Do what Navy Arms did. Just do it better!

Cut the stock once at the middle of the cut for the front sling swivel.

Now make a second cut at the upper band recessed area. Cut both a little "shy" & sand down for a really good fit on the new band.

Then butt the two together, being careful to only cut where there's solid wood, not the lightening cuts.

They messed up trying to glue oil soaked wood with no reinforcement.

Thoroughly de-grease the wood at the cut.

Drill for a dowel or two that will bridge the splice you're making, & then de-grease inside that hole too. Maybe even put a couple of nice brass nails through it if you can figure out the right place to sink them. use over-length ones & cut the heads & protruding shaft off & they'll look just like those threaded brass wires the factory used, just a gold-colored dot.

Use a good modern wood glue too, something like "Gorilla wood glue"! Glue your dowel(s) into one piece & let the glue cure, clean up the face. Then glue the other half & the faces & squish together!

once you re-fit the middle band (front sling swivel) in the "new" stock it will hide the join!

As I think this through more and more, I’ll post more basic sketches on my ideas.  My plan is to shorten the barrel so that the space between the nose cap and the swivel band is almost nothing.  One of the pictures I posted in the “Cut down” thread is like I want to do.  Thinking I might extend the tenon far enough forward to allow the nose cap screw to go through it.  Haven’t tested the theory, also thinking about using an additional inner band in place of the nose cap screw.

Lots of ideas, nothing really firm yet.  I won’t go cutting willy nilly.

Not in a hurry and have given this lots of thought.  Still wide open for ideas.

Something else that can be done is to make a "Bowtie" patch from wood that can be glassed into the spliced pieces to add some reinforcement from the barrel channel.

Other methods could be fiberglass rods from a bicycle pennant staff, short pieces of threaded bolts or even broken fishing rod pieces with holes drilled through them so the glass glue or epoxy can bond to them.

I like to use wood for making repairs because it can be worked easier with the parent material.

In case you need to inlet, drill a hole or for some other specific purpose.

Looking forward to updates regarding the project, things like this are interesting to me.

Keep the suggestions coming though.

Initial inspection is spot on with other reviews I've seen on these.

Rifling/bore looks decent, surface rust in places.  Overall finish is not bad.

Through a known good bolt in as a quick test.  Good lock-up, no fore and aft play.  I know, needs to be checked very closely.

It's gone back in the box for now.  Other projects ahead of this one.  I have a short list of parts I'm short of.  Not too bad as I have been collecting stuff as spare for my other two.

I'll try to get pictures out sometime this week. 

As I started checking things out, I found that the chamber by the extractor side is deformed.  Tried to insert a headspace gauge.  It wouldn’t fully seat, meaning it would go in more than about 3/4s of the way.

After a close inspection, and a comparison on of my other functional 2A1s, it looks like the sxtractor side of the chamber is out of round.  A dummy round would not seat in the chamber.

I have 2 other barrels I can use, but would like to at least keep the barrel and receiver serial numbers the same.  I have a 7.62 chamber reamer.  I’ll try that route first, if that doesn’t work, I’ll attempt a barrel change.

I think I have everything else for the project.  Retirement is not all it’s cracked up to be.  This build will be an extended process.  I also have a couple of FAL builds, a BM69, M1 carbine and a Garand project in the works.  Also have house and landscaping projects and my truck is acting up.

So far, retirement has been been busier than working!