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Ros1968 View Drop Down
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    Posted: March 18 2019 at 10:58am
Hi All,

New member here. I picked up a No.1 MkIII* 1917 Enfield Manufactured rifle last week for a modest amount, and I am seeking some advice.

The Receiver, Barrel, Nose Cap and lower front Wood serial number match, but bolt and rear sight does not match. Rear sight is a Windage adjustable version.

Barrel is very good condition with minimal muzzle erosion (I do not have a throat gauge). "ENGLAND" is stamped on Receiver ring at the Barrel, no other markings present.

The wood is worn, and top fore stock is missing the "finger" on both pieces, and the butt stock may not be the original. Curiously to me at least, the lower wood is inletted and has the front volley dial disk present but not the dial hand and the rear peep sight arm is missing but wood is inletted here also.

I have dissembled the rifle, some badly rusted screws (lower front wood) but otherwise is relatively very good condition. The barrel externally has only a spec or two of surface rust. The receiver walls have some minor pitting, but otherwise good. Trigger guard, rear sling bar and front band have minor rust or light pitting.


Overall it appears this rifle was Arsenal repaired (sights elements added removed) and different bolt added sometime after WW1 (guessing here) but not a lot of maintenance if any since.


I am minded to steam and card the current finish and then hot rust blue in WW1 formula the entire metal work. I am doing this to stop existing rust and preserve a good shooter for as many years as I can.

I am unsure about how much to Hot Rust Blue the bolt, can anyone advise as to what the original bolt would have been finished in Bluing versus in the "White"
at date of manufacture.

Thanks

Ros1968
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englishman_ca View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote englishman_ca Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March 19 2019 at 11:00am
Bolt, receiver, barrel bands etc. would be oil blackened. Barrel would be slow rust blued. Nothing would be left in the white.

EDIT; I lie, the sear sometimes, the sight leaf, and the rear nose cap nut fitted inside the fore arm were in the white. 
I see some Lithgow made bolts that look to be in the white, but could well be sporting some kind of self coloured finish. Brit bolts were blackened.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote A square 10 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March 19 2019 at 5:57pm
 not uncommon to have the "fingers" removed they were fragile and often a feld fix ,

we need to see some photos to help much more , 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Shamu Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March 20 2019 at 5:32am
True, but to me they look incomplete without them.
Unfortunately with today's prices it would be expen$ive to fix such a small thing.
Don't shoot till you see the whites of their thighs. (Unofficial motto of the Royal Air Force)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote shiloh Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March 20 2019 at 6:32am
Q. how does one oil blacken steel?
shoot em if you got em
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote englishman_ca Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March 20 2019 at 6:49am



Black black finish that is tough as nails.

It is so easy, you won't believe it!

I heat the metal part in an iron box on a camping stove for a measured amount of time and then quench in used motor oil.

A very simple process, but it takes a bit of practice to get the technique just right. Too cool and nothing much happens except it goes dirty brown like the underside of a frying pan, too hot and a purple tinge will appear.

The part can be cycled through several times until the black is satisfactory. The metal needs to be washed in soap and water and dried to remove all oil before it is put back into the heat, otherwise patchy streaky finish will happen.

And of course surface prep is key as any scratch or fault will show.

I replicate long Lee nose caps and oil blacken as per the originals.


An original nose cap shown with my finished repop.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ros1968 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March 20 2019 at 9:44am
As regards Oil Blackening, what if any concern needs to be considered for the pressure bearing parts, i.e. the receiver and Bolt lugs....would applying the heat necessary for the oil blackening process compromising the heat treatment process done at original manufacture of the receiver and bolt.


Thanks
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote englishman_ca Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March 20 2019 at 10:43am
The metal is not heated enough to reach the critical temperature range. 

Overheating would compromise the heat treatment and tempering, yes.

My technique is into a hot pot with the lid on for exactly five minutes to warm. I wish I could be more scientific and give you a measured temperature. Steel polished in the white turns a straw colour turning brown, so is approx 475F?
They come out of the pot just a smoking hot and sizzle pretty good when dropped into the oil.

I adjust the timings as I go, to raise or lower the temp of the items as needed (items with more mass take longer). I usually get the black that I want in one or two cycles. 

Some finished to match the wear on the project that I am restoring. I can 'touch up' repairs without removing the existing finish. I oil blacken all the screws and pins that I make. It is a handy technique to have in your tool box.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ros1968 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March 20 2019 at 11:07am
Thanks again Englishman_ca

I will take some photos of the Disassembled Rifle tomorrow and post. The entire rifle is stripped currently except for the pin holding on the Magazine Release, and the Pin holding the rear sight base on.

I am going to Hot Blue the Barrell with using the British Formula (http://www.rustblue.com/shop/bluing/rust-blue-british/)and the method as seen on C&R Anvil Episode#13 on a 1916 Spanish Mauser.


Are you saying the gun metal is in the pot without liquid to about 475F and then dropped into the used motor oil?. Is this as durable as bluing in your opinion.


Thanks, Ros1968
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Zed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March 20 2019 at 11:12am
Just don't do it in the kitchen when your wife is in the house!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote englishman_ca Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March 20 2019 at 12:21pm
Ya, wait till she goes out for sure. The kitchen stove and a coffee can of used oil sitting in the sink are the perfect set up. 

Just be careful what you set down on the arborite counter top!


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