worse click . . . . no Bang!

I would highly recommend that you take the barrelled receiver to a machine shop and have it magnafluxed to to check for any cracks and if it passes inspection,take the bolt assembly you buy and the barrelled receiver to a competent gunsmith and have the bolt matched to the rifle. I do not like this whole trash can reference in my honest opinion and I am very hesitant on giving out advise that may lead to a catastrophic failure from a trash can find that you are going to just put a bolt back in it after squirting a bunch of rust remover all over it and basically asking for advice as to which grain of bullet should you buy to possibly tear your face off with when the receiver comes apart.

Goosic, being from NY myself {Long Island NOT NYC} I find alot of people are "afraid" of firearms, therefore they have no idea how to dispose of a gun maybe left by a deceased relative etc. the easy solution would be to remove any moving parts and dispose of the rifle and any parts in seperate garbage cans, just a theory here as I have purchased many rifles after inquiring at garage sales over the years, and on many occasions have heard from the sellers that they didn't know how to sell or dispose of them. Needless to say I was glad to help them out! Just as a side note since emperor Cuomos SAFE act it is no longer legal to sell or buy a firearm between 2 people ( even family members) in NY without going to an FFL dealer and doing a NICS check. This s a big part of why my wife and I are moving to your beautiful state in September this year, I might just have to get in touch when we get settled. flathead

As Paul Harvey Would say “now you know the rest of the story”

If you will be living in or near Prescott.  Visit J&G Gun Sales. 

Can you tell me where you found the bolt heads for sale that you mentioned ?

I am also looking for a bolt head for a No 4 Mk 1 rifle...in a size '3' and haven't been able to find a source.

?? Not sure I understand. Nothing was forced apart during disassembly. 

....and yes , it will be going to a gunsmith before first fire. 

It wouldn't need to be to do unintentional damage.

There's an area called "The Draws" at the rear ish end of the forestock. Its a critical part of bedding the action to the wood.

If you removed the wood by innocently pulling the front away from the wood when removing it you may have accidentally crushed & so damaged them by the lever action involved.

The correct way is to tap the REAR end down gently so it separates parallel to the barrel.

Numrich Gun Parts in Hurley has pretty much everything you will need to put the rifle back together.  Sarco, Dixiegunworks, BDLLTD, and Apex will also have Enfield rifle parts as well. 

Can you elaborate on why you need a #3 bolt head? Did a knowledgeable gunsmith headspace the rifle with the correct headspace gauge and what is the length of the current bolthead?

The current both head is a size '0' and measured 0.625 as I recall.

I have been down this path twice with two No 1 Mk III rifles.

Both were successfully returned to fireable condition.

I think that in the case of this No 4 Mk 1 rifle a size '3' bolt head that measures 0.634 to 0.636 will do the job.

I currently have a wanted ad for the same.

The original poster indicated that he had found size '3' bolt heads for sale...I have thus far been unable to find a size '3'.

If he will divulge his source I would like to try and buy one.

I'm sure you realise that specifying a No3 bolt head is pointless - the fact you refer to it as a 'size' 3 is telling.

No3 bolt heads can be shorter than No0, No1 or No2 bolt heads.

For example a Size 0.632" could be any '#' of bolt head.

You need to identify what SIZE (actual dimension) that you need and buy one that is the right SIZE.

Buying a No3 bolt head will very likely end in tears.

Here is a table showing actual bolt head sizes, with the dimensions you are looking for any 'number' could be what you want - it could even be a No0.

I was just asking to verify if headspace was checked with a .074" NoGo gauge because the Forster. 070" field gauge will give you a somewhat false reading.  The Armourer is correct about bolthead lengths being misconstrued between the numbers. However,you stated that your #0 is .625". Typically the next logical step would be to the next size up. Each number increment should but not always be in .003" increments.  Your next bolthead length should be .628-.631. 

I.have a spare #1 bolthead that is .630"

I also have two spare #3 boltheads.  One is .638" and the other is .637"...

To figure out what I 'think' that I need for a bolt head for this No 4 Mk 1 rifle, I put layers of masking tape on the face of the size '0' (0.625) bolt head until the bolt closed 'about' 75% of the way.

Then I measured the dimension over the tape pieces.

It measured 0.634...so THAT is why I think that a bolt head measuring 0.635 / 0.636 will work in this rifle. Apparently the masking tape was about 0.003 thick...each layer.

This is the same procedure that I used to select the size for the bolt heads for the two No 1 Mk III rifles that I worked on and once I found the dimension that I 'thought' that needed and bought them, they both worked.

I would be interested in trying the 0.637 bolt head in my rifle if you would be interested in selling it.

If so, please send me a PM...

(also need the recoil plate and its mounting screws for a No 4 Mk 2 rifle if you might have them)

Then I measured the dimension over the tape pieces.

It measured 0.634...so THAT is why I think that a bolt head measuring 0.635 / 0.636 will work in this rifle. Apparently the masking tape was about 0.003 thick...each layer.]Quote

From a machinist point if view, each layer of tape is infact a separate layer with it's own thicknesses. Regardless of the adhesive used,you still have gaps between the layers and, unlike a steel shim the tape is compression able. Both of which will give false readings. I found another #3 with a length of. 635" that is complete and is .010" over your .625". I will PM you shortly...

You haven't actually said it failed headspace, and using the incorrect (0.070" SAAMI) gauge rather than the correct 0.074" military 'Go' gauge is not helping matters.

There are only 2 headspace gauges in the British military "Reject" (Go) and "High Limit" (No-Go)

For maintenance purposes there are other sizes eg, after rebuild the headspace must be no more than 0.067".

Thee have been many 100's (1000's ?) of Lee Enfields needlessly consigned to the great scrapheap in the sky by the use of incorrect gauges - maybe if you obtained / begged / borrowed or purchased the correct gauges you would find that it passes the specification.

Retaining the existing bolt-head also means that you won't have to buy dozens of "#3" bolt heads before you get one that clocks correctly, as well as headspaces correctly.

To clarify...the rifle failed headspace with the size '0' bolt head (0.625 length) and my 0.070 field gauge. The bolt closed right down.

When the face of the bolt head was built up with 0.009 of masking tape the bolt closed 'about' 75% of the way.

That is my rationale for seeking a bolt head that is 'about' 0.635 which in the scheme of things would 'typically' be a size 3 bolt head.

.070" field gauge and the bolt closed. You added what you can only assume was .009" of tape to a bolthead with a length of .625". Remember there is a crush factor you are over looking regardless of how lightly you move the bolt down. Simple math would suggest a bolthead at .634" as s replacement. However, the correct headspace gauge is set at .074" a difference of .004" from your field gauge. .004" closer and you end up with a replacement bolthead of .630". Which would "typically" be, a #1 or #2 bolthead,depending heavily on which factory actually made the bolthead.

In the greater scheme of things a 0.635 bolt head could be a #0, but certainly a #1 or #2. Do not overheadspace.
 

Having said all that, I prefer headspace to be a bit tighter because I shot a lot and reload.  But thats another subject....

I’m planning on getting the original stock pieces and I have a bayonet for it.  I would like to put a finish on it but not sure which way to go on that. I have access to get it plated in black satin zinc. It’s very close to the finish of the magazine. The zinc would offer corrosion protection too. Anyone have a thought on my black zinc option? Would I get all metal parts plated the same color(ie:bolt and bayonet)?

You said you have a bayonet.  Does the rifle barrel still have the bayonet lugs? If the bayonet lugs are missing and the barrel is not 24.5",getting a full stock set would not be advisable...

The rifle I just refinished already had almost all the paint removed and areas of the phosphate sanded off.  I completely stripped the old finish and refinished with Birchwood Casey Perma Blue and I am very happy with the results. 

So are these pictures of your refinished job or are you showing the phosphate finish? I’ve done cold bluing that has lasted 30+ years.....is there anything that allows for a black phosphate looking finish?

Duracoat Firearm Finish - Can Only - Matte Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IE79SBW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_wudgFb9YAK0DP" rel="nofollow - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IE79SBW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_wudgFb9YAK0DP

Any thoughts or experience with this? Seems like it might be the solution.

https://www.duracoatfirearmfinishes.com/collections/duracoat/products/duracoat-standard-colors-blacks?variant=38808658953" rel="nofollow - https://www.duracoatfirearmfinishes.com/collections/duracoat/products/duracoat-standard-colors-blacks?variant=38808658953

https://www.duracoatfirearmfinishes.com/collections/parkerizing" rel="nofollow - https://www.duracoatfirearmfinishes.com/collections/parkerizing

Interesting stuff....I hope someone here can recommend a true to original/accurate finish .

This is a much later (1955) rifle but the paint is exactly the same.

Its a semi-matte or eggshe!! black.

A friend of mine did a restore with either Ceramakote or Duracote (I forget which) & it was perfect. They ARE a heat cured paint though so you'd need some way of heating the painted parts.

I don't believe you can Parkerize over existing Parkerising & it's very tough to remove in a non-destructive way. You may be better off just cleaning the surface & over painting it.

Shamu had stated earlier that the rifles were painted with a hard to find Suncorite. The closest you will get to matching that is by using VHT header paint or Barbecue Grill paint. 

So are these pictures of your refinished job or are you showing the phosphate finish? I’ve done cold bluing that has lasted 30+ years.....is there anything that allows for a black phosphate looking finish?

Dave, the phosphate is a dull grey finish.  The photos are the Perma Blue finish, and quite black as shown in the photo.   The Perma Blue instructions call about complete removal of the old finish system, down to bare metal.  

Last paint question......which parts should be the same color? Magazine, bolt parts, swivels forend bands and screws?

I have had good luck with oil blackening. But the temperature I take the metal up to is only to around 450f (straw to brown colour) well below critical temp for having any effect on the heat treatment. Multiple passes will get it as black as I want.

Oil blackened repop nose cap on left.

Oil blackening is as tough as nails. Once it is on there, it needs blasting or sanding to get it off. There is a technique to getting it evenly dark without streaks or spots. With careful preparation (linnishing) and done right it is impossible to tell from a factory finish.

The other finish that I use is slow rust browning (bluing).

Nothing out of a bottle or can will replace elbow grease and patience.

Two great finish techniques to have in your tool kit.

I can use either finish to make a part look mint condition, or can be taken back to replicate age and honest wear.

Now that being said, I own more than one rifle that has a temporary coating of black rattle can paint (Tremclad) as corrosion protection fr om the elements and hard use in the bush. Been temporary for about ten years now.

Here is how it was originally done on the SMLE.

Many of the original ingredients are carcinogenic so it would be very difficult today to be able to recreate the 'witches-brew'

Its screwed in till the "stop collar" contacts the internal shoulder in the bolt head.

Uncocked the pin should protrude between 0.040" & 0.50".

Remember the "scallop' should align with the locking screw head. in the back end