Stubborn extractor screw

Replacing extractor/spring in an Ishapore 7.62 2A1 rifle.


The extractor screw is VERY difficult to remove, though I have backed it out
1/32 inch.

I suspect that the older broken extractor spring may be placing some resistance
on the screw in the extractor slot. Since the screw is fighting me so hard,
I am looking for new suggestions to unscrew it out while I have a worn screw slot.

New parts including screw are headed to me.

If you have a fine jewelers file you can make the slot in the screw head deeper/better as well. 

Thanks all.


The extractor screw is resisting all efforts; It came out 1/32 in,
then seemed to bind up. Have jewelers small files, one of which is best:
it has file edge down, with smooth sides, thus limiting filed portion to screw slot depth while NOT widening the slot's side dimensions.
This requires infinite patience and may need an impact driver. Efforts to remove the spring with dental floss have not met with success.
Frustratingly difficult. Have used a tiny amount of penetrating oil. No joy.
An Enfield riflesmith here is rare -and really good gunsmiths non-existent.
PO Ackley would be nice to have around, or an experienced Ishapore Armorer with a full workbench of specialty tools.

Keep in mind that the spring is a "V" and in the 2A1 the
spring has its terminus base at the extractor screw shaft.

At least looking at from my 2A1 perspective. But you may have
something. The extractor, of course-is no longer among the living-as the "claw"
died in the pressure extraction and separated..

My brass rod may have saved that-by gently backing the damaged cartridge case out at the same time lifting the bolt-maybe-but thats just hindsight.

450 Fuller:

Goos:
You are partially correct-no question.
Excepting-the screw did begin to back out-then hung up.

There is a U-tube segment found in the net showing removal/reinstall
of 2A1 spring/extractor. Author does not recommend use of dental floss but does recommend a pair of small medical SS forceps. BUT, his screw behaves in the normal manner. It must be removed as a first step.

Other recommendations include use of valve grinding compound -the grit of
which helps bind screwdriver head to screw slot. That and penetrating oil from other side.
Impact driver will be next step. The screw must be removed.

Seems pretty risky to mess with this rifle.  Have to agree with Goosic here.  

britrifles wrote: Seems pretty risky to mess with this rifle.  Have to agree with Goosic here.   If you know that your load was an overpressure, hopefully you know what the load was (unless you perhaps mistakenly double charged pistol powder with cast bullets or an unknown error you can't quantify).  Did you pull any bullets from this load to attempt to identify what went wrong? The maximum load on the bolt assuming C.I.P. Peak Piezo chamber pressure for .303 British (52,939 psi) would produce about 8,800 lbs of compressive force on the bolt (assuming no load is taken up by the case). C.I.P Proof Pressure would put about 11,000 lbs on the bolt.   For .308 Win, the loads on the bolt would be 10,500 for C.I.P. Peak Piezo and 13,100 lbs for C.I.P Proof.  That's a lot of load...nearly the weight of 5 Honda Civics sitting on that bolt.  But, there is no telling how much load was applied, if it was indeed an overcharge, to cause damage to the rifle, your load must have been substantially higher than this.