SMLE Front Sight Removal

The sight is held on by a cross pin and has a small key to keep the sight straight.

Thanks so much guys, I will take a crack at this soon.  I received my inner band today, so getting that front sight off is now a priority.  I'll add those two parts to my list of "needed" items.  I've been whittling it down. 

You might end up hearing from me again.  This is a new challenge for me, but I'm having fun.

Thanks again.

David C.

I will definitely keep posting here.  I'm sure I'll need advice on sighting the rifle back in, among other things.  Today, I took a little wood off the stock to fit the receiver and will need to take a little more off.  I'm hoping not to need to use any fiberglass epoxy to get it bedded.  The old stock I took off had been arsenal repaired with two brass pads - quite a bit of wood was removed where the trigger assembly/receiver fits into the stock.  I think I will list this wood on ebay in case anyone wants to "sporterize" their rifle without destroying their wood.  I also finished removing the last of the metal from it and fitting it into the new fore-stock - last piece was the front trigger guard screw sleeve.

I will post pictures of my other three Enfield's as well as this project gun.  I'm guessing that you folks consider the US Model 1917 and Enfield given the P-14...  Would you like me to post them? 

Also, is their a "gallery" section of this site, I haven't seen one yet.

Thanks again.

David C.
in VT, USA

You might want to think twice about that.
A lot of the Aussie coach wood stocks had those added as a protector for the shoulders, more were done by Fultons to regulate the rifles as match guns.

Overlord, like Shamu said, those copper pads were used on Lithgows to reinforce the draws of the coachwood stocks. I would hold on to those. Now, one word of advice on doing the stocking up.... Make sure the draws on the receiver fit TIGHT on the fore-end. That is important. I would recommend looking at this as well, very informative on stocking up in case you are not well versed in it.... http://www.milsurps.com/content.php?r=307-Instructions-for-Armourers-1931-%28Part-2-Small-Arms%29

Sorry for the extra two picture doubles.

Also, the last picture shows how far the new fore-stock fits on.  Not too far to go.. I do wonder if gently tapping with a rubber hammer/soft wood buffer would be an idea?  However, I'm not sure if that would be too tight... if that's even possible.

The two shots below are of my three complete Enfields.

The US Model 1917 I bought at a car show (in the swap area) for $50.  It was sporterized, was missing many parts... They obviously had no idea what they had.  It's number serial number 5xx of the some 2 million that they made in the Eddystone factory.  Pretty nice find!  And, a fun restoration.

In getting the top wood for it, I didn't go crazy trying to stain or re-color it to match the stock - I figured it was best to leave it as it was.  Seems there's far more parts out there for this rifle right now than there was 7 years ago.

The middle rifle is a Mark 1 III* produced in 1918 by Enfield.  It shoots amazingly well - incredibly accurate!  My favorite, by far, to shoot of all my vintage military rifles (I have many non-Enfields as well).  I bought it, with a 1907 16" blade bayonet, for $199.00 at a gun shop.  No import marks on it, either.  A great deal.  This was in 2002, I believe. 

Reading the markings on it, it was used by the Australian Department of Defense during WW2.  It is stamped with a "R, MAU, 6/45" on the butt-stock, as well.  Not sure how it got to the US...

The top rifle is a 1943 No. 4 mk 1/2A - if I have this correct.  It was refinished after the war from a straight No. 4 mk 1 to the newer designation and then stored.  Bought this one for a little over $100.00 from J&G Sales out of Arizona.  Shoots nicely, too.  I've never gone through and "beautified" this rifle - it's still pretty dark from the chemicals it was stored in.  I'm sure J&G didnt' take much effort to really "clean" it, but that's a project for another year.  I have the spike bayonet for this one, of course.

All of the slings are authentic WW2 Production.

If you are curious, or want more pictures, let me know.

Thanks for the encouragement to share and for the advice, etc. 

David C.
in VT, USA

If you have a rubber mallet, then try to tap the fore-end on. Be gentle. If you then look you will find that the tapping leaves witness marks on the wood and will show you were the metal is touching and where you need to relieve or leave it. Also, read the manual in the link I posted if you haven't done so. It is very informative as to where the metal should be touching and where it should not be. The key thing is to go slow and take your time. The fore-end should fit very tight on the receiver draws (the area you have chiseled a little) and at the front of the butt socket. You are doing good there, but you also need to check to see if the barrel is making contact in the channel. There are areas where the barrel should touch and where it should not. Again, the armourer's manual I posted the link to describes that in great detail.