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First range day with Lee Enfield No.4

Printed From: Enfield-Rifles.com
Category: Enfields
Forum Name: Enfield Rifles
Forum Description: Anything that has to do with the great Enfield rifles!
URL: http://www.enfield-rifles.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=9445
Printed Date: June 19 2019 at 8:24pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 12.01 - http://www.webwizforums.com


Topic: First range day with Lee Enfield No.4
Posted By: Donald303
Subject: First range day with Lee Enfield No.4
Date Posted: January 05 2019 at 1:32pm
he!!o again guys. Well, after several weeks with rotten weather today turned out sunny and warmer. So I grabbed my Lee and went to the range to fire it for the first time. I had to use the 25 yard range because the 100 was under mud. That didn't matter as all I wanted to do for this first day out was to see how well the gun operated and attempt to just hit the target. :-).
 Both objectives were met with flying colors!! I posted a photo of the target as it appeared after I became more familiar with where the rifle was actually firing. I had never fired the gun before and have no idea how long ago it had been fired. Once I saw where the rounds were printing I drew a circle with a pen (lower right) and shot some more rounds at that. All of the rounds fired hit very near the bulls-eye and those are the ones you can see right there. Obviously some adjustments are in order but am happy that at least the rounds are consistent. Had an eject problem with a jam-up (photo) but found it was less when I became a bit more aggressive with the bolt. Some of the cases came out with a curious dimple (photo) but I realized that the slug end might be getting thrown against the side of the bolt housing.
 All in all very happy with the rifle first day out. Will go to 100 yard range when it dries out a little.
  Donald


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You can lead a horse to water but a bullet must be lead...



Replies:
Posted By: Donald303
Date Posted: January 05 2019 at 1:41pm


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You can lead a horse to water but a bullet must be lead...


Posted By: 42rocker
Date Posted: January 05 2019 at 3:15pm
Looks like you had a good time at the range. Enjoy.
 
Later 42rocker


Posted By: Donald303
Date Posted: January 05 2019 at 3:35pm
Great time! The rifle drew some attention while I was there. People wanted to know the history of it. I know precious little and sometimes wish that the rifle could talk.

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You can lead a horse to water but a bullet must be lead...


Posted By: Honkytonk
Date Posted: January 05 2019 at 3:52pm
The rifle does talk. 100 years plus and still hitting paper and harvesting wild game.


Posted By: Pukka Bundook
Date Posted: January 05 2019 at 4:23pm
Congrats on getting out it in the fresh air, Donald!
It will all get better the more you get to know each other.
 
Good start, and the a very nice looking rifle.   :-)
 
All the best,
Richard.


Posted By: A square 10
Date Posted: January 05 2019 at 7:00pm
congrats - you got a great rifle there , 

if they could talk .......well the stories would be well worth hearing , all of us would love to hear the stories our rifles might tell , some would be inspirational and many would bring us to tears i am sure , we hold these dear for all that they saw and served , we preserve them for the memories that are lost , we hold them dear for where they have been -who held them-and because if we dont history will be lost , 


Posted By: Donald303
Date Posted: January 05 2019 at 7:43pm
A Square 10, you are so correct. My brother had this rifle stored away for several decades. He originally received it in trade from his father-in-law for doing some home improvement jobs but never fired it. And that was at least three decades ago. I had given my brother an old Mauser many years ago and asked that if he weren't using it that he might consider sending it back to me to see if it could be returned to service. He assured me that the Mauser was not salvageable but had this Lee that he would never use. BY DAMN, I asked how fast he could get it out to me! After receiving it I knew I had something special. I cleaned it very well and have it in a case and due to good weather was finally able to get it out today. I am so proud to be able to own this beautiful piece of history. I am sure that once I get it sighted in correctly it will be a very accurate gun. 

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You can lead a horse to water but a bullet must be lead...


Posted By: A square 10
Date Posted: January 05 2019 at 8:21pm
you have a great rifle , keep it safe and pass it on when neccessary but hold it dear , i would like to see a thread on the particulars of that rifle , you might be suprised to see what you could find out about it simply from the markings on this old girl , we have a lot of info and resources here to fill in the gaps , it is a complete rifle from what i see in your photo , 


Posted By: Goosic
Date Posted: January 05 2019 at 9:15pm
I love the color of the wood. I will always love the sound of a .303 when that trigger is squeezed as well. No other rifle sounds just like it. Nice shooting...


Posted By: Shamu
Date Posted: January 06 2019 at 8:08am
The bolt is supposed to be used "briskly" (fast & fully) because the L-E doesn't use the ejector to eject fired cases (odd as that is) the ejector only ejects LOADED bullets. Fired cases are ejected by friction with the left side receiver wall. If this doesn't happen frequently think about replacing the extractor spring because that is what applies pressure forcing the case rim against the left side wall.


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Don't shoot till you see the whites of their thighs. (Unofficial motto of the Royal Air Force)


Posted By: Zed
Date Posted: January 07 2019 at 11:31pm
Please to hear that you had a good day at the range Donald.
It is quite easy to set the front blade for the windage error. Calculate the required adjustment and drift the blade across.
To calculate the adjustment: Multiply the distance between POA and POI on the target, by the distabce between the front and rear sights. Then divide the result by the distance between the barrel end and the target. Use the same scale for all measurements.

Example: (2" error X 27" sight radius) / 900" = 0.060"
So in this case the front blade would require 60 thousandth's of an inch drift to correct a 2" error at 25 yards (900 inches)


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It's nice to be important, but it's more important to be nice!


Posted By: britrifles
Date Posted: January 08 2019 at 7:49am
Donald, your No. 4 has the Mk 1 aperture sight, which is the best of the 4 marks that were made for the No. 4 rifle.  It has 1 MOA (i.e. 1 inch at 100 yards) click elevation adjustments.  The 25 yard zero setting should not be too far off for shooting at 100 yards.  You can get the rifle to regulate to the range settings on the rear sight by finding a front sight of the correct height, but that will change with different loads, so not really necessary.  Taking a 6:00 hold (front sight at the bottom of the target black aiming mark) makes a clearer sight picture for consistent aiming.  You can easily make up a tool for the front sight screw from an old screw driver, grind off the end of it and grind an appropriate width slot for the screw head.    
 
Your extractor spring may be weak not allowing the case to eject prior reaching the ejector screw.  These are pretty cheap from places like Numerich.   


Posted By: Shamu
Date Posted: January 08 2019 at 8:57am
If that rifle has the "reversed screw" locking the front sight for windage your local car parts store has the correct screwdriver for it!
Ask them for a "Schrader valve tool".
https://www.bikeparts.com/images1/pictures/rs/rs3019.jpg


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Don't shoot till you see the whites of their thighs. (Unofficial motto of the Royal Air Force)


Posted By: Donald303
Date Posted: January 10 2019 at 3:12pm
Hey guys, thanks so much for for the replies!! And the sight adjustment methods are just what I was going to ask about next. I have been scouring YouTube and on line sources for just how to make the adjustment so this input is very timely.  One forum I happened upon shows a special clamp like tool that can be bought. But on the same thread an expert armourer said that one simply needs a small brass punch and a small hammer to make the front sight adjustment. Wanted to check in with my friends here to verify that that is ok. I believe I can use a small punch and hammer without mucking up the side of the sight.
 Thanks for the info on the "driver". If I can't find it I will make one. 


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You can lead a horse to water but a bullet must be lead...


Posted By: Honkytonk
Date Posted: January 10 2019 at 3:20pm
Nylon punches work well also.


Posted By: britrifles
Date Posted: January 10 2019 at 5:43pm
Donald, take a close up pic of the front sight.  All you have to do on the No. 4 rifle is loosen the dovetail set screw, which has a flat head protrusion requiring a slotted tool to loosen (an inverted slot head screw).  The front sight blade is easily moved laterally in its dovetail, no tools necessary to move it.  The blade is interchangeable and are made in increments of 0.015 inches in height.  This allows for zeroing bullet impact at the ranges indicated on the rear sight.  



Posted By: Donald303
Date Posted: January 10 2019 at 6:13pm
Britrifles, here are a couple of photos. By looking at them I can see what you mean. I will see if I can get my hands on a driver like the photo above or make my own. Sounds pretty simple. Thanks for the help.
 Donald

 P.S. added another photo with some curious factory markings on the top of the muzzle. Must be specs for the muzzle pressures or something...


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You can lead a horse to water but a bullet must be lead...


Posted By: britrifles
Date Posted: January 10 2019 at 6:21pm
The last pic shows the front sight dovetail set screw with the head that is an “inverted slot”.  


Posted By: Goosic
Date Posted: January 10 2019 at 6:28pm
The stampings on the muzzle are .303 2.222" 18tons per □". Out of service stamp for civilian use. I will assume somewhere on the receiver is a stamp that says ENGLAND. 


Posted By: Zed
Date Posted: January 10 2019 at 11:30pm
Donald, the only problem with the "punch" method is that it's difficult to control how much you move the sight.
Before you start moving the front blade, measure the distance from the "ear's" to the blade from each side and note the figures. Use a vernier type depth gauge so it's an accurate measurement.
Then you know your point of depart.
Calculate the required adjustment as per the formula in my previous post, using your own measurement's. You can use inches or metric, (but just make sure that all figures are in the same scale)
This way you can exactly measure the change in sight position and get it spot on. If you just tap it across and guess; you'll be using a lot of ammo chasing the POA.

You may be able to adapt a small "G" clamp to push the blade in a controlled manner if you don't have the official tool.


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It's nice to be important, but it's more important to be nice!


Posted By: Donald303
Date Posted: January 11 2019 at 5:17am
Goosic, "England" is stamped on the butt stock collar but haven't seen it yet on the receiver. I will take a closer look. Zed, thank you so much for the heads up on the gauges. I will look around and find some. And thanks for the formulas. They will help a lot.  And the small clamp idea is one that I hadn't thought of but makes perfect sense. I do have a few of those type of clamps and am sure I can notch something up.  But this is why I come to this site. The Enfield owners here are top drawer and very knowledgeable. I would have been lost if not for my friends here.
 This Lee Enfield No.4 is my favorite rifle and I own 4 different kinds. It is my intention to learn all that I can and preserve this piece of history and enjoy it at the range while I still have my wits! Thanks again!  Donald.


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You can lead a horse to water but a bullet must be lead...


Posted By: Donald303
Date Posted: January 11 2019 at 5:25am
Forgot to ask, but does anybody know of a good wood cleaner? I intend to leave the finish as is but would like to clean as much gunk off the wood parts as I can.  Thanks. 

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You can lead a horse to water but a bullet must be lead...


Posted By: Shamu
Date Posted: January 11 2019 at 6:17am
https://www.murphyoilsoap.com/" rel="nofollow - https://www.murphyoilsoap.com/



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Don't shoot till you see the whites of their thighs. (Unofficial motto of the Royal Air Force)


Posted By: Honkytonk
Date Posted: January 11 2019 at 6:18am
I've always had good luck with plain old Windex. Do a small area at a time (say, the butt stock.) I use a fairly course cotton dish rag. Lots of build up on the hand grip area. Once done, the wood may be raised abit. I then use xxxx steel wool or a very fine scotch Brite to polish. You can then add a new coat of linseed (Shamu has a good recipe and procedure). This method works for me. 


Posted By: Pukka Bundook
Date Posted: January 11 2019 at 7:32am
My way to clean wood, is some artist's quality linseed oil, cut with maybe 1/3 turpentine, (pure).
 
Simply apply with the finest steel wool, in the direction of the grain.   Afterwards rub off any remaining oil with a dry cloth. The linseed /turps will lift the dirt, and feed any dry areas of the stock at the same time.
 
Remember, these stocks can get dry, and any areas that absorb the oil, would Also absorb water if out in inclement weather, (or dropped in the creek!)  The oil in the wood is much better than water.  :-)


Posted By: Zed
Date Posted: January 11 2019 at 8:19am
Yes the artist quality linseed oil is slightly lighter and has less colour; so does not stain the wood as much. At least the stuff I bought here is like that when compared to my standard linseed oil.


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It's nice to be important, but it's more important to be nice!


Posted By: NHBandit
Date Posted: February 26 2019 at 4:47am
Very nice. I am currently rebuilding a Savage No4 Mk1* that had been sporterized in the past. What part of Tennessee ? I'm in the North East over in Greene County. Excellent tip from the guy who suggested a Shrader valve tool for the front sight as well. I was about to order the tool when I saw this post. Having been an auto mechanic for 40+ years I have several of those tools already so that saved me a couple bucks. 



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