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Butt Stock Removal

Printed From: Enfield-Rifles.com
Category: Enfields
Forum Name: Enfield Gunsmithing
Forum Description: Submit any how-to's or other gunsmithing suggestions here.
URL: http://www.enfield-rifles.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=5878
Printed Date: March 26 2026 at 8:17pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 12.07 - https://www.webwizforums.com


Topic: Butt Stock Removal
Posted By: Pommy76
Subject: Butt Stock Removal
Date Posted: March 29 2013 at 7:09pm
Hi can anyone help,

I was lucky enough to be left a 303 MIII*.

However don't think it was ever looked after properly in the last 20 years or so as it is full of rust.Not to worry as I will enjoy bringing it back to it's former glory.

I have managed to strip it for cleaning etc all apart from the stock??? I have tried good old WD40 and a flat head screw driver still with no success Cry

How else can I remove it as I fear it has been rusted tight ???

Anyone else ever had this problem before ?

Cheers , Pommy Confused


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If The sh*t Fits......Wear It



Replies:
Posted By: Ishapore150
Date Posted: March 29 2013 at 10:23pm
he!!o Pommy,Try standing the rifle up and put a few drops of Kroil.Then give it a little time to greep down the threads.Just my .02 cents.

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-.- -.. ..... --- --.. .--- If you understand that 73's


Posted By: Shamu
Date Posted: March 30 2013 at 12:02am
First remove the forend wood! (If you haven't already).
There is a square shaft end on the screw that is trapped between the parts of the forend wood, if you don't remove the forend you might damage it as the square becomes a diamond-shape while turning.
Second: did you remove the washer covering the bolt head? Its down in the tunnel & if not removed will prevent you getting a good fit into the slot.
 


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Don't shoot till you see the whites of their thighs. (Unofficial motto of the Royal Air Force)


Posted By: Pommy76
Date Posted: March 30 2013 at 2:35pm
Thanks all.
Not sure if they sell Kroil here in Australia? But will try and find something simular if not? I have removed washer but still no joy as of yet!!! Will let you know how I go

Pommy


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If The sh*t Fits......Wear It


Posted By: Shamu
Date Posted: March 30 2013 at 11:49pm
Poke around in here a bit. Theres a home-brew formula for an oil & acetone (I think) mix that should work. Just be careful mixing/storing/using it its a bit heady if you get my drift.

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Don't shoot till you see the whites of their thighs. (Unofficial motto of the Royal Air Force)


Posted By: Zed
Date Posted: March 31 2013 at 6:02am
It is Dexron transmission fluid and acetone in a 50/50 mix. Try and get it onto the threaded end of the screw from behind the trigger area and let it soak in. I would suggest using a syringe or similar to apply the mix and avoid getting too much on the wood if possible. This mix works great on steel and iron (although not so good on aluminium corrosion). Use in a ventilated area and no smoking! This works much better than WD40 for freeing rusted bolts.

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It's nice to be important, but it's more important to be nice!


Posted By: ArcherSix
Date Posted: March 31 2013 at 11:31am
The last one I worked on was TIGHT, and I think you know what I mean. I got it out by clamping the barrel in a padded vise and then using my long screwdriver that I ground the head specially for SMLE stock bolts. Came out hard all the way even though there was no rust present on the threads! There was no way I would've gotten that one out without the vise.


Posted By: Pommy76
Date Posted: March 31 2013 at 6:01pm
Originally posted by ArcherSix ArcherSix wrote:

The last one I worked on was TIGHT, and I think you know what I mean. I got it out by clamping the barrel in a padded vise and then using my long screwdriver that I ground the head specially for SMLE stock bolts. Came out hard all the way even though there was no rust present on the threads! There was no way I would've gotten that one out without the vise.

I given that a go with no luck.I have sent off to US for some Kroil as I will give anything a go now lol.

Will let you know how I go Wink


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If The sh*t Fits......Wear It


Posted By: MaxP
Date Posted: March 31 2013 at 8:02pm
 Cut a bit of hardwood and stick it in or on a vise so the butt socket can sit on it with the butt in the air, and ensure the screw isn't contacting the wood. Get a big brass drift and put it in the screw hole and give the head of the screw a big crack with a big hammer.  Never sit the the muzzle on the ground or brace it in any other way, otherwise you will do irreparable damage to the receiver.

The best screwdriver if you don't have a really big one, is the other end of a wheel nut wrench out of your car. Check it for fit, and make sure you hold it into the slot as tight as you can as you try to turn it.


Posted By: ArcherSix
Date Posted: April 01 2013 at 10:56am
Good idea with the brass rod Max. Let us know how this turns out Pommy.


Posted By: Pommy76
Date Posted: April 01 2013 at 7:41pm
Originally posted by MaxP MaxP wrote:

 Cut a bit of hardwood and stick it in or on a vise so the butt socket can sit on it with the butt in the air, and ensure the screw isn't contacting the wood. Get a big brass drift and put it in the screw hole and give the head of the screw a big crack with a big hammer.  Never sit the the muzzle on the ground or brace it in any other way, otherwise you will do irreparable damage to the receiver.

The best screwdriver if you don't have a really big one, is the other end of a wheel nut wrench out of your car. Check it for fit, and make sure you hold it into the slot as tight as you can as you try to turn it.

Thanks, Will Do Guy's 

Pommy Wink


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If The sh*t Fits......Wear It


Posted By: A square 10
Date Posted: April 01 2013 at 11:34pm
its worth the soaking time and efforts to break free the threads as rushing can cause damage thats irrepairable , good luck with your efforts


Posted By: Pommy76
Date Posted: April 03 2013 at 7:27pm
G'day All,

Just to let you know I managed to remove my stock a combined effort of all your help!!!

Thanks again for all your very helpful and useful information.

Pommy

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If The sh*t Fits......Wear It


Posted By: Shamu
Date Posted: April 03 2013 at 9:30pm
HandshakeBeer

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Don't shoot till you see the whites of their thighs. (Unofficial motto of the Royal Air Force)


Posted By: ArcherSix
Date Posted: April 04 2013 at 10:32am
yaaaaay!


Posted By: A square 10
Date Posted: April 04 2013 at 10:17pm
glad to hear of your success


Posted By: Shamu
Date Posted: April 05 2013 at 1:27am
Do you have a product called "Never Seez" in Oz, Pommy? If you do, or there's an equivalent schmear a little on the threads & run the bolt back & forth a few times to distribute evenly before final re-assembly.
http://www.bostik-us.com/our-brands/never-seez" rel="nofollow - http://www.bostik-us.com/our-brands/never-seez
 


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Don't shoot till you see the whites of their thighs. (Unofficial motto of the Royal Air Force)


Posted By: Tony
Date Posted: April 05 2013 at 4:20am
We have a product called copperslip over here in the UK which mechanics use on the back of disk brake pads etc.  It's a high temp grease and ideal for lubing bolts etc. My lad Alex swears by it.


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Rottie (PitBulls dad.)


“If electricity comes from electrons, does morality come from morons

Born free taxed to death!!!



Posted By: Shamu
Date Posted: April 05 2013 at 4:34am
Sounds like something similar, kind of a copper/bronze colored greasy thing?

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Don't shoot till you see the whites of their thighs. (Unofficial motto of the Royal Air Force)


Posted By: muffett.2008
Date Posted: April 05 2013 at 5:51am
 Theres a tube of Neverseize staring me in the face every time I go to operate my big lathe.


Posted By: Shamu
Date Posted: April 05 2013 at 7:02am
I'll take that as a yesTongue

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Don't shoot till you see the whites of their thighs. (Unofficial motto of the Royal Air Force)


Posted By: MaxP
Date Posted: April 05 2013 at 10:23am
 A couple of pertinent points about neversieze and similar products. The one we used to use working underground was a Loctite brand "antiseize", and was carcinogenic. Always read the label...
Another was "copper coat", bronze in colour, but they took it off the market...hmmmm....

One other point, as these products were usually a platelet form lube, they have in themselves, physical thickness- that is they are measurable in thickness, unlike oil which can be squeezed away. As a thread antiseize, this is what makes it work, keeping the metal surfaces apart. But never use the stuff for slip or press fitted parts as it can make the tolerances too tight and lock up while assembling.


Posted By: Lithgow
Date Posted: April 05 2013 at 12:34pm
Interesting, I wasnt aware of the carcinogenic properties. Its a wonder mining companies still allow it to be used.
When I worked on mobile equipment in the mining industry, we use heaps. Try undoing dozer track bolts that have not had antisieze used on them. It was easier to get the boilermaker to cut those off.
Another good one is the old graphite grease. That was all my father would use and years later I have easily taken apart bolts that he did up.


Posted By: Tony
Date Posted: April 05 2013 at 2:49pm
Originally posted by Shamu Shamu wrote:

Sounds like something similar, kind of a copper/bronze colored greasy thing?


 Yes thats the stuff. You can get it small tubes or 8oz tins, impervious to water but easy to clean off with kerosene or brake cleaner.


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Rottie (PitBulls dad.)


“If electricity comes from electrons, does morality come from morons

Born free taxed to death!!!




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