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#4 MKI bolt bad repair

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URL: http://www.enfield-rifles.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=11643
Printed Date: March 28 2024 at 5:26am
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Topic: #4 MKI bolt bad repair
Posted By: g_legris
Subject: #4 MKI bolt bad repair
Date Posted: September 12 2021 at 8:00pm
I acquired a sporterized #4 MKI that shoots quite well.  The only issue seems to be the bolt.  I suspect a previous owner has put spacers in the bolt to increase the spring strength.  No big deal, just disassemble it and remove the spacers.

Unfortunately, this is not simple.  The first issue is that the cocking piece appears to be a #1 MKIII or even a 1917.  Second, the striker was hammered down to hold it in place.  I have attached a photo.  The striker is mashed down under the screw head.


The striker will not turn.  I do have a striker removal tool.  To fix this I am wondering if I should try to drill out the hammered down portion or cut the striker between the cocking piece and the bolt body.  It seems that the second option is more straightforward.

I have a #4 MKI cocking piece, replacement spring, and a #4 striker.  Thanks for any advice.



Replies:
Posted By: Zed
Date Posted: September 13 2021 at 4:05am
If you have all the replacement parts; carefully cut the firing pin at the cocking piece.

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It's nice to be important, but it's more important to be nice!


Posted By: g_legris
Date Posted: September 13 2021 at 7:02am
Thanks for the feedback.  That was my inclination, but wanted to check with more experienced owners.  I'll do that and post the results.


Posted By: Goosic
Date Posted: September 13 2021 at 7:18am
Before you resort to cutting the firing pin, soak the threads on the cocking piece with a good penetrating oil and let it soak for awhile. When you try to remove the firing pin,give it a good turn to the right first and then to the left. It has been known to work.


Posted By: g_legris
Date Posted: September 13 2021 at 8:12am
Thought I'd give Goosic's suggestion a try and if it didn't work, I could proceed with cutting the firing pin/striker.  After a good application of old Liquid Wrench and some tapping, as suggested for the oil, a twist right, then left allowed me to unscrew the striker.

Just for curiosity, I cleaned up the cocking piece and found it has stamped on one side a crown symbol, with P6 under that and below that the number 13.  On the botton of the piece it has 34 Co 6.  The "o" is raised to the top and the it looks odd shaped, sort of curved top, straight sides, and a curved bottom.  Wondered if anyone knows where this came from, but not a big deal.

Will clean up the bolt, lubricate carefully, and reassemble with the correct parts to see if it works better.  It seemed to need more force than expected to close all the way.  I have other #1 MKIII* SMLEs and they are much easier to cock.  This is my first #4.


Posted By: Goosic
Date Posted: September 13 2021 at 10:16am
If the cocking piece looks like this one, it is an early cocking piece for the No4, specifically for the Savage. If it is more of an oval shape then it was originally intended for the No1Mk111. If you don't mind sharing the serial number of the rifle, we could assist in letting you know exactly who made it...


Posted By: g_legris
Date Posted: September 13 2021 at 11:39am
Many thanks.  The cocking piece is oval and looks just like the one I have on a 1942 Birmingham #1 MKIII*.  The rifle is a 1942 Long Branch, SN 27449.  The serial numbers on the bolt match the rest of the rifle.

I have a replacement "rectangular" cocking piece, very similar to the ones found on #1 MKIII* Lithgow rifles.  The new one was sold as a #4 MKI cocking piece.  The cocking grooves in the old cocking piece are extremely worn.


Posted By: g_legris
Date Posted: September 13 2021 at 6:39pm
The bolt was reassembled with replacement firing pin (striker), spring and cocking piece.  The bolt is easier to push into battery and does not meet the resistance I was feeling with the old cocking piece.  I was not able to half-cock the bolt before as the half-cock did not work, but works as expected.  The trigger now has two stages that were missing with the old assembly; it was one stage and it was difficult to feel the release point.  It helps to have the right parts!

Many thanks for all the help from everyone.  It is really appreciated.


Posted By: A square 10
Date Posted: September 13 2021 at 7:31pm
the oval/round one would be correct for a 42 longbranch but the square is not uncommon later so probably acceptable 


Posted By: sgabrie854
Date Posted: September 15 2021 at 7:27am
Thats annoying as he!!!



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