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First range day with Lee Enfield No.4

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Zed View Drop Down
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    Posted: January 11 2019 at 8:19am
Yes the artist quality linseed oil is slightly lighter and has less colour; so does not stain the wood as much. At least the stuff I bought here is like that when compared to my standard linseed oil.
It's nice to be important, but it's more important to be nice!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Pukka Bundook Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January 11 2019 at 7:32am
My way to clean wood, is some artist's quality linseed oil, cut with maybe 1/3 turpentine, (pure).
 
Simply apply with the finest steel wool, in the direction of the grain.   Afterwards rub off any remaining oil with a dry cloth. The linseed /turps will lift the dirt, and feed any dry areas of the stock at the same time.
 
Remember, these stocks can get dry, and any areas that absorb the oil, would Also absorb water if out in inclement weather, (or dropped in the creek!)  The oil in the wood is much better than water.  :-)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Honkytonk Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January 11 2019 at 6:18am
I've always had good luck with plain old Windex. Do a small area at a time (say, the butt stock.) I use a fairly course cotton dish rag. Lots of build up on the hand grip area. Once done, the wood may be raised abit. I then use xxxx steel wool or a very fine scotch Brite to polish. You can then add a new coat of linseed (Shamu has a good recipe and procedure). This method works for me. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Shamu Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January 11 2019 at 6:17am
Don't shoot till you see the whites of their thighs. (Unofficial motto of the Royal Air Force)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Donald303 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January 11 2019 at 5:25am
Forgot to ask, but does anybody know of a good wood cleaner? I intend to leave the finish as is but would like to clean as much gunk off the wood parts as I can.  Thanks. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Donald303 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January 11 2019 at 5:17am
Goosic, "England" is stamped on the butt stock collar but haven't seen it yet on the receiver. I will take a closer look. Zed, thank you so much for the heads up on the gauges. I will look around and find some. And thanks for the formulas. They will help a lot.  And the small clamp idea is one that I hadn't thought of but makes perfect sense. I do have a few of those type of clamps and am sure I can notch something up.  But this is why I come to this site. The Enfield owners here are top drawer and very knowledgeable. I would have been lost if not for my friends here.
 This Lee Enfield No.4 is my favorite rifle and I own 4 different kinds. It is my intention to learn all that I can and preserve this piece of history and enjoy it at the range while I still have my wits! Thanks again!  Donald.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Zed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January 10 2019 at 11:30pm
Donald, the only problem with the "punch" method is that it's difficult to control how much you move the sight.
Before you start moving the front blade, measure the distance from the "ear's" to the blade from each side and note the figures. Use a vernier type depth gauge so it's an accurate measurement.
Then you know your point of depart.
Calculate the required adjustment as per the formula in my previous post, using your own measurement's. You can use inches or metric, (but just make sure that all figures are in the same scale)
This way you can exactly measure the change in sight position and get it spot on. If you just tap it across and guess; you'll be using a lot of ammo chasing the POA.

You may be able to adapt a small "G" clamp to push the blade in a controlled manner if you don't have the official tool.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Goosic Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January 10 2019 at 6:28pm
The stampings on the muzzle are .303 2.222" 18tons per □". Out of service stamp for civilian use. I will assume somewhere on the receiver is a stamp that says ENGLAND. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote britrifles Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January 10 2019 at 6:21pm
The last pic shows the front sight dovetail set screw with the head that is an “inverted slot”.  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Donald303 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January 10 2019 at 6:13pm
Britrifles, here are a couple of photos. By looking at them I can see what you mean. I will see if I can get my hands on a driver like the photo above or make my own. Sounds pretty simple. Thanks for the help.
 Donald

 P.S. added another photo with some curious factory markings on the top of the muzzle. Must be specs for the muzzle pressures or something...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote britrifles Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January 10 2019 at 5:43pm
Donald, take a close up pic of the front sight.  All you have to do on the No. 4 rifle is loosen the dovetail set screw, which has a flat head protrusion requiring a slotted tool to loosen (an inverted slot head screw).  The front sight blade is easily moved laterally in its dovetail, no tools necessary to move it.  The blade is interchangeable and are made in increments of 0.015 inches in height.  This allows for zeroing bullet impact at the ranges indicated on the rear sight.  

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Honkytonk Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January 10 2019 at 3:20pm
Nylon punches work well also.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Donald303 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January 10 2019 at 3:12pm
Hey guys, thanks so much for for the replies!! And the sight adjustment methods are just what I was going to ask about next. I have been scouring YouTube and on line sources for just how to make the adjustment so this input is very timely.  One forum I happened upon shows a special clamp like tool that can be bought. But on the same thread an expert armourer said that one simply needs a small brass punch and a small hammer to make the front sight adjustment. Wanted to check in with my friends here to verify that that is ok. I believe I can use a small punch and hammer without mucking up the side of the sight.
 Thanks for the info on the "driver". If I can't find it I will make one. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Shamu Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January 08 2019 at 8:57am
If that rifle has the "reversed screw" locking the front sight for windage your local car parts store has the correct screwdriver for it!
Ask them for a "Schrader valve tool".
https://www.bikeparts.com/images1/pictures/rs/rs3019.jpg
Don't shoot till you see the whites of their thighs. (Unofficial motto of the Royal Air Force)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote britrifles Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January 08 2019 at 7:49am
Donald, your No. 4 has the Mk 1 aperture sight, which is the best of the 4 marks that were made for the No. 4 rifle.  It has 1 MOA (i.e. 1 inch at 100 yards) click elevation adjustments.  The 25 yard zero setting should not be too far off for shooting at 100 yards.  You can get the rifle to regulate to the range settings on the rear sight by finding a front sight of the correct height, but that will change with different loads, so not really necessary.  Taking a 6:00 hold (front sight at the bottom of the target black aiming mark) makes a clearer sight picture for consistent aiming.  You can easily make up a tool for the front sight screw from an old screw driver, grind off the end of it and grind an appropriate width slot for the screw head.    
 
Your extractor spring may be weak not allowing the case to eject prior reaching the ejector screw.  These are pretty cheap from places like Numerich.   
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Zed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January 07 2019 at 11:31pm
Please to hear that you had a good day at the range Donald.
It is quite easy to set the front blade for the windage error. Calculate the required adjustment and drift the blade across.
To calculate the adjustment: Multiply the distance between POA and POI on the target, by the distabce between the front and rear sights. Then divide the result by the distance between the barrel end and the target. Use the same scale for all measurements.

Example: (2" error X 27" sight radius) / 900" = 0.060"
So in this case the front blade would require 60 thousandth's of an inch drift to correct a 2" error at 25 yards (900 inches)
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