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Restoring the woodwork, questions! |
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Zed 
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 Topic: Restoring the woodwork, questions!Posted: February 26 2013 at 4:22am |
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Gents, I am going to try and clean up the stock of my No8. It has some sort of varnish on it. I have a few questions regarding the finish.
1: Why does the linseed oil need to be boiled? 2: Should it be applied hot, warm or cold? 3: Is it ok to use a suitable paint stripper to remove the varnish? 4: How long would you need to steam the stock to lift the dents? 5: Should the inner surfaces of wood work be treated with linseed oil as well as the external surfaces? Thanks in advance for any advice, this is my first renovation so want to get it right. Zed. |
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Shamu
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Posted: February 26 2013 at 6:15am |
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OK, I'm going to try to anwer them all in order.
1: Why does the linseed oil need to be boiled? It actually isn't "boiled" as such, but treated with chemicals that let it harden to a more glossy-looking surface finish. "Raw Linseed oil" never really hardens or sets, but it was the original finish, not BLO. BLO looks "nicer" not too shiny like Tung Oil, but not matte like raw linseed. You don't boil or add, its done at the factory before you buy whichever version you prefer. 2: Should it be applied hot, warm or cold? Yes!  Its applied at room temperature, but rubbing the wood during & after application warms it through friction.3: Is it ok to use a suitable paint stripper to remove the varnish? As long as you get something that will ONLY attack the varnish. I don't know what options are available in France, but there's a U.S. Product called "Citri-strip" that is highly thought of, maybe theres a French equivalent or its sold in France? 4: How long would you need to steam the stock to lift the dents? You shouldn't need to steam the whole stock, just the dented spots themselves. The usual trick is pretty much instant, apply damp cloth to area, press onto damp cloth with hot domestic clothes iron hold long enough to get a good *hiss* & *puff* of steam forced down into the wood, lift away iron. Minute or two per dent at the most. Never hold the iron in contact long enough for the cloth to dry out locally, its the steam that does the work. You could practice on an old bit of fence post or something to develop your techniques before risking the stock wood. 5: Should the inner surfaces of wood work be treated with linseed oil as well as the external surfaces? I do, usually diluting the first coat or two with alcohol for faster, deeper penetration, some others use alternatives. |
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Don't shoot till you see the whites of their thighs. (Unofficial motto of the Royal Air Force)
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paddyofurniture
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Joined: December 26 2011 Location: NC Status: Online Points: 7942 |
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Posted: February 26 2013 at 7:12am |
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Shamu,
You are "The Man" of much wood working knowledge! |
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Always looking for military manuals, Dodge M37 items,books on Berlin Germany, old atlases ( before 1946) , military maps of Scotland. English and Canadian gun parts.
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Canuck
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Posted: February 26 2013 at 7:40am |
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Shamu, I like the idea of the steam from a clothing iron on a wet cloth. Some irons have a steam feature that might help the process you described work even nicer. I have used some citrus based cleansers before and they do work well and they smell like lemon.
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White Rhino
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Posted: February 26 2013 at 7:45am |
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Dont use the Wifes Iron Like I did !!!!! Gets you put into the Dog house !!! LOL!! , Go buy a cheap one just for this purpose !!
Or watch the Yard Sales !! ...But I usually Wet the dent then place the wet cloth over it and press the iron onto that spot , repeat if necessary !! And the Linseed oil , I rub it in with an old shirt (cotton) and then let it set for a bit , then wipe off excess , then when I get back a week later I do it again ....untill I get the finish I like .... Rubbing it each time with 00000 steel wool when its dry to touch ....Practice on a peice of wood first and you will see what has to be done !! |
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"White Rhino"
"Everybody's got to believe in something. I believe I'll have another beer." --W. C. Fields |
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Shamu
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Posted: February 26 2013 at 9:18pm |
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The only problem with steam irons is that they produce too much steam in too many places. It tends to steam your fingers as much as the wood
 .Personally I just get the el-cheaponar irons & set the temp to the highest possible setting. I do suggest practicing on scrap wood first though its really easy to "cock" the iron's tip & steam a seam into the wood surface.
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Don't shoot till you see the whites of their thighs. (Unofficial motto of the Royal Air Force)
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hoadie
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Posted: February 26 2013 at 9:50pm |
Just for the record...dont use the bathtub for restore work on your rifles,either.  It gets REALLY expensive!  (Women have NO sense of humour or generosity)  Hoadie |
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Loose wimmen tightened here
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Canuck
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Posted: February 27 2013 at 12:57am |
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I know what you mean by the women getting angry and such. Last year after our deer hunt when we arrived back home at buddies' house and his wife greeted us at the RV storage spot where they keep their trailer we were faced with the ire of a woman. Seems we two hunters had placed our deer on tarps on the floor of the trailer and when she saw that she hit the roof!! NO DEAD DEER IN MY TRAILER said she. She was so angry she told us to clean up the trailer and buddy had to sell it and buy a way more expensive unit as punishment. Now he is in big debt again! I squirrled away before the frying pans started to fly about my head! She will NEVER let us live that down...ever. So, my point is, don't use the wife's iron to take dents out of rifle furniture!
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A square 10
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Posted: February 27 2013 at 1:13am |
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"..I squirrled away before the frying pans started to fly about my head! She will NEVER let us live that down..."
a wise move i think , and i bet she wont ever let you use the trailer for hunting again either ................
shamu covered things quite well so ill only add my oppinion the some dents are better left as moisture tend to raise the grain of the wood in addition to the depression of the dent
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Zed
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Posted: February 27 2013 at 2:55am |
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Thanks Shamu for the advice; especially with regard to the linseed oil. I had vision's of boiling up a pot load in the kitchen. I have a mini steam cleaner that has a adapters that should be ok, if not I'll use the iron!
I'll take some before and after photos and let you know how I get on. |
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It's nice to be important, but it's more important to be nice!
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Shamu
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Posted: February 27 2013 at 6:35am |
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"I had vision's of boiling up a pot load in the kitchen."
If I can save you from the wrath of Mme. Zed when she found you sauteing half a litre of linseed in her omlette pan then I've done a good thing!
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Don't shoot till you see the whites of their thighs. (Unofficial motto of the Royal Air Force)
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hoadie
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Posted: February 27 2013 at 10:32pm |
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Shamu-you shudda let it happen! Afterall,misery LOVES company..& we woulda had a good laugh(@ someone ELSE'S expense for a change!)
Hoadie |
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Loose wimmen tightened here
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Zed
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Posted: February 28 2013 at 3:05am |
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I'd have just thrown some french fries in and said I was cookin'
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It's nice to be important, but it's more important to be nice!
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hoadie
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Posted: February 28 2013 at 4:00am |
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Well...you ARE inn France.Guess that would fly
Hoadie |
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Loose wimmen tightened here
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Shamu
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Posted: February 28 2013 at 6:10am |
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Literally I think.
But it sounds like Zed is quite agile (& practiced) at dodging low flying cast iron pans.
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Don't shoot till you see the whites of their thighs. (Unofficial motto of the Royal Air Force)
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Zed
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Posted: March 04 2013 at 3:20am |
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I got started on the renovation yesterday, everything came apart really well, all the screws are in good condition and nothing jammed. I have stripped the varnish off the wood and steamed out the bigger dents.
Now I need to prep the wood prior to treating with BLO. (I still need to buy the oil). Any good tips on prepping the wood? I was told to rinse the wood with water after any sanding to remove any dust; makes sense, bu  t would an air line not be as good? |
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White Rhino wrote: