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This is the first installment of what I hope to be mercifully short series of how I improved the accuracy of my Ishapore Enfield from being a dog of a rifle into something that can actually hit the target in a consistent fashion. I first picked up this rifle way back in the late '80s, the exact date escapes me. Over the years I've come to really love this firearm, for both it's history and it's capabilities. I have learned about it, by first hand experience, picked up the hard way, some useful bits about the Ishapore that may be helpful to others. Much of what I've done is generic to any center fire rifle, I've just put them together for the Ishy.
Ishapore Enfield is an excellent rifle. It was the last bolt action rifle issued to regular army troops and embodies the sum of decades of Enfield knowledge. However, as good as it is, it did suffer from a poor final finish work at the factory that detracts unfairly from it's place in the Pantheon of Enfield history. Some of the metal components were machined, but did not have the machining marks polished out. Some of the wood work is sloppy and interferes with the functioning of the rifle. The good news is that all of those defects can be fixed, mostly for free.
In the interest of full disclosure, I am not a professional gunsmith, I do not make any claims that my methods are the best, and any and all modifications you make to your rifle is 100% on you. This series is for informational purposes only, and I highly recommend that any work on a firearm be done by a qualified professional. This is just a sharing of knowledge about how I did the work on my rifle, for myself and without any compensation.
Part A: Safety
This should be a no-brainer, but it needs to be said again. NEVER WORK ON A LOADED FIREARM! NEVER PULL THE TRIGGER TO SEE IF THE RIFLE IS LOADED! 'Kay? There is a term for people who break this rule, it's called "natural selection".
To unload the Ishy: 1. Pull the bolt all the way to the rear. 2. Drop the magazine and remove from the rifle 3. Observe the chamber. Hold the muzzle to a light source and observe the reflection in the empty chamber. If you can't see the light, then run a cleaning rod from the crown to the chamber. The rifle is clear when you see the rod in the feed ramp area. 4. Take all of your bullets and move them to a different room in the house so you have NO temptation whatsoever of putting one in the rifle while you are working on it. Better yet, let your significant other hold them for you.
Part B: Tools and their use
Observe photo 1. I have laid out about 95% of every tool you will ever need to work on the Ishy, minus the firing pin wrench. I will discuss each item in turn. First a word about tools. Most of the tools needed are common in any household, and the few more exotic ones can be purchased easily at any big box hardware store or tool outlet warehouse. Tools are how you get things done, so it's wise to purchase the best you can afford. A good quality tool with perform better, last longer, be more comfortable, and give a better end product. As you can see, my tools have many years and many projects behind them, so buying quality will save you money in the long run. But with that said, you don't have to spend a lot, get what you can afford and get better tools later on.
Photo 1
The first item is a work table. I use a retired Army folding field table, and as you can see, it's been used many times for many projects. I like it because it's portable, durable and it was free. If you have a nicer table (perhaps the nice wood one in the dining room) then be sure to cover it with a layer of thick newspapers or cork to protect the surface.
Photo 2
Observe photo 2. Here we see a cleaning brush, oil, steel wool, sandpaper, corborundum stone, and hobby files. The use for everything is self evident save for the corborundum stone. It's probably the most exotic tool in my inventory, but all it amounts to is a silicone carbide sharpening stone. I just like using the fancy name.
Photo 3
Here we see a motor tool, mine is made by Black and Decker, but Dremel is another popular brand. Here it is shown with a polishing attachment. You can do without this, but it makes life so much easier it pays for itself in elbow grease and time saved. I don't consider it an option. The one shown here cost me about $20 at a big box store.
Photo 4
Surgical gloves and WHAT? Surgical gloves keep your hands clean, 'nuff said. When working, I like to be comfortable, and being comfortable means watching a movie. Here I have selected a proper motivational film for the task I have in mind. Yes, it's VHS. Yes, I prefer VHS. VHS are mechanical, they work. They always work. They are the Soviet tractor of home entertainment. I pop one in, let it roll and do my work. And they are 3 for a dollar at the thrift shops, and a good VHS player can be bought in the same store or a yard sale for about 5 bucks. I have amassed an impressive collection of "man movies" this way. Name a man-flick, I've probably got it.
Photo 5 Hand tools. Screwdriver, pick, hammer and a small nail. The nail is used as a drift to remove the small pins on the trigger group. The other tools are obvious.
Photo 6
This is a set of wood carving tools. Useful for relieving pesky wood bumps in important areas of the rifle stock. I picked up this set for about $10 at a big box tool outlet shop. You don't necessarily have to buy these, but the first time you have to sand down that hard wood on a barrel channel by hand you are going to wish you did. I also use these for any number of other projects where a delicate touch is needed to shape some wood.
That's about it. Not a lot when you sum it up. To buy everything on the table would cost you under $60 and last a lifetime with proper care. Hope you enjoyed this installment, another will come soon, but I make no promises as to when :) Remember, free advise is worth every penny!
------------- Politicians aren't born. They are excreted
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