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Restoring the woodwork, questions! |
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muffett.2008
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Joined: December 09 2011 Location: scone. nsw Status: Offline Points: 751 |
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Posted: March 04 2013 at 4:19am |
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Yes it would, washing down with water has a tendency to raise the ends of exposed grain, which means sanding which we prefer to avoid.
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Zed
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Posted: March 04 2013 at 4:52am |
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Thank you Muffet.
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It's nice to be important, but it's more important to be nice!
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Shamu
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Posted: March 04 2013 at 6:10am |
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You could use a rag moistened with "denatured Alcohol" (Methylated spirits) as it won't raise the grain by anywhere as near as much. You can gently "buff' (not scrub) with green scotchbrite after it dries out, to bring any raised grain back down.
Theres also a product in the U.S. called a "tick cloth", basically a treated cloth with something "tacky" impregnated into it for just such a purpose, but I have no idea what the equivalent would be there.
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Don't shoot till you see the whites of their thighs. (Unofficial motto of the Royal Air Force)
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Tony
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Posted: March 04 2013 at 7:46pm |
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As shamu says use a scotchbright pad or fine wire wool. Sanding can destroy the markings stamped into the stock.
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Rottie (PitBulls dad.)
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A square 10
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Posted: March 04 2013 at 10:19pm |
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whatever you do preserve that number in the forearm
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Zed
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Posted: March 05 2013 at 2:44am |
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I have preserved all the markings on the wood, I have just given it a gentle go with scotch-brite and fine wire wool to get it smooth, vacuumed the dust off and am ready for the oil. I found several markings that were not visible with the varnish, plus a nice rack number 1 on the front of the forearm wood.
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Zed
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Posted: March 12 2013 at 4:35am |
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I have managed to keep all the original markings including the painted rack number. How many coats would be normal for a good but not too shiny finish? The first coat went on a bit thick and I had to rub off some dried runs at the edges, so I am being more careful now. ![]() ![]() |
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muffett.2008
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Joined: December 09 2011 Location: scone. nsw Status: Offline Points: 751 |
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Posted: March 12 2013 at 5:38am |
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Zed, just keep rubbing it in, it's more a case of how much can the timber soak up.
Linseed oil was used as a longtime preservative, if left in the sun it will always seep to the surface, a quick wipe off and you keep on shooting.
As the finish dries it will form a matt gloss look, a wipe over should make it shine a bit more, that's the level you are trying to achieve. |
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Shamu
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Posted: March 12 2013 at 6:47am |
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BLO, as opposed to plain linseed, is nowhere as "fluid" after application. Once "set" it pretty much stays as-applied. Thats the major difference between the two, the amount of "set". Linseed will bleed out, but BLO will form a semi-solid film, so you need to treat the two differently.
Because BLO actually dries I usually apply it with a few (4~6) cotton balls in a 5" (or so) square of "old well washed no lint left" T-shirt material. Just plonk the cotton balls in the middle of the material, gather up the corners & so on to make a ball with the fabric outside & the cotton balls inside. The cotton balls hold a "working resevoir" of the BLO & the t-shirt is a dispersal filter if you want to call it that. The old adage is: "Once a day for a week, Once a week for a month, Once a month for a year, Once a year for life." Thats 23 coats over the first year & as many top ups as you have years. It starts to look really nice after about the first 10~12 coats, but keep going, the more you add the better it looks. If it gets too shiny you can use a piece of hessian, or burlap (sacking) to dull the shine without removing the surface.
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Don't shoot till you see the whites of their thighs. (Unofficial motto of the Royal Air Force)
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Canuck
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Posted: March 12 2013 at 10:20am |
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dispersal filter...sounds like my kidneys after an evening of beer! Seriously though, your method does sound good, I'll try that next time, Shamu.
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lmao_37
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Joined: September 16 2012 Location: Texas Status: Offline Points: 81 |
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Posted: March 12 2013 at 11:41am |
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Great tips on stock finishing i am going to refinish my after market mosin nagent stock and iam going to follow the instruction on here.
I read the parts about upsetting her indoors and iam guilty to well i have done something that upset my wife really bad. We went to a West Texas country hardware store looking for a washing maching and i came out to the wrath of khain after woulds as she wanted new shiney washing machine well i came out with an AK47. It has cost me a new washing machine and drier a new cooker and redecorate the kitchen and i dont think she has finished yet
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Shamu
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Posted: March 13 2013 at 12:47am |
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I usually upset the wife. If I don't she thinks I'm "Up to something" & she gets upset anyway.
Frequently I use the "Bill Engval Defence", Whut, sweetie? I'm just a guy so I can't do any better. This is all the feelings I'm capable of expressing!
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Don't shoot till you see the whites of their thighs. (Unofficial motto of the Royal Air Force)
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Shamu
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Posted: March 13 2013 at 12:52am |
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Just remember to dispose of the oil soaked materials outside in something non-flammable. Linseed soaked rag can spontaneously combust. Sometimes hours after you throw them out. (Thats one of the things I did to PO, the Mrs once.
You can also get a shiny finish if you intentionally want one, just use a 50/50 mix of linseed oil & she!!ac, (She!!ac???? Errr, umm, spelling checker for naughty words got me again) instead of plain linseed. It used to be called "Old London Oil". Mix in small quantities, use like linseed, but wipe off excess the next morning. They don't want to mix so shake very well to blend before applying.
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Don't shoot till you see the whites of their thighs. (Unofficial motto of the Royal Air Force)
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Zed
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Posted: March 13 2013 at 4:39am |
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Thanks gents for all the info and advice. I will not go too shiny on the finish. The wood has a lot of marks in it, all part of the history and I don't want to make it look too new! Just wanted to get it looking good without the cruddy varnish that was on it. I'll post pic's when I've finished.
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