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That Barrel is Tight

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britrifles View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote britrifles Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April 15 2020 at 8:00am
I ordered my that way too, off eBay, a complete kit with receiver wrench and barrel vice.  Said for a No. 4.  And I questioned the seller and told him that the taper did not match the chamber reinforce.  It was way off.  He said that’s how it’s “supposed to be”.  Nonsense.  And all the other inserts were straight walled.  
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WilliamS View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WilliamS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April 15 2020 at 9:39am
Try making some lead bushings. They will crush to fit the taper.  I've had very good luck with those, and they seem to grip a little better than aluminum as well.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Goosic Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April 15 2020 at 9:43am
Auto parts stores  sell lead tire weights.  Fit them in between the flat and the inside curve of the bushing.  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Doco Overboard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April 15 2020 at 4:48pm
You would be surprised how much crud can accumulate in barrel threads and then harden. I often wondered how in the world it gets in there to that extent.
One thing I noticed between US and European rifles is if you look right where the extractor meets the body ring is how the US rifles have a little clearance there that allows the Kroil to do its thing. The British rifles Ive done seem to be very well fit in that respect so when I encounter one that will not budge I let gravity do a little bit of the work to help it creep in there while I'm waiting.
Kroil is pretty good stuff and with sufficient time I have seen the entire barrel stub get saturated but still require a good sharp pull to break then free.
If your rigging wiggles around some or the bench moves it's like a force de-multiplier when you apply leverage. I bet the foot lbs is really only around 40-65 lbs its just getting it to move at the right time. Mass of the bench and wrench helps I think. It-ll go I bet.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Pukka Bundook Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April 15 2020 at 6:25pm
Mine are made of wood. V hard, but they work with the paper wrap on the barrel (For the No 1 Mk 111 and Long Lee.  No 4's a Lot tighter as we know! )
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britrifles View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote britrifles Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April 15 2020 at 7:37pm
Worked on the barrel vice bushing insert.  At least doubled the contact area around the chamber.  This should transfer double the torque.  If it won’t loosen with 300 ftlbs of torque I’m really in trouble.

I took an old junk barrel and wrapped the chamber reinforce with sandpaper, taped at the ends, chucked the muzzle in the drill press and held the bushing down onto the sandpaper.  Took a lot of material off the inner bore to make the proper taper.  It’s now a very good fit.

I’m thinking of pouring melted lead down into the gap between the chamber flat and bushing.  Probably won’t do much but can’t hurt.  Also, fill the other end of the bushing with lead.  Thoughts? 

Meanwhile, the barreled receiver is soaking in Kroil. 







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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Honkytonk Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April 16 2020 at 4:50am
Rather than lead, what about Lock Tite? The kind that needs heat to break (I forget the colour, but it's stout!)?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Honkytonk Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April 16 2020 at 5:43am
Meaning apply L/T, set your clamps, let dry overnight, then try and remove barrel.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Pukka Bundook Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April 16 2020 at 6:58am
I have a feeling lead will be too plastic Simon.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote britrifles Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April 16 2020 at 7:27am
I’m going to give it a go as is, but will let the Kroil soak another day or two.  Lead is very soft, and the gripping forces I’m applying here would be well above plastic strain level of lead.  It’s even deforming the aluminum bushing slightly.  

This insert was not right for the LE, even tho the seller said it was.  It only gave a line contact around the chamber.  I had sanded it some before I tried it, but expect at most I had 1/4 inch wide contact surface.  I now have a full one inch wide contact all around (except of course over the chamber flat).  That’s got to make a big difference.  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Honkytonk Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April 16 2020 at 3:11pm
Best of luck! Keep us posted! Kroil is amazing stuff, but use it liberally. If you do even gain a hair, apply more!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote britrifles Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April 17 2020 at 5:39pm
This barrel is kicking my butt.  After 2 days of soaking in Kroil and getting a much better fit with the barrel vice aluminum bushing, I was still not able to free the barrel.  On the fourth whack with the 4 lb sledge on the end of the receiver wrench I split the 2x6 top on my workbench.  But, that was because I had drilled 3 sets of holes in the same area having to adjust for getting more clearance with the receiver wrench and edge of the bench.  A large crack occurred between the Swiss cheese holes on the third hit, so I had to reorientate 90 deg, and that finished it, loading it across the grain.  

The upshot is the barrel vice held!  

Got a new top plank on the bench now. And I’ll screw down a piece of 3/4 plywood as reinforcement.  I will try the 3 foot  cheater bar first, should give me a 4 foot lever arm and get me close to 800 foot lbs of torque if I put my weight on it.  Surely it will break loose at that torque?


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Honkytonk Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April 17 2020 at 5:51pm
You turning it the right way? "Lefty loosy, right tighty!"Smile
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote britrifles Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April 17 2020 at 6:06pm
Yup, I even looked at the spare barrels I had t make sure they are right hand threads!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Goosic Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April 17 2020 at 6:56pm
Take a propane torch and heat the receiver where the barrel screws into. Just enough to liquify the crud on the threads before trying to loosen the barrel.  Just as a sidenote before you disagree with me on this. I know many a person who before installing a barrel will tin the threads prior to installation. Found that out the hard way when I put a six foot cheater bar on an action wrench and twisted the action in half. As you apply the heat, apply pressure to the wrench back and forth.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote britrifles Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April 18 2020 at 4:27am
Yikes. Did you heat up the wrench?  Or heat the receiver behind the wrench?  
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