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Sarco 2A1 Barreled Reciever has Arrived

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Rob3Bruce View Drop Down
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    Posted: November 26 2018 at 11:59am
I just picked up the barreled action I purchased from Sarco and got a good look at it. Attached are some photos of how I received it. There was a decent amount of surface rust. Most, if not all, of the internal surfaces were rust free. The barrel looks pretty good. I would say great, but as you can see there is some pitting near the muzzle. It should shoot just fine for my tastes. (I should mention that I cleaned up the barrel before taking the photos. It was a little dingy.) I've got a buttstock lined up on Ebay that has some Arabic carved into it, with an Arabic unit disk. No clue if it's authentic, but I think it'd be a cool touch.

Anyway, I've been hitting it with some aerosol CLP and a tooth brush but this it probably going to require a brass or copper brush if I don't want to be scrubbing this thing in to the new year. A few more questions. I feel bad for asking so many, but it's the only way to learn.

Would you recommend I clean this thing up and have it professionally re-blued, or do it at home?

What would be a good stone for fitting the bolt and headspace? What is the grit on those usually?

What the heck is the hole on the receiver just before the chamber for? I never noticed it before, but I looked at close ups of a couple of more receivers and there they are.

Are there any parts other than the extractor and magazine that are different between the No1 MKIII and the Ishy 2A1?

Lastly, are there any metal parts that are considered "unobtainium"? I just realized that the part that holds the bolt in place at the rear of travel is a thing and I don't remember seeing it around.

Thanks again for all of the assistance. I'm super stoked to be starting this project.
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englishman_ca View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote englishman_ca Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November 26 2018 at 2:59pm
To tell the truth, once you get it mounted into a full wood set, you are not going to see much of the metalwork except the receiver and rear sight base. The blue on it now looks like that it would clean with gun oil and fine steel wool. So if mine, I would not be going the refinished metal route. The rifle has some age and service use, so in my mind, it is allowed to look as if it has been used, it adds character..

Obviously the rifle has been stripped completely for spares inventory. It would be worth more sold as individual parts than as an assembled rifle. Now you can spend a fortune buying all the parts to put back on it. But a great project from which you will learn a lot. I watch with interest.

And, oh yeah, the hole in the side of the receiver is a gas port in case there is a case head separation. Gasses get directed out both sides and not back towards the firer's face. It actually works quite well.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rob3Bruce Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November 26 2018 at 6:54pm
English,

I get your point about not seeing it the metal and having "battle scars" as it were, but I'm also a ship's mechanic with the U. S. Coast Guard and as such am quite aware that corrosion is a cancer to metal and regular maintenance is the chemo therapy. The best way to deal with rust long term is to coat the substrate in a corrosion preventative compound. If I can't do the maintenance for a few weeks or months I don't want to worry about having to scrub out the nooks, crannies, cracks and crevasses again.

Also I think the major excess cost over buying a whole rifle would be shipping. As long as I'm not going through bolts and bolt heads like crazy trying to make one fit the parts should run me about $150. The wood $200. The barreled action cost me $60. I think all told shipping will run me an extra $75 as long as I but the parts in large groups. That would put me just above what they seem to be going for on gunbroker. Again, that's with a bit of luck.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rob3Bruce Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November 26 2018 at 7:11pm
Also, I wrote my first response up and posted it then realized that it was a little long winded and possibly condescending. My wife tells me I do that sometimes. The point I was really trying to get across it that I want the rifle to look like it just got an arsenal or factory referb when I'm done. Even though there isn't much history in a 1966 2A1 I don't want it to look brand new, just well taken care of.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote hoadie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November 27 2018 at 3:47am
what about electrolysis?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rob3Bruce Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November 27 2018 at 5:00am
Hoadie,

I think that might be going a step too far. It'd strip everything to the white and then I'd have to reblue the whole thing. Still have some rust spots that are being stubborn to the 0000 steel wool I got. I might talk to a gun Smith and get a quote. Buy once cry once and so on.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bear43 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November 27 2018 at 6:01am
If you reblue I have had good experiences with cold bluing. I have done a couple firearms over the years with the Birchwood-Casey Perma-blue. The big key is to thoroughly clean the metal. Then when you think you have it clean, clean it all again. Make sure it is completely degreased and spotless. After cold bluing use copious amounts of oil when buffing with steel wool. I mean lots and lots and lots of oil. It makes a huge difference. The only military rifle I have reblued by cold bluing is this 1917 BSA.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote englishman_ca Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November 27 2018 at 6:18am
Shipping runs up the cost of parts considerably. I buy from auction sites and get stuff shipped from all over the world to me here in Ontario. I often pay as much or more for shipping than the part itself.  I keep this cost in mind but my projects are not fiscally sound anyway, when finished my restored rifle can often cost as much as a complete original, that is, IF I could find an original to buy. I write it off to the cost of the enjoyment of my hobby, I never intend to sell the examples in my collection anyway, at least not in the foreseeable future.

The Indians used to paint their rifles for corrosion protection. You could do the same and it would not look out of place. There are several products designed specifically for painting firearms (Gunkote, Duracote, Alumahide). Do a nice job of it unlike some Indian examples which look like that they have been painted with house paint using a broom!

Here is a suggestion. Gather up all the parts that you need for the assembly and clean each piece carefully to avoid stripping any finish. Assemble the rifle with all the parts and then take a look at the completed assembly and then decide on finish. Sometimes when used and mellowed parts get together, the result is quite pleasing. But then again, I prefer examples of rifles that look well used and well maintained over those that look like they just came from a refurb.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Shamu Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November 27 2018 at 6:27am
Blue is a form of rust, so removing one usually means removing the other as well.
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Having said that I'd degrease & soak for a day or two in a product called "Evap-o-rust". Its water based, non etching & even reusable!
https://www.evapo-rust.com/

I'd cap a PVC drainpipe section wide enough & long enough to take the whole thing & immerse it for a day or so in a 1:1 dilution of the stuff, then wash with HOT water & refinish with something like "Cerakote" which mimics the original finish very well.
Don't shoot till you see the whites of their thighs. (Unofficial motto of the Royal Air Force)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rob3Bruce Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November 27 2018 at 6:43am
You have a good point, Englishman. I went in to this knowing I'd cost a good bit. You love something more if you've built it yourself. Actually I'm thinking of getting a NOS bolt body and nose piece so I can stamp it all to match. It would also make it easier to fit headspace and such. I don't plan on selling mine, either.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bear43 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November 27 2018 at 7:00am
Evapo-rust works great. I use that on auto parts all the time.
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